PaulosECR33

my gt3082 didnt seem to have a restrictor, its genuine but i have the restrictor in the AN fitting i fitted on the turbo to connect the oil line, can you post up a pic of the garrett restrictor as i am probably wrong and it is there lol just to make sure

i figured that the intercooler would just get crushed too but apparently its all about the actual length, which i think is really disregarding the safety of the car anyway as like you said if the structure of all the supporting frame and chassis is not touched then its just as safe as factory, i have heard the exact same thing and have a funny story about defects on brand new cars (well i think its funny), one of the guys at work had a brand spanking stato (2003 so a lil while ago), was pulled over and was a smart ass to the jacks, in the end they defected it cos its indicators flashed to fast (mind you he reckons this was one week after picking it up) which just shows that no matter what we do or dont do to our cars as performance car enthusiests (not that a stato is "performance") no matter what car, we cant win . when i cut the hole for my intercooler piping i got 1/2 steel rod, used an oxy to give it its shape and welded it on the outside of the engine bay n then painted it to look pretty, it might be overkill with 1/2 steel but it did the job, have been lucky enough so far i have not had to open my bonnet when pulled over but when the time comes im confident that i would get a roadworthy (once i get all the other s*^t out) and hopefully the info my engineer friend gave me has not reached the dude doing the roadworthy lol can anyone verify about the crush point? i would like to know

injectors and tunable ecu

why spend all that money and run 10psi, what a waste. its about air flow dude a bigger turbo can move way more air, and even if it was about spool time the stock turbo would spool faster than a to4z anyway

+1 good jap 18s would probably cost more than the crap he would buy anyway like mine.. (drools)

i didnt know where to post this but its about panels i guess so here we go lol., an Auto engineer who visits my work leads me to believe that on an r33 gts-t, whatever series a hole cut for an fmic is legal as long as it does not go through chassis rails or structural support, it is actually the crush point of the car that changes with the adition of the intercooler now sitting a further 4 - 5 inches out in front, from the standard ac condensor/electric fan. technically making the car longer. This changes where the air bag impact sensor should be placed in order to keep to ADR(just to keep things simple), and hense makes the car unroadworthy. this sounds fair enough to me as hes the engineer and im the mechanic lol and i can so truth in that. my question is would a gtr front end conversion, (reo,, guards blah blah) be able to be used in getting engineered on obviously a gts-t import/build plate? or do you simply have to put the impact senser in a position that keeps to front of the car the same distance from it as standard i am just interested to know as i have seen and spoken to heaps of people that seem to think the hole is the problem, which i doubt it is. what other ways are there to get around this as this is the opinion of one engineer and im sure opinions will differ last question is probably a stupid one, if the statement about the cooler is true then all a roadworthy would require is the standard intercooler reinstalled, the hole does not matter, right? what do you think

i did mine at work a while back, mind you we have hoists n 80ton press and stuff making it a lot easier and it was about 4 hours, if you can someone with a hoist and press to help you, ull be laughing it makes it a breeze for removal and installation and you can sit the subframe on stands to strip it, new bushes do make a huge difference too

will do so ill check on pay day lol, i work in laverton so am very close

oh man i hope these are still for sale when i get paid next week

i did the same but i had the return hose off and had a little plastic cup under the turbo to be positive that it had oil in it. im sure it oright to use that stuff isnt only like $20.

stock injectors would not let you produce that much power.

you can get the turbosmart comp gate from the states for $315 and sometimes if your lucky one of the sellers has a free worldwide postage thing going on.

cheers i understand the manifold may be overkill but did not think a standard motor would respond as well to a larger housing, i will have to have a further look into it thanks mate

hey every one i have been looking a while now and would like some opinions. i am looking for an external wastegate to suit the setup im putting together on my r33 atm. setup consists of: standard rb25 with replaced head gasket and stud kit. 6 boost external gate manifold, gt3082 with a .63 rear housing, plazmaman plenum, wolf v500 (afm removed), 750 cc injectors (may go e85 later on) surge tank with 044, exhaust, intake and fmic as always lol, a turbosmartkompact plumback Bov. i think they are all the mods related to the topic. i am pretty keen on the new comp gate 40mm wastegate from turbosmart, would it be suitable with my setup or if not what should i look for i am planning on having it run at 18 psi. what are your thoughts?

you really lost traction in "every gear"?

if brembos were fitting front and rear would he have to change master cyl to get the full benefits or are they the same?

welcome dude, project section has heaps of great tips from other ppls buildups, great for motivation too when the bank is empty lol

i think you are going to be disapointed mate, i had 174rwkw with a trust fmic, high flow cat a 3" cat back on 11 or 12 psi tuned on standard ecu, and im sure heaps of ppl will agree that the first basic mods are quite important for later and they can cost alot more than 1K, and i honestly felt that a pod filter made absolutly no difference compared to a good panel in standard air box. so at least your getting a panel filter (fair enough about the lock bar)

are you just getting that cos it looks awesome? (note i am NOT questioning the quality) 6boost was $1250 shipped in under 2 weeks and they look pretty good too... if you do have problems it would be much easier for you to work with kyle than with someone in the us

you just got a product a price and a rough fitment guide and you want something else. what could you get to give you what you want for cheaper than $15

am interested in geting some adaptors aslo

i must ask what advantages do you actually find on a dedicated street driven, is the only reason you have them because you like a hard ride? or is it just so you can change the height? im know heaps of cars out there are daily cars with coilovers but i cant justify spending 2k (for GOOD) adjustables when the way you drive on the street will never require them. i have put the money i could have spent of adjustable coilovers into sway bars, strut bars, heaps of new bushes, giving me some mean camber and caster and rigidity. i would do the same again. how ever each to their own

why do you need a hicas lock bar, why spend money mucking around with that when your focusing on your "budget" 190rwkw goal?

i did and his answer was depends on how busy he is, then said possibly 2 to 3 weeks, all im asking for is how long its taken for others to get theirs

nah its a pretty common one i would assume, top mount external gate rb25 t3. either way about 1 month to 6 weeks sounds fair enough, heaps of other stuff to do while i wait.