Commsman

Gotta love the VAG cars for that. What chip did you get / who did it for you Iain, & what gains did they advertise for your car? I bought the missus a A3 Tdi (125kw / 350Nm std) which I'm trying to convince her to let me upgrade the 'economy'. Most I've looked at don't get a lot more power, but some (supposedly) have as much as 77Nm gain - & that's significant considering how little effort it is to get it done.

Welcome Darren. Nice vids btw. Don't worry, you'll get plenty of tech help here (& on itsnotavolvo.com.au) & a small amount of ribbing occassionally, as you've seen. It's all in fun & (mostly) everyone on here are good blokes with heaps of knowledge between them. Being mainly family guys &, ermm, responsible types, you will never hardly ever hear us talk about driving illegally. It's what sets us apart from the others

Good idea. I hear Dale's doing nothing these days anyway...

Holy crap! I stripped everything loose out of mine (sub, spare wheel, tool kit, rear ashtray) to get to 'drag weight' & weighbridge came in at 1800kg. Curse you luxury (shakes fist in air for effect).

Why? They're 2 very different cars. Ask your mate how quickly & comfortably he can cart a family away camping for a weekend. He'd be embarrassed 'cause he'd have to drive his mums' camry wagon, lol. Still, I bet it was a nice experience riding in (driving?) a 10 sec GTR. I admit I've never been in a car that quick.

LOL @ discipline fail

Hey Daniel, you went to a lot of trouble with that diagram - well done. Thanks for the write up. I'm sure you will get plenty of WAF soon

I've spotted that one there as well Leigh. I gather he's working at the site. I don't know enough about C34's to pick up what it was exactly, but looked nice.

Interesting story: A long time ago I ran a heap of cable around my engine & earthed everywhere recommended, & then some. Went for a drive & couldn't pick a difference in shift changes or performance with any aspect of the car. My wife drove the car a few days later & when she returned she asked what I had done to it because she had noticed gear shifts to be slightly better. Now I did this when you was away & didn't tell her anything about it. It so happens that she always picks up on changes in cars (good or bad) before anyone else I know. The moral; don't spend more than $10 on some cable & crimp connectors because that's about all it's worth. You probably won't feel a thing if you're like me (or many others on here) & will feel ripped off if you spend too much. As Scotty said, the real difference is the Transgo shift kit. Worth the money & then some

That's because they're not doing sub 6 sec 0-100 times, lol. I have no idea if the Pocket dyno is accurate. I only used it because a) it was free & b) a reasonable form of comparison. It tells me that I dropped ~1.5 sec from one test to another, but in the real world I could have dropped from 5:00 minutes to 4:58.5 (sic). Hand timed runs or phone apps are useful but not a proper comparison across cars/driver/location. Need a drag strip or other fancy electronic timing for that.

Pocket Dyno was the app I used. Dead stock (nearly 2 years ago) it said 7.2 sec. Same road but with mods (stock turbo but full exhaust, intake, shift kit & brake wire mod) plus passenger was 5.7's. I haven't tried with new turbo. I agree Craig, 5-6 seconds is very plausible with a dead stock car, just not a dead stock M35

10 seconds is way too quick for my car. It takes me at least 3 minutes to connect up the battery, another minute or so to get out the driveway. No, I stand by original time - somewhere in the 5 minute mark.

haha, that's about right. In the 5's??

(NSW) Hastings Point - spotted a blue M35 sitting low on 19's. Turns out to be Graham (myM35) down on holidays. Great to catch up again & shoot the breeze for a while.

Yes, that's what I observed. But the good thing is the ECU has the ability to accept new parameters over time, as long as they're not too far out I suppose.

Yes, the colder temps were the culprit, but airflow alone wasn't the cause of the cut. The AFM voltage didn't go any higher then I had experienced pre turbo change, & in some cases was a bit lower when it cut out. So I can guess with some certainty that at least AFM voltage (airflow) & intake air temp inputs combined to screw things up. Before the ECU righted itself I looked very closely at the temp circuit to see what I could do to fool it, & maybe I will continue with that later. Like you say, could be a win for summer.

But that 1st one comes with Stagea mat in the back & CURTAINS! The description says "no repaired", lol.

Thanks for the thought Ryan. That may be on the cards later if my 'situation' remains static. It's amusing (to me) how my mind works. Now that I know I have the bigger turbo, the amount of lag seems more acceptable to me somehow, lol. Don't get me wrong, it still doesn't suit my driving style, or the type of roads I like to drive on, but I was more unimpressed when I thought I was using the 'responsive' hi-flow. Knowing what it is now sort of gives me an excuse for the lag. Anyway, very keen to find out what the other one is like too,

Ahh, OK, I didn't know there was a temp sensor there. I always figured the heat soak when parked was because it was under the bonnet. The way to adjust the speedo is with the Jaycar kit & intercepting pin 27 at TCM (same one as used by the cruise control) so it's modified before it gets sent to the CAN. Two things worth noting: 1) The adjusted output will be a compromise, ie fix it at 100km/h & it may read a bit low at 50km/h 2) Because the signal is changed before getting to the ECU, the ECU won't know exactly what speed you are going so it could affect the odd map table & things like the Informeter will read different (wrong). I doubt that there will be anything too noticable going on though.

Cheers Dale, I just saw it . Well, that would explain the lag I'm experiencing. Depending on future reviews, I'd have to say the smaller one could be the best choice for guys not wanting a 'drag car'. Sort of wish....

How did u connect the two tuners? If you made the cable yourself, check the video wiring for short circuit between inner & outer (braid). Also make sure it's plugged into the correct pins on the white connector on OEM tuner. If it was a bought cable, forget all that - it's probably OK. I'd try it out connected to a standard TV screen. Make sure it's not an outright faulty tuner. Do you have an actual Asuka or one of the gold ones I used to supply?

I had a similar train of thought to you. Whilst the stock turbo (with other mods) suited me perfectly, I needed to fix the turbo & I couldn't bear the thought of replacing it with stock specs. To go to that much trouble you should get an upgrade, right? Don't worry about the driveline. Except for a Transgo shift kit & tranny cooler which is highly recommended, the rest of the driveline will be more than adequate for the power levels of a hi-flow.

OK, so that supports my Cipher readings. In the larger scheme of things, I don't suppose it really matters where the dash display gets its data....

I just had a oh-oh moment, but then checked the data logs. The column header says 'INTAKE AIR TMP ©' & the temps on that particular run were 26-28 deg C. I know the ambient air was ~14 deg C so maybe that is about right - 12 or 13 degrees above ambient?? When you have it near Craig's car, it would be interesting to see if it's similar. Yep, I agree that the ECU knows the correct speed. If Alex or I get a chance to use the Cipher cable & it supports that statement (& it will), then it will be conclusive - Nissan engineers are treating us like idiots by building the optomistic speedo error into the CAN bus. Re the air temps - where does the dash display get its temp reading from? It can't be the same one co-located with the AFM or they'd be the same (see my findings above). And sorry to hijack the speedo thread with all this talk of temps.

More info to hand. The cutout issue is gone - well at least at the temps that I have here - just by driving a few hundred kms. It appears the same ECU that gives us so much grief can actually do some good. It learnt the new parameters (they mustn't have been too far out anyway) & now has no problems with high load at cold ambient air temps.