Transpass

I think every car has gear ratios which make it possible to shift down whilst driving in the 3000-3500rpm range - i've never seen a car with more than 3000rpm difference between - let's say - the second and third gear. Please keep in mind, that there are 6 pistons. What i've found (cfm): SR20 - 205-245 stock, up to 275 ported (x4 -> 1100 cfm, example) RB20 - ? stock, up to 240 ported (x6 -> 1440 cfm, look here)

You can't say "this wheel dimension/offset will fit with a xx mm spacer" - has a lot to do with wheel design. Offset is measured at the wheel center line (distance between this line and the flange). E.g. a deep dish wheel (racing type) comes with an offset of +5 measured at the wheel center line (WCL), means there's only 5mm between the brake disc/wheel flange and WCL. Now, if the wheel has a flat shape, it should be impossible to fit a big caliper, if it has a round shape or bulge, then there's (often) enough room. Too much spacer isn't any good for the bearings or braking capability. Edit: 10mm spacers should be ok just wanted to explain for people reading this thread!

Wasn't meant that way - just wanted to clarify that taiwanese doesn't mean bad quality there are a lot of shi*ty parts from China, Taiwan, Indonesia and so on, and there are a lot of shi*ty parts from germany, too it's capitalism: sell something cheap/shabby for big money. Not possible to generalise "country = countries quality". All up to the builder's passion and skill! Sure that Pedders are BC coilovers 1:1?

Most cheap suspension parts come from Taiwan - Teins are from Taiwan, too! Taiwan doesn't mean bad quality, but it means 10 brands getting the same stuff for their suspension components. e.g.: At XYZ you an purchase coilover kits with aluminium and steel lower mount, choose second one and they look exactly like a BC Racing coilover in another color (btw: BC Racing has just changed the color from gold to red anodized). Even if some parts aren't the same, some could be. Just have a look at Koyo radiators, they're made in Indonesia... If you want to know if the coilovers of Pedders and BC Racing use the same valving, then you have to put them on a shock dyno or disassemble the whole thing. Should be a valuable info: some guys with different shocks testing them at a suspension shops shock dyno and posting the graphs right here (hardest and softest setup) - worth a new Thread? With corner weights and shock dyno graphs it's not that difficult to calcute the best spring rate for your application!

you can check the clearance yourself - measure the distance between the brake disc flange and the caliper horizontally and do the same at your wheel/rim. How to do: ...with a right angled square. -> e.g. http://www.akcol.com/modules.php?name=Inde...newlang=english

$700 are a big difference... if they are nearly the same, it would be a lot cheaper to get the BCs revalved instead of buying those Pedders. I talked to a guy at BC Racing one year ago and he told me, that they can do a custom coilover set with custom valving. But you have to know what you want or need (at least a damping curve). It's always better to purchase a custom made coilover set for the specific car. Corner weights differ from car to car and most cheaper sets (like BC Racing, K-Sport (D2), XYZ etc.) aren't up to the task. One question: Which model of the Pedders and which model of the BC Racing coilovers are you talking about?

Everytime the same so many threads without any useful information... if you want to tell him, that RB20 N/A power is a bad idea, why not write ONE reply. No one is interested in reading thousands of replies with the same text/info again and again... and again. Differences in oil pumps of the SR20 and RB20 - take a look: Picture shows the differences of the stock RB26 (top) and the N1 (bottom) pump. N1 = advanced design, not only concerning the housing, but also the cavities of the pump gears (they can be made by wire eroding). RB20 is similar to the RB26 stock design, SR20 looks more like the N1 pump. If you want to upgrade the oil pump of the RB20, you'd have to make one or purchase an external pump like the dry sump ones. Valvetrain: The RB20 has a better valvetrain design when it comes to racing (high revs). Rocker arms (SR20) aren't comparable to directly acutated bucket tappets (RB). Every part in the valvetrain can represent a spring if the revs and therefore velocity and acceleration are high enough - so every rocker arm acts like a hard spring (means: harmonics and maybe cracks) . Furthermore the bucket tappets are rotated by the camshaft to reduce wear! Hydraulics have to be removed from both engine's valvetrains. Variable valvetrains (with variable lift) are very difficult to integrate into a bucket tappet, that's why most cars with VVT use rocker arms. I think Porsche tried BTs and VVT some time ago... But a VVT doesn't matter in typical racing applications - or do you want to drive the car sometimes in the 3000rpm range and then rev the sh*t out of it up to 9000? Bore and stroke: 69.7mm is very short stroked. Don't know why Nissan built such an engine, but when you compare it to the SR20 (86mm) and think about the average piston speed (let's say we limit it to 25m/s) then the RB20 has a lot more rpm and power potential! -> 10800 compared to 8700rpm. Ok, this is only theory, but it's possible and it's important to know. And don't tell me about the squeezed SR20s driving around at drag or drift events... So much for that.

@jogge: I'm sorry, but i can't answer your PM, cause i have to wait til i wrote 10 posts... maybe dumb comments like "cool" or "stunning project" hell - who got that idea? You can send me your Email address or facebook, meinVZ, WKW... and i'll contact you.

@jogge: Don't know the events, you're driving at (when you use it as a daily driver, too), but most Gabat Escorts are driving at Hillclimb races. There's a lot more dynamic weight at the rear because the car is accelerating uphill - and it's accerelating like hell If i were you, i wouldn't go with 50:50 at Hillclimb. A 30:70 setup seems more reasonable to me. It's a lot easier to steer into tight turns with more torque at the rear wheels, too. If you're driving at typical tracks like Nürburgring or Hockenheim (think i read that somewhere in this thread) then a 50:50 setup should be a good option. When using LSDs in front an rear, it won't be much of a loss if you make it 50:50 fixed - or lets say: lock it up. No clutch pack, no wear, no heating and less electronics!

There seems to be a misunderstanding Correct me if i'm wrong: The rear diff is driven directly by the main shaft, so there's not a real "central differential" (CD). If it would be a CD, then the prop shaft to the rear diff would be mounted to the backside of the side housing, opposed to the front drive shaft. Torque split doesn't mean to have different wheel RPM front and rear (as doo doo said). As long as there's any torque split (no torque split means 0:100) front and rear wheels should (simplified) turn at the same speed in normal/perfect driving conditions and you got no wear on the clutch packs. You can change the amount of split torque to the front - by changing the oil pressure in the clutch pack (bell) housing - up to a maximum of 50% (most real CDs are able to manage more than 50% front wheel torque). This also means: It should be impossible to do a front wheel burnout whilst the rear wheels are doin' nothin'. So, with standard ATTESA, the only time the clutch pack can wear out, is when the front and rear wheels are turning at different speeds; this should only happen, when you got more torque at the wheels than grip. Usually the dynamic weight at the front is less than the rear (also with a heavy front mounted engine!) and you won't need a 50:50 torque split - especially when the front diff is the weakest link of the chain. In real life there's wheel slip (~proportional to the torque) all the time and so there's also clutch wear all the time... if you don't set it near 50:50. @doo doo: There are a lot of viscous coupling styles on the market, today. Can't see the big difference - you may have a look at this website. Tranny pic is taken from GTBITZ.com.

So it's exactly the same as a viscous coupling? (-> http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential5.htm) But how's the pump driven/controlled? Electrically, additional clutch or bypass valve? (would be useful to know)

The "bits" you're talking about are metal particles coming FROM the gears - it's like a circle of death. The well known "whining" of a straight cut gearbox is caused by the teeth of the gears knocking and "grinding". Cheaper straight cut gears are made with less precise machinery and so they're prone to wear. Helical cut gears, on the other hand, are very pricy, have more contact area and are often more precise, therefore they can last longer (and some of them can handle more torque than straight cut gears, too). Whining and wear can be reduced by filling more oil into the gearbox (-> lost performance) or buying very precise gears. Semi-helical gears (between helical and straight cut - very small tooth angles) are a compromise between wear/noise and performance, if you don't want to spent a looooot of money! Better oil can also help, something like Motul 300LS (full synthetic) or Motul Gear Competition. And no i'm not a german Motul dealer, though german is correct.

As far as i remember, there's not much of a difference. R33 GTR box has 2 vents at the top (small and black) and a pull type clutch actuation - means the holes for the hydraulic clutch cylinder are behind the opening for the fork/arm. The R32 GTR box is a push type system. You can change the R33 GTR box from pull to push if needed (drill 2 holes in front of the opening for the fork/arm and get them threated M8 or M10 [not sure about that]). Setting the torque split to less than 100% permanently would cause a lot of wear - just like a normal clutch sliding the whole time. Especially under hard racing conditions with such an amount of torque. Another issue: heating up (?) As GTRNUR said: The system wasn't designed for long time AWD. Maybe there's a way to change the clutch packs to a longer lasting material or to put a complete new diff into the existing housing.