Commsman

Haha, no Scotty, not planning to do that again in a hurry. I took quite a few pics and, because I had my original turbo plus the hi-flowed one, I was able to do side-by-side photos. Makes it easy to see the difference. Good idea re new thread. It's started so you & Marko can make the first posts with your results. I still have some info to gather before having anything useful to post.

A few of our community have had Hypergear hi-flow our standard turbo housing. Please tell us what you had done, your car mods & what results you have achieved. It's cool if you haven't dyno'd your car (yet), but it's still handy for others to know how your new turbo compares to the old (OEM) one with respect to your driving habits. Hopefully this thread will be a useful source of information to others considering an upgrade (often through necessity, lol), considering Hypergear provide one of the more reasonably priced services around. I have some pics which I'll post as soon as I find them, but my full review will have to wait till I've had a chance to go for a proper drive. Cheers, Leon.

Yes, fired it up last night to check for leaks. Only one was exhaust, but was last join in the cat back so easy to fix. I still have to drop the radiator fluid as only put water in it for the test in case it was a total fail & I lost all the green stuff. Still haven't driven it. No idea what wheels went in. I wasn't asked what I wanted when I ordered it & didn't know I had a choice. Probably a good thing as I would have researched it to death & then chosen wrong, lol. I just hope it's not too laggy.

Nice work - good numbers! But how the hell did you get Hypergear to do your turbo so quickly? Mine took nearly a month to get back to me & I know when Scotty dropped yours off..... Must be who you know I suppose

You've tried emailing Transgo &/or Summit racing to ask? I've also found discussion here: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177038 where you could find alternatives to the Transgo kit & they asked MV automatics for info as well. Good luck.

Ask & you shall receive. PM sent.

WooHoo! I win! Seriously, I doubt I would have tried them if they were $100e more than I paid, & I saw heaps at a higher price. If you are like me, it all depends on what you can get for your money on the day. You won't go wrong with the Kumhos & certainly not those Hankooks mentioned earlier, but if the Invo's are available for close to $200 (or less) let me know & I'll buy another set for next time.

Damm, that could be the deciding factor for me not getting a bigger set. I think the 355mm Akebono BBK is excellent value, but slim chance of those fitting. May have to print the template one day to double check exactly what will fit.

Are you sure they even had radar? I see the snow has melted Mattias. Nice car btw.

Thanks Andy. I suspect I will find the same thing re extra boost resulting in only heat, lol. I have a low boost setting atm which nets good fuel economy (10L/100km) & hoping that remains similar. I'll take the high boost setting to as much as the fuel system can sustain &/or the gains drop off. Guessing about 19 - 20psi will be max.

Is it true you need 19 inch rims to clear these? Been looking at these for a while.... very jealous

I hope it's worth it too. Apparently this high flow becomes 'inefficient' around 20psi. I don't know if that was arrived at by some formula or from experience in the test vehicle. AFAIK the M35 they tested it in was pretty stock (only exhaust & boost controller I think), so maybe it was the intake restriction causing the inefficiency. I've no idea what boost will give the best results. Will have to wait & see (& hit up a dyno for a tune). In any case I needed a gauge to read higher than 15psi. When my old gauge was first installed it was great as I was only at 13 psi so the resolution was excellent - you could easily see half, or even quarter, psi increments. But as things progressed (running >15 psi) the gauge acted like a boost light - either off or off the scale, lol. Other than light throttle uphill where you could see (say) 4 or 5 psi, it was pretty much useless. You're getting the 'super hi flow' yeah? Very keen to hear how it drives compared to mine (or stock). Here's my old one. New in same spot but reads to 30. Hard to tell in pic, but it's angled towards driver courtesy of a 50mm conduit joiner cut down. You can see the cut out in the lid needed to close over the gauge. Lid's all hollow so I partially filled with expanda foam then used plasti-bond to give a hard surface & sprayed black. Looks almost OEM.

Replaced my 15psi gauge with a 30psi VDO unit. Turbo arrive from Hyper***r on Monday - minus a banjo bolt that, unfortunately, needs to go in before bolting it up to the exhaust flange. Another public holiday where I'm not able to make the most of my time & get it back together. Just a little bit frustrated with how the turn around time blew out from 3 working days to 3 weeks (plus Easter). In their defence I heard they are short staffed atm, but the poor communication doesn't help either. Grrr. End rant. I'm sure it will be worth it when it's installed. Visually the in & out ports are significantly bigger. How that translates to power delivery remains to be seen.

You need a facebook account to see them...? I must be getting old, lol. (heads off to find a teenager to help their old man)

[NSW] White C34 southbound at the Big Prawn ~3:30pm. Gave me that "what's this dill on about?" look as I waved & gave a (was in an X-Trail.)

Is it a fast track? Did you hit speed cut? Moby looked good out there!

No one is going to disagree with you there.

^ that sums it up perfectly Ryan. You have a racecar that you want to get that last tenth? Spend what you can on the tyres. You have a road car that spends 95% of its time driving under 'normal' conditions - then the law of diminishing returns applies & you have to decide where to draw the line.

For some reason Tirerack don't sell Nitto, otherwise that was my choice too. At that wear rating they would! Always a compromise - & almost always mutually exclusive - grip v's longevity. They'd have to be worth a look for a car that's tracked occasionally. Yeah, they are great. I very nearly bought another set, but wanted to try something different for about the same price. On the M35 I expected the difference to be marginal, but... (read previous post).

What is the wear rate indicated on the hankooks? The Invo's are 260, but these numbers are only a comparison between tyres from the same manufacturer, not necessarily accurate between brands. I wouldn't run the smaller size, unless they went on some spare rims for track days. Should accelerate 0.47% faster with those . (fabricated statistic) Taleb tyres in Sydney had a listing on Ebay; $189e & it cost me an extra $15e for delivery. Then I had them fitted, so ended up being a bit more than if I lived in a capital city. I think they buy a container load of various sizes. Bit of a lottery as to how many of our size will be available & for how long. Like you, I umm & ahhed, then researched some more. Didn't take long to determine I'd made the right decision. Am able to take a series of my favourite corners 18 - 20km/h faster. Nearly rips my face off, lol. Then, mid corner, still has enough in reserve to make changes, ie turn a bit tighter - which is hard to judge when your ear is partially covering an eye. (fabricated analogy) Makes me wonder what some of those $500 - $1000+ semi slick tyres would feel like. Also makes me badly want a better seat. The centre console & door are integral parts of my current setup.

I don't drive that many kms (<3000 since gettng them last year) so can't really say how they are going in that department (still look like new atm). I don't expect to get amazing mileage out of them, but as it stands now I'd buy another set even if they wear out in 20,000km. They really have impressed me that much. I searched for the Hankook Ventus RS3 mentioned above, & they look pretty nice too. Not sure another tyre would swing my vote unless they turned out to be exceptional value.

Nitto Invo. Transformed my car, & I was running Toyo Proxes4 before.

If you want to get the hair dryer out, take the battery compartment cover off (just a few plastic clips) & behind the battery is a couple of main fuse boxes. They just happen to be under the windshield & maybe there a drain hole that is blocked that could make that area wetter than normal. It's not what I'd call the most likely cause (battery is number one as I've experienced strange things when my battery was low, same as Dale), but if you've eliminated battery then look there as an easy place to start.

I had heard the electric overdrive in them was fragile, but mIne had the borg warner 4 speed from the P76 to start with, then a celica 5 speed until it lost a few all gears. Come to think of it the diffs were pretty fragile in those as well. I kept stripping teeth. I didn't know what a RB20DET engine was back then. It was old school all the way, think Holley carb etc. In fact in winter on a long highway drive, my carby would ice over & the throttle linkage would jam open. I had to switch off coming into towns or else I couldn't slow down. Rudimentary cruise control is what I had . I'm so glad our new ones work better than that, lol.

Thanks guys; consensus is mix as recommended (or a little less) for best cooling performance. Never heard of demineralised water making you sick if you drink it, but did a quick search & sure enough the W.H.O agrees. Will drink the green Nulon stuff instead.