Commsman

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer Paul? Some don't want to know you, but others are very helpful. I tried to get the steering wheel controls for your cruise control from Riverside. Found them very slow to respond & price was no cheaper than my local Nissan spare parts but when shipping was added they were heaps dearer. Now I buy everything locally & constantly amazed at how quickly the most obscure parts will turn up - often the next day.

Unfortunately the only way I could return fuel to absolutely stock is to replace my intake with the OEM one. If I remove my voltage bender with the intake still installed, my car won't even start.... Actually I don't believe there will be any problem with this turbo on a stock setup. Remember the test rig was stock in all areas except for exhaust & fmic. AFAIK it had no other tuning done to it.

I was tempted to put the stock intake on to see how that performed, but that's mainly because mine takes a lots of cursing to bolt up & I was over having the car in pieces. However, I decided to do it right & reinstalled the bigger intake. The fuel & timing settings were left as they were pre turbo change. The only thing I did was turn off the boost control so the turbo is currently running on wastegate pressure (with spring is about 15psi). Stao's test car was M35 with exhaust & fmic, which pretty well covers most of our cars these days. So I'm confident this turbo would work without issues in anything from a totally stock replacement up to whatever level of tune is inplace. The only caveat is (depending on other mods, like intake) you may be starting to push the boundaries of the standard ECU's operating parameters. That's not really a bad thing; in my case it seems I have to wait a few more minutes for the gearbox to warm up before expecting it to allow full boost. Other cars may not experience the same thing. Having said that, I reset the ECU before taking it out on it's warmed up test & haven't tried a squirt with a cold gearbox again. Maybe that's all that was needed? But I do find it hard to believe the ECU wasn't already reset after having the battery disconnected for a month.

Scrap that question. Looked up the web site & says instructions are enclosed . These only do +/- 0.5 degrees correction so it appears you just set & forget. Happy days.

Never any codes, other than the SRS that's been my nemesis since day one. I mainly use Caltex (only because have a business funded card) so I can't even guarantee it's 98, lol. I occasionally try other brands 98 fuel (BP), but can't really tell the difference driving around. Probably never in the tank long enough to learn it.

Good to hear from you again Andy Thanks mate; I have one sorted. Wasn't on my radar to do that until my recent experience, lol. I'm mainly OK with waiting till the trans comes up to temp before driving hard, but an emergency situation may arise (where'd that semi come from?) that requires action, so best to have that covered.

OK, that's probably right & makes sense. I just dropped the box down & saw the available options but didn't change anything. Mine was set for -1. Thanks.

edited 1st post Hey Alex, is this what you saw on Craigs car or yours? I plugged into mine today & it gave me options of +8 degrees to -8 degrees.

I was telling my alignment guy about the 'Control Arm Upper-Inner Eccentric Kit - SPF3297K' & he asked how they were adjusted. Similar ones he has worked on in the past had some way moving the eccentric tube to give the desired setting. I can't see how that is done on our Superpro ones. Do they get installed at the maximum adjustment available & then finely adjusted some other way or is their something I'm missing?

Is it ever done? That sounds too final Is the grill staying or stock one going back on? I agree - looking good

Thanks Stao I did put a washer under each bolt when the actuator was installed. They were more like 1.5mm thick, but it was tight getting the other end on so I think they are doing the job. The actuator also has an external spring (one of Scotty's mods) that keeps the wastegate shut till around 15psi. I am yet to log a trace of the boost, but just by looking at the gauge it appears to be fairly consistant at around 15psi. I do have an EBC, but it is set to let all boost thru to the actuator atm (just sorting the cut-out issue). I will now start to spend time tweaking the EBC so it cuts off all boost to the wastegate to help it ramp up as quickly as possible, & then try to keep the boost as close to the target pressure as I can. I'll report back when I've got more data.

More reviews I tried a few real world driving situations (pulling out onto highway, overtaking from typical speeds) & the new turbo isn't too bad -phew. Yes, there is more lag from standstill. My wife confirmed this when she got home today (she is never wrong about these things, lol). And on the road there is more of a need to drop back a couple of gears in preparation for overtaking. I should point out that my previous setup was almost instant boost (vastly changed from the 'elastic band' feeling of the stock setup when I first got it) so the lag that I've got now seems more noticeable. Had I gone from totally stock to this, I'd be over the moon. I think after a lot more driving (where I can learn how to get the best out of it) & a bit of fine tuning (haven't played with the boost delivery yet) I reckon it could be a pretty decent combination. It certainly has it's good points. I tried a stall up launch that was a bit of a fail. Held it flat & it wouldn't rev past ~2200 & when let go it just drove off pretty normally (no wheelspin) until it came on boost & then went quite good from there. It accelerates pretty hard in a constant surge all the way to redline (6500 with the stock ECU) with no noticeable easing off like the old one. I then checked my 'fun switch' & realised if was off & I was only getting 30% throttle. Doh! Launched again to the familiar squeal of rear tyres. Yeah, now we're starting to get there . This is one thing that the new Hypergear turbo was always going to do better than the factory one. Certainly more of a 'drag' spec. More reviews as they come to hand. I'm keen to report on economy in coming weeks as I think there could be some good results to be seen due to a) being off boost more often around town & b) the lower restriction - evidenced by my changed idle speed & exhaust note.

More news. Due to not wanting to drive too much in the rain (I have a split CV boot atm) my only tests drives have been very short. I drove slowly around my 'test circuit' till the engine was up to temp, gave it a squirt or two, had cut out problem & drove home. Repeated next day, same issue. I could use about 40-50% throttle, or up to 80% if I waited till higher in the rev range to feed it on. More than that & the ECU would put a stop to it. To recap, AFR's are good, AFM voltage doesn't get as high as with previous turbo & I'm running on wastegate pressure (up to 15psi). With a bit more monitoring I found boost doesn't appear to be spiking like I previously suspected. It must be the timing then.... I plugged in my UpRev cable to reduce the ignition timing a few degrees & find that I can't make any changes unless the engine is up to operating temp - I think it says between 80 & 95 degrees - that got me thinking; maybe the problem is temperature related. We all know our ECU's are complex beasts & many have agreed that everything seems inter-related. So I considered the circumstances of my previous test drives & know the gearbox wouldn't have been up to full temperature (coldish nights & trans cooler). Given that some of the ECU inputs are now more extreme, the gearbox temp might be the deciding factor. Today the missus took the car to town & I waited till it came back all warmed up. The test drive revealed no cut out on full throttle at any point. Win! Of course I need to prove this is still the case even on a cold night, but I'm quietly confident it will be ok. Always have ignition timing change to fall back on I suppose....

So, on another note (pun intended), I have noticed the exhaust is noticably quieter now. I wasn't sure if i was hearing things (or not) so I asked my wife to have a listen (she is never wrong about these things) & confirms that it is indeed the case. Over the last 12 months or more the Nur Touring exhaust (chosen because it is quieter than most others) has gradually gotten louder and was a bit too "wop wop wop" for my mature tastes, lol. In fact I was seriously considering my options on swapping it out or changing the resonator etc. Well, I'm ecstatic to announce that isn't an issue anymore & this becomes a nice unexpected positive for the swap.

I'm keen to hear all suggestions. Maybe you can start "a funny thing happened whilst tuning my car" thread?

Thanks for the info Stao. I think a bigger wastegate would be handy for those of us who are using the OEM ECU & 98 fuel. So, is mine the ATR43G2 then? Cheers, Leon.

OK, must be the same as the one you made for me then. When I looked before my eyes must have been playing tricks on me 'cause I thought it was a split design.

Yeah, I was just asking that question. They certainly look different & being a close up pic look way bigger. Not sure by how much though. I don't really want to go messing about in there if I can help it. Hopefully a small timing change will solve it. What's the go with that dump pipe in the pic? Did Scotty make that split design up for you? Looks choice

Hey Scotty, I just noticed the rest of your pics (only saw the dyno printout before). Hard to tell if those wheels are much bigger than mine, but looks to be a similar amount of material left around the turbine opening. Different design on the wheels though. Is that the main difference & the reason Marko's made the power?

Do you think grinding it out to the limits of the existing puck would make much of a difference? I reckon I could Dremel it out with just the dump pipe removed (with use of a vacuum cleaner to keep debris out). I'm not even considering removing the turbo from the car. That is a last resort, lol. And I too was thankful of having my old turbo on hand to compare. I had to rotate both sides to align the cooling pipes with close to factory locations. I think it's called 'clocking the turbo' I found out later. I'm such a newb at this....

I agree. In past tuning I've noticed that it's more of a combination of factors that causes the ECU to call game over. It's a long way to drive to Melbourne to get the Emanage tuned Even then that would be taking the easy way out, lol.

On a different note, another thing I noticed was that the car breathes a lot better & is most noticeable at idle. When I did my intake mods (FMIC & more-so the suction pipe), the revs at idle were lower than before. Instead of ~600rpm when warm, it was more like 500rpm. With the new turbo the car idles like an old school V8. It even stalled when I pulled up at an intersection on its first outing. I noticed the Informeter shows 0% throttle & 1% injector duty cycle at idle - never been that low before. Increasing the idle speed would be another reason to try out the new Cipher cable.

Thanks for your input Scotty. Do you think the boost creep could be held in check if I remove the actuator spring so the wastegate opens much earlier? Also, do my pictures look anything like the turbo you fitted to sky^rkt's car, or are the wheels even bigger in his?

Here are some pics of before & after. There are 2 step downs on the intake side that have been machined away & a similar amount taken out on the exhaust side.

I'll be interested in seeing if you have the same result as I have. Changed the IEBC settings so it's only on wastegate pressure, albeit ~15psi due to the actuator spring mod. Hit some sort of cutout if I feed it too much throttle, mainly in the mid rev range. I suspect ignition timing as AFM didn't get to 5.00V (would go to there previously with no cutout) & AFR's were nice & rich. Time to pull the UpRev Cipher cable out & see if I can get it to work to reduce the timing