Commsman

If the V35 is anything like the M35 (& a lot of other cars btw), then the speedo is intentionally made to read non linear. It might be an attempt to stop people speeding, or maybe to give owners an unrealistic idea of how fast their car is. Below is a graph I did a while ago on tyres with rolling diameter the same as factory. It raises some question as to how a speedo would be calibrated to fix the non linearity - it looks like a compromise might be required.

I won't comment on visual mods (each to their own), but the bang-for-buck winner in your list is the Transgo shift kit. Do that first! The Works Bell paddle shifts will be more use once that's done. The earthing kit is controversial (I couldn't pick the difference with stock trans, but my wife could ), but I'd only say it's worthwhile if you DIY as you can buy the materials for little more than loose change. Spend any more than that & it's a waste of money, IMO. BTW, your car looks good - I've always liked the black on white on the V35's.

No one recommends anything under 98 as that is lower quality than what (you'd hope) they were run on in Japan. Also, octane is where all the performance comes from. I once had to use some 91 to get me home & my car would barely overtake a cyclist. In my defence, he looked extremely fit.

Sorry, but we are going to need this in writing. Only because of the small sample size. Statistically it is impossible to compare. Seriously, it is possible to make your car faster AND more economical, without spending too much. You will enjoy it far more than a V70. When in Japan buy this (part number KC250-89910). Everyone will be jealous.

Yep, that's what I'd do.

Where's Scotland?? :D

That's the right part number (40210AL800) Edit: even found a pic. The one labelled 40210 is shortened part number.

Welcome Dave. Nice example you have there. Enjoy your summer? Must have got up to a blistering 18 deg, lol. Good turbo driving weather tho

PM sent or we risk tying up the thread with plans for distribution

You're da man Josh! But I'll pick mine up, unless you are heading 1.5hrs south for any reason. My people will be in touch with your people...

I thought they were going to you Josh Or Nate on the GC. Trust me, no one wants me to distrubute from here, unless you all want to come down for a drive, beverage & chat

Points 1 & 2 is the same with mine, except the '2 click rule' only applies if locked/armed for a certain period of time, ~5 minutes or more, & only if I want to open the door immediately. eg, If I lock the doors & then unlock them within a few minutes, I only need 1 click & can open a door straight away without tripping the alarm. If I lock the doors & leave for a decent time, I can use 1 click to unlock & it will disarm the alarm if I don't open the door for maybe 10 secs or so. If I want to unlock & open the door immediately, I'll need 2 clicks. Point 3 doesn't happen to me. It all sounds a bit quirky - not sure why it is like that, but I don't think about it now, just click twice to be sure. If you want to change it, I suppose a replacement might be the only way. Cheers, Leon.

Grabs tin opener & heads to the pantry to find that can of worms stashed in the back. BTW, 14.1 is a great time for 'just an exhaust'. There's a good chance you'll find some other goodies when you start digging.

Haha, it doesn't rip skids even on wet grass. And anyone who knows you Alex, will realise you're not doing this for the $20 / bottle of wine. Very generous of you IMO. And yeah, don't tell those V series show ponies, lol.

I might give my daughter's Micra a bit more timing. If I can pick up 1 extra Kw that would be significant since it only has, I dunno, maybe 3 now. And I don't know why people haven't been lining up for this Alex (shrugs) . $20 is heaps cheaper than buying the cable, & guys don't need to load software & work out what do do with it.

Very cool if you can get this to work Scotty. Have you measured where the shifter will be wrt your seating position? Looking at the pic it appears you may need a rear seat passenger for gear changing duties.. lol. Could just be my imagination tho.

A= BFS - numbers in map are too low. Low numbers = slow shifts; but don't know how you'd go about changing that since your injectors are controlled by F-con, correct?. 6 speed sounds like the best solution for you though.

AFRs sound about right. 3" intake will be a good thing, but brace youself for the AFM cut when you go WOT .

That ^ is the story of my life, but often exceeds an hour (day?), lol. For any work at the front of the car I use ramps, but I need long planks (old stair treads actually) to lay on top so the gradient is less steep & the front clears.

I'm liking the 'whale shark' look on Moby. Maybe black mesh would look better, or whiter? How'd you go with the wideband - get it in & working yet Ryan?

Isn't the original gauge simply a 0-5V afair? If you use the OEM sender & find where the appropiate wires appear at the back of the cluster, feed this into a 5V input to a new gauge/Camp2/etc & your done! Of course a new 5V gauge is unlikely to say "Torque Split" or anything similar, so a custom face may be needed. I have 5V inputs on my wideband that can be displayed on a custom 'i-dash', so I could label it whatever I like. Bound to be plenty of other devices similar, besides Camp2 (sounds gay as a row of tents, lol). But before all that, someone needs to confirm it is 0-5V or all of the above is a waste ot time.

Must just be me then I reloaded my pic. Still unviewable. Meh, as long as everyone can see them..

Thanks Iain. I didn't realise you were up & running again (gave up checking twice a day a week ago, lol). I'll upload whatever attachments I still have when I get a chance. Looks like avatars need doing as well

Not bad, if you can get it for a decent price. Otherwise GReddy Informeter is ready to go, doesn't require a tablet & probably does more (but not wireless). Lol @ "product image is an image".

Russia? Would Eugene be able to help?