Commsman

Sorry Iain, you have to own a Stagea to be allowed to post a non Stagea VAG really know how to make DSG g'boxes. The one in the missus' A3 is outstanding. I even forgive its funny 'lurching' at really slow speeds because the rest is excellent. Does yours do that or did they fix that in later models?

Welcome Feel free to post some pics sometime. Adelaide guys organise some really good cruises, from what I've seen. They always get a good turnout.

I vote PCV is allowing boosted air back into your engine, pressure builds in crankcase & pops the dipstick. An inline check valve like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-8-10mm-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Diesel-Gas-Liquid-Air-One-Way-Non-Return-/221127175541?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item337c34ed75 could be a lot cheaper than replacing the PCV & will do the same job. If size is wrong for your hose check other items for sale.

I read the thread title & thought your issue was with a small fuel pump & that maybe a larger fuel pump would fix it. Then I read you already had a 255L Wallbro.. mmm, I get it. Reminds me of the time the radio lost & found announced: "Lost, a large brown lady's handbag". I always wondered that had they'd given a description of the handbag, then the large brown lady would stand a better chance of getting it back.

Crank angle sensor now has two gongs - do this ^^ & let us know the result.

I think he is saying that it only starts to happen at full throttle, but after it happens he can then get it to occur again at less than full throttle. I've had this exact same thing happen to mine - hit AFM cut during launch & then under very mild acceleration it would cut out again, & again. Switch off reset would fix the low accel problem, but main fault (AFM voltage above specs) still there. I fixed mine by adjusting the voltage. This shouldn't happen unless he has a big intake or maybe a AFM on the way out??

What mods, if any? Stock cars shouldn't hit boost/AFM, unless a fault condition exists. Modified cars on the other hand..

That's a pretty good test. I'm guessing you don't get anything if you use the remote either, ie does any menu display come up? I had a less than great run out of these tuners, with more than what I'd call acceptable being DOA or dying within a week of going in. However, those that worked seem to be OK (mine is still good after nearly 2 years). This is your 2nd one isn't it? I'm sure I sent you a replacement previously. I hope there's no underlying issue with your car's power etc. Did you run accessory power from a fuse up front or take power from the existing tuner?

Hi Andrew, can you remove it and plug it into the aux input of your house TV? You will still need to power up your antennas so maybe putting the TV in your car may be easier. That would help eliminate some possibilities. I'd send you a new one to test if I had any left.

Drove my car for the first time in a month or more & it was breaking down / running rough. Sounds very much like it was missing a cylinder. Denso Iridiums IKH22's still the preferred plug? I've not changed my plugs since I've had the car so may even be the originals, but anyone want to suggest anything else worth looking at?

This ^^ is excellent advice! If you replace your narrowband O2 sensor with a wideband one to do what Ryan suggested above, the CEL will continue to pop up, not because you don't have a narrowband signal going to the ECU (you will have from your wideband), but because the ECU can't see the O2 sensor' heating circuit. The fix is either a) install your wideband sensor further down the pipe, just before the cat (like recommended by many suppliers) & leave your factory narrowband sensor still plugged in. The signal circuit will be disconnected from the ECU so won't do diddly to your tune. Or b) replace your factory O2 with the wideband one and put a very large (10W) resistor across the heating circuit (near that green plug that you pictured) & that will fool the ECU into thinking the sensor is still there. I'll have to check what resistance it should be, but somewhere around 10 ohms is what I'm thinking.

Mine's ~1.8t plus whoever & whatever I have inside. I could get into the 9's (just) on a trip, otherwise 10.5 - 11.0L/100km on stock turbo. Don't know current consumption since changing turbo, but probably a bit worse.

No I don't, but I also don't have cooling issues, yet. If there was such a thing as a finned sump, it would probably provide all the extra cooling a modified road car would need. (Not talking track days here.) Is there room somewhere out of the front airstream to mount a cooler? That would radiate a fair amount of heat by itself, or a small fan (or 2) could help (thinking computer case sized). I don't think there's room in front of the radiator in my car either, so one day could have to look for alternatives. Anyone else noticing a slight handling change everytime they add more weight ahead of the front axles?

Years ago I was told that cooling the oil is more efficient than a radiator at keeping an engine from cooking. I never believed it till I put one on a V8 with chronic overheating issues. The core was approx 200 x 300mm (sold by a truck spare parts place to "cool a Mack" - I lol'd at him). So put it in & it instantly fixed my overheating problem. In fact I reckon I could've run without coolant, except I wanted the heater to work. Had to block the airflow (to the cooler) in winter so the engine had a chance to get to operating temp. The one Hayden chose looks plenty big enough to me. Edit: to clarify, mine didn't have a thermostat. That would've been a better idea, but meh, cardboard worked ok.

It's a pretty good price for the amount of hardware they supply. A good example of mass production for a big market I suppose.

Yeah, if he makes the outlet (turbo inlet) the same size as the metal gasket opening, that won't cause a restriction for anyone running std turbo up to most (all?) high flows (std housing). He'll have covered 99% of M35s with that. If he's successful with a template & does a reasonable job for a reasonable price, then I think he'd sell a few if they truly are bolt on. However, Scotty's doubts (clearance/clocking variations etc) are totally valid & I tend to share them. It remains to be seen if a viable product will come out of it. Either way you'll be right because yours will be done

It's never a big deal when paying an hourly rate, lol. $$$$$

I'm pretty sure Ryan is after more response than laaaa (wait for it) aaag, & hence won't have that issue.

The go would be to make it the full size of the metal gasket (opening to arrow). If the turbo is high flowed later they normally just enlarge it till that ramped part is gone. Well, that's how I made mine & how it came back from Stao. Didn't have to change a thing, thankfully.

Haha, at that rate I couldn't even get to the end of my road before running out.

So that's 3 devices you have tried. You weren't joking about wanting a fuel economy display, lol. What are you doing with the old ECUdatascan?

I agree, rubber hose is better for this situation. Sorry, I didn't look very hard at what they sold.

Check out http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/index.php. I had a quick look & couldn't see weld on fittings, but maybe there is a way around by being creative? Prices look good compared to other suppliers & a decent order (for 10 people) should only add $5 for each person. N/A if they don't have the bits you need, but possible source for other projects perhaps.

Cool, thanks for the clarification. If Nissan recognise a potential issue when towing (Pathfinder), then it sounds like it's not a random mod done because it "looks like a good idea".

Are you saying that chamber is normally blanked off, or is there a smaller pipe coming from there that you are replacing? I tried looking on my engine but can't see squat.