PaulosECR33

when you pulled your plugs out are u sure it was oil and not fuel... cos if you say its running quite rich and missing you could have fouled plugs +1 on getting new plugs

well i found my radiator bung lol. finished my exhast and drove it.. had problems with idle. all ok now i have pretty much finished for this year all i need now is my ecu. got a wideband and knock monitor ready to plug in once i start tuning...... fuel system connected, new injectors in i moved the engine loom to underneath the inlet manifold and it looks much neater. also painted the rocker covers & coil cover gloss black.. when lowering the old girl the found the front left and rear left shocks to be stuffed, so i went nuts and got some tein super streets. from teh limited driving i have done thus far im amazed at how smooth these coilovers are, of course tehy are on their softest setting atm... oh yeh i have to roll my guards too so i can get some stnace eventually.. im sure next year will bring more moments of being bankrupt but thats next year, i just want it driving and tuned this year.. NEARLY THERE here is one of where it all started in my lonely little rented garage.. now here it is as of yesterday. am very pleased with how its turned out so far Painted up rocker covers and sort of cleaned up engine bay im sure everybody knows who these two chums are. they are going to be waving bye bye to1 lots of cars in the future hopefully lol. i asume mostly australian cars with american engines ( i can say that i have a maloo ) the height is nice but once i roll the rear guards and pull the front inner guard covers out ill drop it.. but for now im happy with the height

feel for you man how is the bore of the cyl that dropped valve,i cant tell in pics that well is the R/H side of the bore scored of just lines from oil?

nice wheels if you want stance and ur car is not a gtr these would be good with 20 25mm spacers and roll guards and moar low... good luck with sale

if you were in melbourne and supplied parts i would do them for $200 they are SUPER common problem on hino trucks and we get heaps where i work

if you were in melbourne they would be sold..to me.... shattered

well they dont fit most of our cars (we mostly have 4 or 5 x 114.3) and the offset is also no good..

that is what i blocked off to stop the hunting so me thinks this is it once i got round to it i put afm in cooler piping just before throttle body and is fixed.. waiting for vipec, not driving as afm is duct taped to throttle body and lovely cut & shut extension wiring for afm atm thanks for ur help peeps.

hanaldo... my problem is only on idle/decel so its possible but im going to wait till i get my vipec and tune around it.yes this is my next step to put a tunable ecu on it and i have come to realise this could/probably will help solve my issue and seeing as though i am planning on doing it anyway ill just wait till then. i see how the bov/bypass valve can cause it as well but like i said before i think ill just wait for the computer now afm is standard and i have tried another and no difference, the vipec has a map sensor so i wont have any reversions problems or any other possible afm related issues. craved... injectors and fpr are standard for the time being i have some 740's to put in ad i have a surge tank with 044 i just need to hook up for when i get the ecu and im planning on keeping the fuel pressure standard as i doubt ill need higher at the power level im aiming for... thanks for the replies guys supporting mods are front mount intercooler and exhaust and thats bout it at the moment

i dont kno how it could be the BOV cos i dont have one. i havent put the bypass valve on as i said in a previous post its flange is to large to mount in a spot where it will actually work unless i put standard plenum + intake pipes, exhaust manifold ( and studs as they are shorter......) etc... i also asked if anyone knew if turbosmart compact plumbacks act as a bypass valve on idle cos i can fit one of them and i got no answer and i cannot find much other info other than.. "superior flow, oem fitment, handles more pressure and so on".. so im going to keep looking for those answers and not jump into reversing half of the stuff i have changed until i kno there is no other alternative.. if im wasting your time then dont reply im still just trying to figure out all my optiions

so picked it up tonights and did what hanaldo said and it does not hunt any more but still over fuels like crazy on idle.. what i have noticed is that this happens at all temperatures unlike the hunting. start the car and its fine. but as soon as you touch the throttle once the revs settle the engine idles at about 550 and then starts pumping fuel and black some out the exhaust... i am starting to think that i will be able to sort this with the new ecu but i would really like to sort everything else out before plugging a new ecu & fitting big injectors and then have to set everything up properly.. would be nice to kno it was running sweet before i did this.. any ideas on what this could be its not bov so plz no more on that im thinking more along the lines of sensors but not really sure.. i kno its stanard ecu so if no1 has experianced this i wil just put the new one in and tune around this problem... thanks

this is what it does exactly. where is the valve located on an r33 and where does the vac hose go after this cold idle control valve coil.. do u have a pic by any chance as i have replaced heaps of vac lines and must have missed this.. have not had a chance to look at bov yet so ill try this first.. am still a little skeptical on bov as there are heaps of cars out there that dont have a bov and also dont have this problems

ok new question is there an aftermarket "BYPASS VALVE" which i can weld or have plumped into my intercooler piping that WILL leak back into my intake when hooked up to recirculate? standard one's flange is huge.. hopefully the turbosmart kompact recirc series will be sufficient they some in a 34mm barbed fitting inlet & outlet and would be the best fit for my engine bay......

dude that makes no sence i have more air now as the there is no leakage back to the intake which may be causing my hunt... and like rob82 said there is no metering cos its all after the afm. your probably right about disconnecting a vac hose in the intercooler piping before the throttle body to relieve pressure but then this "leak" is not controlled and i will have another problem

dont kno if n/a models still have holes cut under the air box (same chassis but never looked at an n/a one) but why not just make your own going through these two holes. completely away from your ingine and use high flow panel in air box with holes cut in bottom and pipes through these holes out infront of the sront passenger wheel

only when hot that is what i was thinking ill have to hook up some kind of relief valve to see if it helps so i asume the running rich and looking like its in RnR is all due to to much air & system trying to correct this? also noticed today having another close look that the solinoid for idle control vavle energises at the highest rpm when hunting so i think your onto something its getting to much air and not needing it but why does this only happen when its hot and why dont all the other cars with wank valves such as ssqv (whhich apparently doesntt leak) have hunting problems thanks for your help

so pretty much what ur saying is if i put a one way valve that leaks from the intercooler piping, into the turbo inlet on idle.. and closes under boost my hunting issue will be solved?? sorry if i come accross rude i just dont see how a bov would be the cause of this.......

i know it leaks at idle.. but like i just said its completely mechanical no sensors or metering of air goes on in the bov system that i can see or have heard of on rb25s and if its not there its not leaking and how can an ecu meter this when in stock for the bov return is plumbed back in in after the afm anyways so its like this circuit of useless unmetered air that is just there leaking between your boost pipes and your intake duct... how can the ecu be tuned to this? or does this help equalize inlet pressures at idle or something... and i dont have any bov, or plumbing or holes or anything so its pretty much like blocking it off anyway

& there is no way around this? i cant see how a completely mechanical valve that leaks back into the intake anyway would cause an issue if removed and sealed completely... does afm still trip? i asumed that if there was no blow off valve there would be no leakage @ idle and there for no need for plumb back and no problems.. under boost & with reversion i understand exactly why its good to have a plumb back but i didnt think it would be an issue at idle. looks like ill have to wait till my vipec gets here to drive it again,,,, thanks anyways

i thought as much and i understand what u mean.. just hoping to find a bandaid fix for a week or 2 while i get some funds... only thing is that it drive great no issues at all.. just when it idling

also forgot to mention that when you start it it idles fine for about 15 seconds then starts hunting... which did lead me to believe that it was aac but cleaning it did not change anthing ( unless a solinoid has sh*t itself)

oright car drove more than 200m for first time in 18 months today i drove from essendon to gisbourne & back and drives great..how ever it idles sh*t.. looked at some threads but could not find anything i have not checked.... problems is> Hunts between 500 & 1500 & blows heaps of smoke.. runs so rich that gets a miss & takes 15 minutes or so of normal driving before you can get on boost without it spluttering.. however once it has cleared up everything is sweet & goes good. sounds to me like a vac leak..... I have checked> For any vacume leaks & found none, checked all hoses & clamps all is ok no audible leaks, sprayed brake cleaner around hoses & plenum to see if revs jumped & found nothing Blocked of individual vacume hoses & found nothing. Plugged in a new afm i had lying around & does not change anything.. Disconnected battery for 20 mins just as a hunch to see if anything reset.. Removed idle control valve AGAIN and cleaned out everything seems normal except one thing. there is a port in the aac valve that is not on the plazmaman plenum i have its only very small and is only plumbed back into the main gallery anyway but not sure if it could affect it... mods are plazmaman plenum, new intercooler piping with front mount, 6boost high mount & gt30 with a turbosmart wastegate and all the other spporting mods, plugs are gapped to .8 & still has AFM on intake side or turbo. does not have a blow off valve of any any sort (so no leaks there) & does not stall at the lights when stopping. car is on 7psi on stock ecu (i know ill get the old get new ecu & tune which i am saving for at the moment) i read on one thread about it being an 02 sensor but i can not see how... any help would be great

but u need an anchor to be heavy so you have get a 3 inch mild steel exhaust with pipe wall thicknoess of 5mm just to get a bit of extra weight... i heard the thicker the pipe, the more potential for power gains. trust me noobs

just shim it and safe up for a mech until the shimmed one goes.... its like $20 and 1/2 o 1 day job.... dont waste ur money

u could say a manual is quicker than an auto.. and vice versa there are so many variables though... i bet you a car equiped with a quafie or holinger sequential box would destroy lots of automatic cars but then a car with a powerglide & 5k stall fall manual blah blah blah all the crap would destroy most normal manuals on the street but that is extrene ends of the scale and the truth is not many ppl have them.. i would have to say out off the modified street car scene in aus the autos would be quicker in a drag race ( will probably get in trouble for saying that).. but i also have to say that drag racing on the st doesnt mean Sh*t ... i kno what id prefer... ill take Black spur, arthurs seat or great ocean rd in my quafie over a hectic drag at princess highway ANY DAY. oh yeh stop bitching and look at 300zx autos