Commsman

So, how does intake length impact performance? More length (plus corners) would cause the air to take a few extra milliseconds to reach the turbo - that can't really be a big deal, or can it? The reason I bring it up is that my intake would be a foot shorter....

Looking good Ryan. It's 3" pipe till it reaches the turbo, right?

Sometimes orphans make better kids ...

Looks like a bargain - nice brakes, black leather, exhaust. Anything else can be done with the money saved. Good luck.

That's a good price on the listing you linked Ryan. Are they the right heat range though? The ones I bought said 1 step colder than standard for FI applications. I don't know where 'Heat Range 6' fits in the greater scheme of things. Oh, & I was going to post a pic of one of my plugs. It was obviously the cause of the non firing cylinder I had a month ago (the electrode was missing).

I know Dan - he's a cool guy.

Nice effort Alex. That last pic looks like mine 90% of the time (in garage with bonnet up ).

Funny, a while ago their dyno guy said he has tuned 'heaps of M35's'. I was skeptical because their isn't anything to tune unless you have some sort of piggback or A/M ECU - & there really isn't that many cars like that up there afaik. Then he convinced me he didn't know what he was talking about when, in response to my answer to "what is my target boost setting?" (18psi), he says "that's 10psi above factory - you'll never get there with the standard turbo". I suspect he had his C34 goggles on.

What sort of inspection? I've had a Blitz system on my car for a while & pass rego inspection each year. I'm pretty sure the 'inspection station' doesn't give it a second look when checking for roadworthyness (?). It is pretty quiet after all.

Nice work mate

I look forward to the inside story Alex.

According to my Google search, a S2 C34 with RB25DET came with 173Kw at the engine. 12 years later it has 155awKw - only 18Kw loss thru the drivetrain. Is that possible, even with a manual transmission? I suspect some Walt Disney optimism at play, lol. Nice car tho. I like them in yellow.

Yeah mate, that guide will help get the door apart. They are sooks tho, saying you need a 2nd person to hold it while the other unplugs the wires - bah!

We've been discussing this build. Take some pics for us if you can. Interesting time starting for you by the sounds of it

Nope. Still not authorised

The main SRS box is under the centre console, but there is the passenger side airbag connector above the glove box. Maybe the stereo leads were wound around the airbag cable?

Yeah, so many people it's not funny.

1. The wiring would go down one side or the other, but by the time you chase it back from the lights you'd have already had it connected. Unless someone else happens to know exact colour/s etc 2. From what I've read it's part of CAN-Bus so can't just be 'cut', unfortunately. 3. I'd go lower down for better visual appearance (IMO) & ease of access for wiring. Post some pics when done, yeah?

Just a small panel mount one will do. Jaycar sell plenty for <$10. Like this one for $4.95: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SY4061 Earthing C1 only locks the screen to the tuner Aux input. The fuel consumption info is still happening in the background & is viewable as soon as you remove the earth. Yeah, that would be easier for you - if you already have the camera cabled. (See, I would have run the wire from the back at the same time as putting in the camera ) You could always look in the A/T manual... Tell you what; you get the package for me in the post & I'll give you the answer, lol.

The bold is the giveaway that it's not me, lol. I had a look at DCDC's M35 a while ago. There was nothing to see so didn't take any pics. It had been stripped a fair bit, but the way it was jammed in amongst a heap of other cars I could tell it was on the backburner (at least for the workshop). Maybe things have changed by now.

The choice of champions!

Nice work Ryan . One of the best DIY's I've read - informative & entertaining all rolled into one. Even the pictures were in focus. What more could anyone want (other than you doing the work for us )? Another thing to add to the long todo list..

Let's say that pic is when car is in reverse & the relay has operated. In normal condition the switches will be down so DVD is sent thru to tuner.

You may need one like this so you can separate the inner & outer conductors. Just keep them as short as possible so the shielding is still effective. I used another relay (also switched by reverse lights) to put an earth on terminal C1 in the tuner. It doesn't matter what is displayed on the screen, it will force it over to display the reverse camera & then switch back again when finished. (I suppose if you could find a triple throw relay you could do everything with the one device.) To bypass the in-motion cut out, I extended another wire from C1 to earth via a switch at the front. When operated (& not in reverse) you use your remote to watch TV or switch to DVD, playstation or whatever is on your aux input. The Xanavi guys say that it can be done in the programming. So if you haven't done the English conversion (& were intending to have it done), you could ask them about it I don't have any leads made up, but can make one if you want. They're pretty straight forward if you have an old computer lying around. Cheers, Leon.

Yes, V35 is the same. Use reverse lights to activate the relay. Break the yellow video cable & switch those wires (may need double pole relay) between reverse cam & dvd player - the common side goes into the TV tuner. Sound will play as usual with just the video switching away from dvd & displaying reverse camera whilever reverse lights are on. Easy