PaulosECR33

thanks for the replies im not fussed with how long it takes, just wondering as i just put a deposit on one.. cant wait.

hey guys just a quick one for anyone who has a 6 boost manifold, about how long did it take to receive it after you ordered and left deposit

had same problem with a split dump, put back the origional, had same problem, put on a aftermarket bellmounth, same same, opened up the hole big as possible, fixed, blew it up a day later

yeh plug the unused vacuum line. next remove one of the breather hoses from the cam cover and plug that off aswell, then take the hose from the catch cat to the intake inbetween the turbo and your afm (on the vacuum side). if you dont want to do that just put a breather filter on it, this will stop your crankcase from pressurising, you should also get a dump pipe and plug your o2 sensor in so your ecu knows how much fuel to squirt

i know where ever you go its the same but i hate it when all someone does is sell their product with no regard for your budget or anything, i guess its business but its still annoying, i am lost when it comes to this and this topic has already helped me heaps, very happy to read that nistune is capable or supporting quite big power

LachlanW i reckon it looks like the end of an oxy torch lol. let us know how you go as i want to know how hard it is to change this (IE in car or engine out) good luck with it i would get squirters to suit your block

your catch can is wrong, you only need on line coming from the rocker cover to the catch can. then the other line is up to you it can either be vented to atmosphere (just put a filter on the hose fitting) OR you can plum it back into the intake, as most factory setups have the way you have it is causing the crankcase to pressurise and force oil out the weakest link. i had a mate who did the exact same thing, it didnt do any damage but blew HEAPS of smoke and idled high, first thing is to fix that up the green line is where your black hose should go should you choose to return it, if not then leave it off, and make sure u black of the unused fitting from the rocker cover. once you have done this let it run adn the blue smoke/ oil spitting should clear, it will take ages though, i cant see anything else wrong good job with it, if any m ore problems let me know and we can start looking at other things it could be but for now try the catch can hoses

thanks for the advice the reason i went for the .63 was that i am leaving the limiter as is and am aiming for 280 - 300 rwkw with supporting mods and a good tune. From the reseach i have done the .63 will give good response while the motor is unopened, any advice would be great. i can still change the order as it is going through my work the other options i have is .82 and 1.06 which obviously the 1.06 is way to big.

my mistake guys i dont want to argue, i just thought they need longer.. learn something every day

i know we dont agree to breaking the law on this forum and all that but i would risk it, i did for two years, stupid now i look back at it (having a VK 308 with a holley sticking out the bonnet then to my r33) and pure luck that i was not stripped of my licence, but watever, why did you even buy it if you DONT WANT to even use it as it was built, i dont think there is any downgrade threads here either so good luck

your car will be fine but it will kill you to have it sitting there

i agree, light with high diff ratio is the way to go if you want that feeling of psycho acceleration.

they are pretty easy to remove and strip, all the engine builders would need is the long motor that would save a heap of labor costs

i wouldn't start thrashing my new money pit of an engine after a thousand ks but hey thats me maybe im soft lol i give them a lil longer, have personally seen a brand new 1000km run in engine destroy itself from bearing failure, (although it was a neanderthal 5l) its run in oil was a little too thin for the thrashing it was getting..

thats awesome that is pretty much the exact same setup im in the process of building , but in r33, i would much rather a 240. i went a .63 rear housing on the 30/40 as i am looking for responce in the long run

less than 1000kms its not even run in, what oil did you have in it when you were revving it that high?

there will be a thrust bearing on the main journal, this is what controls your end float it sorta looks like a normal bearing how ever it has walls on the side

hey guys im wondering if anyone knows where to get center caps for rays CE28n's, import monster has not got any in for ages, in bronze

as you can see this type has the screw on the back

that style (the newer one) is not adjustable and works of pressures, if you have lubed up the seat and the valve moves freely now take it for a drive and see what you think, if not then im sorry i was thinking you had the other type. sorry again and good luck

it wont be loud if your just free revving it as no load on motor = not much boost when free rev. take it for a spin, even take a spanner and adjust it on the road, until you are happy with it, it was said before and im sure you know now you have rebuild it they are pretty simple so no much can go wrong, im pretty sure that if the adjusting screw is out then it causes more surge and if its screwd in then you will have less of a surge but dont take my word for it it has been a long time since i have adjusted mine, good luck

the flutter sound is surge, running no blow of valve causes this, just undo the vacuum line to the stock bov and block it, mind you it will be a quiet flutter, alloy intake pipes, fmic with long piping etc increase the sound. i would not recommend it though it is not good for your turbo

and if its getting stuck or feels like its binding up it wouldnt hurt to lube up the stem seal and the seat,

they are meant to work in two stages but 9psi should be enough to open it fully, is the signal line going to it coming from your manifold (after the throttle body)

i had the exact same problem with the split one, boost creep and shitty welds lol