PaulosECR33

the screw on the back of it, loosen the lock nut and then adjust that, mine was way tight and pretty much surged all the time, also your length of intercooler piping and may make a difference and i also found that where my wastegate actuator line was coming from made a difference EG standard spot, big surge so i drilled and tapped into the boost pipe right after the turbo and it surged less

if your running heaps of boost, then the rubber intake pipe from the afm to the turbo can collapse in on itself from the vacuum

the grommet you can use is one the right hand side of the accelerator pedal and the bonnet release cable goes through it, just peel back the sound deadener and then put it back once the line is fed, then in the engine bay use some pointy nose pliers to grab it. the hole is pretty much in between the firewall and the drivers side tower, oval shape hole. another thing i reckon looks good if you mount your gauge up on the dash is running the vac/boost line through the dash via a small hole. ill post a photo tomorrow, looks pretty neat and you can do the same with oil pressure gauge.

if you go just jap dont get a stainless one they are crap and the welds crack, even though you get a 12 month warranty its just not what you want to see after a month (personal experiance) i think they still sell a mild steel one

hey mate i think Neo injectors and Z33 are interchangable http://www.sardracing.com/products/Injectors.htm there is a list at the bottom of the site showing the compatibilaty maybe give them the part numbers for the Rb25 neo and see if they are the same?? hope it help

point being if you want to keep changing it when it cracks and new gaskets and studs(maybe if your unlucky), i did change it over once then removed it for a different one

do you have the ventilationn plummed up right. if your motor was N/A origionally maybe there might be a problem with the motor pressurising under boost cos there is no breather or (like factory setup) return to intake from the rocker cover. this could/might cause your symptoms.

i wish vic had more drift days, i mean there are a few but when you rock up to a track day and the first sign of oversteer gets you thrown off the track, cmon.

Turbo opens/on/operates all the time, when you see boost all depends on the Amount of Throttle and the amount of Load on the motor (In gear, not free revving) this will change though and you can add the size of your fuels system, intake, turbo, exhaust blah blah..

i had one of these for r33 and the welds on the outslet flange cracked within 2 weeks.

fuel cut?

this is a bit off electronic side of the topic but i had major problems with boost creep on my stock turbo, only saw it in 3rd and 4th gear at full noise. i had the boost set to 10psi but i would see it creep up to 15 at about 5000rpm. it ended up being my wastegate. the shaft for the wastegate flap was binding up on the exhaust housing, causing it to not open fully. i have since gone onto bigger things for the car so i never tried to fix it but I'm just putting it out there. A few other guys i know have had this problem to.