R6n350GT

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What about Redline MT-90 (75W-90) GL-4, thats what the guys in the US use. Im using it, gear box is smooth as But thats for MANUAL not Auto

Easier said than done ! Those late night driving where you just creep over un-intentionally. But I am now so much very more aware of my speed. They are reverse parking and front parking sensors Helps me park ! I got them from: http://www.needfultoyz.com/ and there is a awesome support forum at http://www.radardetector.net

NOW FOR THE FRONT, if you have the stock grill then its going to be hard but doable. If you have a mesh grill then good luck coming up with a way to mount them!!!! But you gotta cut your grill for these to fit in. Note: They HAVE to protrude the grill and be centered. You will need a angle grinder, a file and a mini hack saw. I will take a pic of one you need to buy to make it easy. Step 8: Remove the push pins and pull out your grill. This is where you need to mount it (in the white spots) if you dont plan to cover the back then do the red ones also. Step 9: Spend hours cutting This is the left side, you will need to cut this much out This is the right side, you will need to cut this much out You will need to modify the brackets by filing, cutting and angle grinding the edges of the brackets so the 90degree angle is gone. You will need to make sure that the two brackets on the inside go inside the bracket and the outside face out... look at the pic u will see what i mean. You need to do it like this so you get a flat surface to mount the bracket. You will also need to make sure that the cables from the heads face each other NOT LIKE IN THE PIC, i got it wrong and had to change it. From the outside left Top left From the outside right Top right Step 10: Routing the cables On the left of the radiator there is a hole, route them through there Leave a bit of slack so in case you have to take off the grill/bumper you can. Run the cable along the inner hose and through the rubber inside the battery cover. Step 11: Take out the battery, the battery plate, fuse box cover and plastic edge that runs along the windscreen. You will then need to drill, i think i used 1/2" holes through the fire wall. USE A SMALL drill bit first to make sure you are not drilling in the wrong position. It will look like this from the inside Plug the rubber caps in and pull any excess through into the cabin. Put battery and fuse box plus cover back in Step 12: Running the cables from in the cabin to the cpu box You will need to remove the plastic kick cover, the glove box, the side of the center console and then. Pass the cable along the back of the glove box and then behind the plastic trim of the center console. Step 13: Now just connect these 2 cables to the cpu book and follow instructions in the box. Your all done!! Now i have one head left to place somewhere on the front, i am unsure where to put it... Any ideas are welcome

Step 1: Doing the back Fit the dual lock velcro to the back of the brackets or screw them in, unlike the front brackets these need no modification. Since you can only fit one head in the rear mount it so the Blinder label is facing up, i found that to better at sensing things. Mount it directly in between the two licence plate lights. Shot from the back Step 2: Running the blinder in the boot When running the wire there is a plug on the right hand side of the bumper, you will have to take out the lining of the boot to get to it. When pulling out the plug you will have enough room to put the blinder lead plug in the hole and still have room... So you will need to get a little rubber grommet to plug the rest of it up. *Keep the boot plug, you will need this rectangle piece later. Keep some excess in case you need to adjust the sensor. Run it along the edge towards the passenger side of the car and cable tie to existing wires as you go along and then pass through to the back. Step 3: Pass the wire from the inside of the back alongside the rear seat. Step 4 Losen the pillar plastic cover and run the wire from the seat down to the floor. Now pull the door trim off and pull the carpet up a bit and rung the wires along Step 5: Run the wires under the carpet, sort of where the skyline or infiniti symbol is on the floor mat, across to the edge of the center console and up into the area under the BOSE unit. To get access to under the bose unit remove the gear box leaver cover by putting the stick into 4th and pulling up at the top edge of the leather boot. Then spin the cover out the way by disconnecting the cables. You dont have to completely remove it. Step 6: Installing the switch Remove the blank cover near the boot release and install the switch. This is where that plug from the boot comes in, its a perfect fit to go below the switch. Run the Ground wire to the mount near where the under plastic steering wheel cover goes on. Dont know if you guys have this mount on the right like me or on the left since your left hand drive... Then run the mute wire (i dont have one, pretty sure no stock BOSE units do) and then the positive wire which i used the cigarette lighter for. Use a crimp (not the gay ones supplied) and splice the two positive wires together. Continue the remaining plug behind the trim of the center console into the area under the BOSE where you ran the other blinder head cables. Step 7: Mount the led and speaker I didnt take a pic but i mounted the speaker with double sided tape on this metal unit thing, cant remember what it was but its hidden when you put the plastic steering wheel cover back on. The LED i mounted in the edge of the air grill, just pull the vent up a bit and run the wire in between the gill and cigarette cover. Once you do the front you can then attach the head leads, connect all the other leads to the cpu box and push the box in under closest edge of the gear box stick, sort of where the little sliding cover hole is in front of the arm rest.

Ok so after 3 shipments of Halo/ Angel eyes rings i finally found the right ones! 2003 G35 Coupe non projector headlights CCFL Angel Eyes, 106mm / 4.175-inch x2 CCFL Angel Eyes, 94mm / 3.70-inch x2 I got mine from http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/operatic98/ They are the enclosed style ones, not the flimsy 'naked' style ones. Step 1: Remove headlights. Guide can be found here: Step 2: Bake in oven I found a post about oven temps, i followed his guide: http://my350z.com/forum/8257901-post179.html 250F for 10-15mins, turn it down to 225F (107C) and bake the lights for 13mins Step 3: Mounting the halos As you take the headlights apart mount the halos in place with some electrical tape, make sure the chrome part of the halo is at the very bottom of the housing so the wires can be hidden later on. Step 4: Gluing the halos in place What i did was just glue each corner of the halos in and put the lens (not housing) back in the oven so the glue sets faster. The oven was off, just remnant heat. I used Acetic cure silicone {high temp rating clear} as it is what i have at home, but if you have to go buy it, a high temp clear gasket silicone would prob be better. Once you have done each corner and its been in the oven you can take the tape off and fill in the rest of the halo with silicone. Step 5: Running the halo wires One side (cant remember if L or R) both wires will run through near the top adjustment screws so they poke out the back of the housing (when u take the lid off) and the others will run in two separate directions. One in the top left corner and one in the bottom right. This way they cant be seen when you put the lens cover back on the housing. Step 6: Putting the lens and house back together Once you have run the halo wires to the back of the fog light cover, zip lock the ends of the two cables together. For now sit them back inside the housing. Put the fog light covers back on. Sit the lens back on the housing and reheat the oven same as before, put it back in and then once times up, take it out, use hand towels and push the lens back into the housing and hold until it dries. Step 7: Mounting the inverter Once headlights have cooled get some 3M dual lock velcro tape. Place the dual lock tape in the middle of the inverter and leave the opposite side of the tape on so you will be able to feel where you need to stick the other side on the headlight housing, just inside the fog lamps cover. It will look somewhere like this. From the outside it will look like this, now u can see why i ran the halo wires i did. So they connect to the top of the inverter and be push inside the housing and hidden. Step 8: Running the inverter wires The positive and negative wires you can run through the rubber grommet of the fog light cover like so. Step 9: Wiring to the parkers Get some crimps, 4 in total. You will need to cut the negative and positive wires of the parkers, strip them back and then reconnect the 2 ends but add in the halos in the process, neg with neg, pos with pos. Step 10: Put them back on the car ! Test them first!! Then install Left Right When lights are off

As long as u didnt tint the front ones lower than 35% and the rear is factory privacy glass than its stock = not illegal. You just have to prove its stock. My 350GT has rear window and back quarters as stock privacy glass and cop has not pulled me up. As for P plate being not displayed correctly they have you there...

Yeah i am, but why a Thursday night?

Whats ur numberplate MYV35? I pulled up to someone on my R6 one Friday night as i was heading back to the GC.. No i dont think one was started...

Where did u hear the term hv35? Maybe it's referring to the vq35DE vs vq35HR engine??? HR is the newer update with redesigned y pipe? 08 + I think have this engine in it. Don't hold me to that thou!

Finally another 350GT in the Gold coast ! i think i have seen u driving along M1 in the morning from Mudgeeraba onwards?? I have a Pearl white 350GT 6MT Coupe.

dont know if its been said but would like to EDIT previous posts.. Even after time the last post you made becomes un-editable let alone ones above it.. Very annoying.

Great, new forum upgrade but still cant edit previous posts... Single post is just the one post w/wout pics and no other posts Original thread is all posts plus OP Video is a video ... DIY Servicing: Oil & Oil filter change: Single post * Video Power steering: Single post - Original link Battery: Single post - Original link * Before disconnecting the battery, lower both the driver and passenger windows Transmission Oil change: Single post - Original link * Video Clutch Oil change: Single post - Original link * Video Diff Oil change: Single post - Original link * Video Brake Bleeding: Single post * Video Spark plug change: * * * Ait Filter replacement: * Video Radiator fluid replacement: * Video Drive Belt replacement: Single post * Video Other DIY Modifications: * Video links Electrical & Audio: * Video links Heater & Air Con: * Video links Air Bag & Body Exterior/Interior: * Video links Suspension, Brakes and Tires: Video links OEM Accessories Installation Guides: Links Engine Codes: Links Service Manual link group via servicing type Links Mechanics Goldcoast Nerang Goldcoast Mobil Auto Care 5502 2000 $65 for oil filter and oil change (when materials are provided). This is also to check for other items in 30,000k service but price reflects that all checks do not need to be corrected. I called about 6 places and most were $170+ ... Will use this guy (Brett) and report how things went. Also, if you can show your thank by clicking on green + and not making a post (unless it has other DIY or good well priced mechanics that would be great). Can a MOD sticky this? Thanks

Reserved for DIY list with links and shops you have had good dealings with that are well priced.

Well its taken me hours to do this but here for those wanting to self service.. 2 more goals i want for this potential sticky is - DIY link for each thing - I have most, i will put in later - Who in each city; 1. knows the V35, 350Z, 2. does not rape you on price when you provide the materials... Alot of us know how to do it, but need a qualified mech to sign off our extended warranty cards.. So yes you can search, but who has hours to read through the whole forum. I had to, here is what i found. Much easier for people when all info is in one place Fluids: 1 gallon = 4 quarts, 1 quart = .98L Brake fluid: Brand: Penrite SIN 600 (super DOT 4), Motul RBF 600* (DOT 5). Amount: 1 quart, more if you keep getting air in the lines Replace: Every 2 years if normal driving, if track or hard driving then every year (higher humidity = change no longer than a year) * DOT 5 means you CANT mix with old fluid, you have to completely flush out old fluid. Clutch fluid: Brand: Penrite SIN 600, Motul RBF 600 Amount: 1 quart Replace: Same as you break fluid Engine Oil: Brand: Mobil 1 5W-30, Mobil 1 5W-30 EP*, Mobil 1 5W-30 HM**, Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP*** Amount: 5-6 quarts, get 6 to be safe – you will always be able to use it for next change, top up. Replace: Mobil 1 is good for up to 15,000miles/24,000kms but i would do it every 6-9000miles/10-15,000kms *EP = Extended Performance (better protection, longer service interval than standard) **HM = High Mileage Vehicle (for cars with engine 75,000miles/120,000km or more) ***ESP=Emission System Protection (for Euro cars, 2008+ with strict cats regulation) Oil filter: Brand: Nissan OEM or Mobil EP M1-108 Replace: Same time as oil Power Steering Oil: Dexron III Compatible Brand: Mobil ATF or Mobil 1 ATF (can't tell difference with Synthetic so non Mobil 1 is fine) Amount: 1 quart will do 3 flush/top ups. Full system if drained needs 1.5 quarts Replace: No set time frame but once a year, its cheap and prevention is always better than fixing. Gearbox Oil: API GL-4 Brand: Redline MT-90 (75W-90) GL-4 Amount: 4 quarts Replace: If you have owned the car and know you have used good oil then every 30,000miles/48,000kms. Otherwise do it sooner if you dont know the history or you feel problems with transmission. Diff Oil: SVG GL-5 Brand: Redline Gear Oil (75W-90) GL-5 Amount: 1 quart Replace: If you have owned the car and know you have used good oil then every 50,000miles/80,000kms. If you use good synthetic oil (Redline, M1) then it can go longer. Spark Plugs: Brand: NKG Iridium IX - #4469 LFR5AIX-11 Amount: 6x Replace: Every 60,000miles/100,000kms or sooner if you inspect them and they are full of carbon, oil in cylinder, 2mm gap etc.. Battery: 400-420 CCA Brand: Optima deep cycle AGM, any really Replace: When it dies! Or early signs like struggling to start after car sat with ACC and lights on without motor running for only short period of time The above is just advice, info i have pulled from everywhere so it's your own risk by not looking into it more in depth. Cheap places to buy: Oils: http://gllubricants.com/ Spark plugs: http://stores.ebay.com/autodinamics Oils & Sparkplugs: http://www.performan...b.com/index.htm (not cheaper than the 2 above but they have both items.

Thought i would create a new thread that might be a sticky for servicing. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/

Good to know, i am looking for a mechanic in goldcoast that actually knows the V35 and would be able to find that issue straight away without replacing the wrong parts... Thanks for the post!

Looking at the brushes are new ones much bigger? Can i ask why do the whole motor and not just brush kit? Can you PM where you got them. Thanks

Well its all done - until i get new motor or brush kit. I would have thought the actual motor being quite simple that it would be the brushes at fault? You saying Chris that even if i were to replace the brushes that its not good enough? Whats problems come up when brushes are new ? Dont know about first time for passanger door but drivers door took 10mins to get to motor, 10mins to pull open, clean and put back together, 15 mins to finish again inc reset (didnt even really need to do it).. 35mins total not too bad. Here is what my drivers side motor looked like b4 clean Drivers side motor after Passenger side after Also cleaned the contacts which before were so dirty you couldn't see the spaces in between...

My windows is playing up too... Where can i buy in Australia the motor rebuild kit like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350Z-G35-Co...sQ5fAccessories ? Using this guide to fix it http://g35driver.com/forums/body-interior-...el-removal.html Here is reset guide Here are the instructions: 1. With the door open, lift up and hold the window switch until the window is completely closed. * do not use the auto-up function and do not release the switch until the window is completely closed. 2. Get inside the vehicle and close the door. You need to close the door so the door switch is fully depressed. 3. Press and hold the window regulator motor reset switch. While holding the reset switch, press DOWN and HOLD until the window is all the way down. * Do not use the auto close function and do not release the switch until the window is completely open. 4. Release the reset switch. 5. Then lift UP and HOLD the window switch until the window is completely closed. * Do not use the auto close function and do not release the switch until the window is completely closed. 6. Open the door to release the door switch. The window glass should move partially down. Here is a pic of where the button is http://g35driver.com/forums/5349691-post270.html

I have 6MT coupe and with 245 Kumho KU31 on front and 285 on the back, i leave vdc on and the grip in wet is awesome, going through twisty windy roads in rural areas I feel glued to the road even when wet i have pushed to see what i can do and didnt find it wavering at all. These are amazing tires and i guess the massive 285s on the back help. Go KU31s !

Are you saying that Pivot V isnt compatible for V35? It comes up when you select V35 coupe

I have 6MT coupe and with 245 Kumho KU31 on front and 285 on the back, i leave vdc on and the grip in wet is awesome, going through twisty windy roads in rural areas I feel glued to the road even when wet i have pushed to see what i can do and didnt find it wavering at all. These are amazing tires and i guess the massive 285s on the back help. VDC off in the wet and i half accelerate and yeah i go sideways... I leave it on..

Not to highjack thread but what options to the V35 coupe 6MT owners have? http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/index.php?opt...ail&cid=253 = Pivot Speed Meter V What other devices are there? i cant find where to by the HKS delimiter .. Thanks

What about on the goldcoast for servicing? I usually do it all myself but i got third party warranty when i brought the car (anyone know the ins and outs with these warranty things? What can you do yourself and still be covered, what must be done by a mechanic?) THanks