Commsman

Can always count on you for a good story Dale. If I ever need a random anecdote, I'm contacting you! On a related note, no matter how good PWR products may be, if they don't back it up with warranty or after sales service, word will get out (like on here) & guys will look elsewhere. I won't be approaching them about any of their products after hearing about the above problems & their attitude.

I put mine in series with the radiator so that the warm oil flows thru the a/m cooler then onto the radiator. This means the trans should get up to temp quicker as the oil is warmed by the radiator before it flows back in. It also means on really hot days it will take some load off the radiator by cooling the trans fluid a bit before it gets there. Running it independant of the radiator will work OK as well (no heat load on the radiator at all), but may take a little longer to get up to good operating temp.

Yes, get a trans cooler. Costs about $100 & available from auto stores everywhere & E-bay etc. Simple to fit. Just look first at how much room you have & get one to suit. It doesn't need to be very big to be effective.

That'd be some drive.. Just remember to call/text me if you have any questions re the install. And thanks Dale for being willing to lend a hand.

YES! I agree Dale (but you already knew that, lol).

Yes, $2K is about right. Turbo rebuild will cost from about $920 (including freight) & if you don't want to do the work yourself, will cost about another $1K for one of the friendly guys on here to help pull out & reinstall. Quoted fuel consumption is pretty close to average for unmodified cars. Can be a bit better (or a little worse) depending on what you do to the car & how you drive it. Some guys are getting in the low 10's L/100km on the highway (me included). I've not had any probs with the radiator & still have the original brakes (although I'm keen to change them), so I guess you can be lucky & have little go wrong - or the opposite.... Either way, it's a fun & practical car with heaps of enthusiasts' advice to keep you motoring.

I have no recollection of the events on the night in question, Your Honour.

Funny, Lambchops sounds pretty Aussie to me.... To quote Blazing Saddles: Sir, he specifically requested two "African Americans". Well, to tell the family secret, my grandmother was Dutch. Edit: LOL @ SAU keeping me from sounding racist by auto changing the real word. Nice. I was just quoting btw.

Very interested too, but if it's a "capital city" price, I think freight cost will erode most of the savings.

Is that the oil burn that makes a strange screeching sound when it escapes?

So you can send a gift basket? Gee, thanks.

Looks like Lainy has a new nickname .

Nistune is a good choice for a C34. Sadly not an option for a M35. However, those devices can be more than 'a bandaid fix' if done right & icw supporting mods.

Yep, it's a rebadged Jaycar fuel adjuster. Essentially the same as a SAFC or other gizmos as per post above. Check out Sydney kid's thread here (all 50+ pages) http://www.skylinesa...fuel%20adjuster for all the pros & cons. Nothing wrong with it if you take care & like DIY tuning with a wideband oxy meter. I wouldn't recommend it if you are going wild on the mods though.

Geez guys, give the poor bloke a chance to update us on what's he's done/not done to his car before you drive him away for another year, lol. There was promises of amazing things & I, along with Ryan by the looks of it, am pretty keen to hear results.

You must've done a great job with the polish, 'cause obviously they never drove it.... I shouldn't talk, lol

Mine didn't come with the larger plastic panel (so oil changes are very easy) & haven't noticed any issues but would probably leave it if I had the option. There is another smaller plastic cover further back that you will want to leave on. I removed mine & got a vibration at freeway speeds - felt like a tyre out of balance. With cover back on the vibration was gone, so there must be some aero benefit in having it there.

I thought they were all exactly the same, but there are minor differences according to the experts. My guess is they are mainly system control (ECU etc) or relatively insignificant ancillary equipment, but I really don't know. It is certainly a clean car. Looks like it's never been driven out of the city. It's all gonna change now, lol.

Funny, I thought I asked all the right questions. His answer when asked about the service history was 'it has the service log book & has been serviced at an Audi dealership from new". Obviously that doesn't mean it is up to date on the services. I very nearly asked him to scan in the log book & email it to me, but I'd already bugged him about a million other things (had dent doctor fix a small dent etc) & I expected it would need a service anyway . It's booked in on Friday to get a long needed going over. I'm using a local "European specialist" who will hopefully know what he's looking at (doesn't hold breath). And since it has a nationwide warranty, I'm telling him to look closely at anything that could be considered prone to failure. Won't be long & I'll be DIY'ing this one too, I suppose. Ultimately the missus is over the moon with hew 'new' car (also means I'm free to play M35 to my hearts content ) & we got what I consider to be a bargain in the A3 field at present. All happy in the commsman household - for now. Oh, nearest Audi dealer is about 100km away.

Haha, "...walk out by myself...". I hadn't heard that one before. Seriousy cracked me up .

Thanks for the heads up Terry. I'd often wondered if that had been forgotten or come & gone without me noticing.

So we picked up the wife's A3 at the Goldy yesterday (came up from Melb by truck), & did all the req'd crap to get it registered. (Who new a set of Euro plates cost $400 What a rip off!) The RACV report we got before buying the vehicle said the car was due for a service so I had a look in the log book. Impressively the service intervals are at 15,000kms (typical of a lot of vehicles, I know) & so I was expecting the last service to have been done ~15K ago. But no, the car totally missed the last service so it's nearly 30K since it's last oil change!!! Furthermore, it looks like the service it missed was a bigish one, with all the engine belts needing to be changed. Grrr. Since this is the recipe thread, I'm thinking of developing a recipe for broiled car salesman. Guaranteed to leave a bad taste in your mouth, lol.

A full PA system from kid's school, including front of house speakers standing upright. But that's not as impressive as: We all have our reasons for buying these wagons, some as a practical way of disposing of bod moving stuff, or just because we like the look, but would you try to sell your car by showing pics of all the crap you've carted? Well there's someone on carsales doing that right now (apologies if you're reading this, but you've got to admit your pics need posting here, lol)

Joel, M35 electrics are like the mob - everything's connected, lol. I'd be a bit suss about the towbar wiring. I don't believe in coincidences, so if the problem only started since that was installed then.....maybe. The only time my tailgate wouldn't stay closed (would shut then open again) was when my battery was going flat. But then I also had weird stuff happening to dash lights, so if you don't have any other symptons I have to go with suggestion number 1 above. Good luck. PS Dale Milat, the Fed's will go easy on you if you save them the time searching & lead them to the shallow graves.

That's a good price Iain. My preference so far is for Bluefin, but pretty pricey here in Aus. I don't know if I can buy it online from UK (running a special there atm) or if they'll insist I get it here. And yeah, it's more than 3 yrs old so ridiculously easy way to gain some more grunt, umm, I mean better fuel economy, lol.