Commsman

Glad I could help. It was just a guess but I couldn't think of any other reason a GPS would need those inputs. Sorry Dom, I won't be able to help with a cruise control, but if you read the EOI thread there will be info on where else you can get one.

Dale, I see you once had a Triumph. My 2nd car was a Triumph 2500 (ugly as) that I transplanted a 4.4L alloy V8 out of a P76 (uggh, even uglier!). After sitting in my old mans' shed for more than a decade after I got married, I gave it to a guy who came over one day to help me dig 10 post holes for my deck.

This seems like as good a place as any to ask my question. I've drained the radiator & bought Nulon concentrated coolant, the one that 1L makes up to 3L etc. What's the general consensus of filling the cooling system with straight concentrate, ie not adding demineralised water? No benefit & a waste of money or good idea & works better? Cheers, Leon. PS - where's those install pics Jas?

The only reason I can think of as to why a GPS needs an auxillary speed input is to provide some sort of info when going through a long tunnel or in an underground carpark. If that's the case, & because all cars are different, it probably calibrates itself with the speed variable frequency of the speed signal against GPS speed. Then it knows how fast you are going even if it can't see the satellites. If all that sounds like what it does/needs, then you can use the same speed signal that a cruise control uses to maintain vehicle velocity. There's 2 wire locations you can use. Both are relatively easy to find & one in particular (blue one) is right beside the stereo. They are documented in this thread: http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=282 Cheers, Leon.

Silly question but is your throttle floored? It might take 3 or 4 seconds, but you should build enough boost (& revs) to get the rears break loose. I don't know if your car is stock or not, but mine already had an exhaust when this was discovered, so maybe stock cars can't experience the full advantage of the mod. Can anyone confirm? There have been a couple of guys who reported very little difference when they did it, so maybe there's something else going on. It was chalk & cheese on mine tho.

The hard part is knowing what to search for. Try 'fun switch' & you will get a few hits. Try unplugging it & see if everything works as expected. If your brake lights go on then you could be OK. Do you have a safe place to test if the mod works? But you will need to reconnect it every now & then so you don't get a CEL. So if you are going to cut a wire & run via a switch (unless you don't mind pulling over & climbing under the dash once a week), you might as well do it at the ECU. One of the best ideas is to cut the wire & run the ECU side to your reverse lights. That way every time you back out of the garage you will have effectively reset the ECU timer.

Turbo is out finally. Thanks to Scotty & Jetwreck for their occasional pearls of wisdom. Hypergear one hasn't shown up yet. Hopefully tomorrow so I can staert putting it together before I forget where eveything goes. I can't believe there are people who do this more than once!

Hi Ken, try this thread from here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362400-g-zone-for-m35s/page__view__findpost__p__6088605 and also where it all started here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362400-g-zone-for-m35s/page__view__findpost__p__6088605 Lots of good reading & also some data logs/traces to prove that it works.

Thanks Alex. Craig confirmed an error when his was removed, but forgot to ask if his car had any signal going into the ECU to replace it, ie from a WB?. If not, then maybe I will be OK with it gone.

But have you pulled the sensor plug out of the loom on your V35? Our (M35) Stageas are vastly different to C34's & R33's. I've had no probs running on the simulated signal either, just unsure if our ECU monitors the actual sensor as being connected. I suppose I could measure resistance / impedance of the sensor &, if I get a CEL when it's put back together, try a high wattage resistor across the socket to fool the ECU into thinking it's still there. But too much stuffing around. Will someone just pull the plug & start their car already? (I'd do it for you, you know I would!)

It was the heater current monitoring that I was thinking could cause an issue. The wideband sensor has been working fine for ages & sending the narrowband signal to the ECU. It is located beyond the dumpipe but before the cat converter so happy with the location & operation. Standard sensor has been sitting there doing nothing but restrict my gas flow a little.

I'm thinking about leaving my EGO sensor out & bunging up the hole in the dump pipe. Can anyone confirm if the ECU will put up a CEL if the sensor is left unplugged? I already have the sensor input to the ECU cut off & replaced with a modified signal from my wideband so there's no issue with closed loop running, just a potential issue if the sensor itself is monitored for actually being 'plugged in'. I would try it out but my car is in pieces & will need to decide before putting dump pipe back on as to whether to leave it out or not (otherwise exhaust & dump needs to come out again ). It's the dark green one shown loose in this pic (passenger side of intake plenum, closest to firewall)..

Handsome lad back then Alex. What happened?

Yeah Ryan, Hypergear rebuild like sky^rkt, but not as wild as his. I hear he's aiming for a big number from the stock housing. Will be interesting to hear how it drives when finished. Mine should be almost as responsive as the stock one, but with a bit more puff up top & no puff out the exhaust, I hope. Let us know how your track day turns out. Sounds like fun.

Yeah, I was hoping it would hang around a bit longer. I think if I didn't play around with it (read add boost etc), it'd still be going ok. In the end I couldn't drive it without plumes of white smoke every time I lifted off. Funny, the cars got 99,xxx km's, and everyone said to factor in a turbo change at 100k, lol. Was planning to prove everyone wrong, but couldn't help myself - had to push it.... I have new bushes on the way courtesy of Dale. Arms look straight, just not located in right place.

Thanks Dale, I'll PM you for details.

New hi-flow turbo in transit to me so was under the car to pull out the old one with the blown oil seal. The first thing I see was a split drivers side CV boot & the grease spun out everywhere. Great just what I need - more work. Then, over on the passenger side I see this: I wonder how this got knocked out of centre?? So, what's the recommended fix? (Big hammer, lol).

Are you refering to going into manual mode when stationary or when moving, & if so what speed? I haven't noticed that on mine, & what's shown on the display isn't necessarily what gear it is in at the time. Also, M35 throttle restriction can be removed in 15 mins & for <$5.

Actually dcdc is in Brisvegas. I dropped in to see his M35 a few weeks back. Looks quite the project but still a long way off being completed.

A tad above high mark will be fine IMO. Mine ran fine with a lot more than a "tad" above the high mark for over 12 months before I changed the valve body.

Yes, but adjusting it a little could make a big difference. It seems Nissan engineers (or should that be Renault or Mazda?) weren't too stupid. They allowed a heap more ignition retarding than advance, and that is the direction (most) people need to go to stop detonation when they increase boost. Some mask this by using fuel that is inherently good at stopping detonation, but those of us without access to such magical liquid need to find another solution, & this could be it. Please don't rain on my parade - I'm excited! I'm not sure about delving too far into the software coding, but if I see something that allows me to remove the speed limiter & increase rev limit, than I may set myself up in opposition to G-Zone & Nismo etc, lol.

That info opens up a world of possibilities for people who either aren't ready for a full aftermarket system or don't want to go down that path. I will be playing around as soon as I get the cable & a few other things together. Will post up any results. Thanks heaps Alex. I never expected you to do a test like that, & so quick too.

Because, umm, perhaps the V-Series guy have so much performance related information to discuss. There was talk around of giving those guys a separate section for both 2 door & 4 door variants, auto & manual, & further breaking it up to individual years of manufacture. It seems sifting through all the cosmetic mods to find the exact colour to wrap your gizmo is proving to arduous. IMO that's a worthwhile improvement to SAU, but I wouldn't like to see the Stageas separated as we have too much in common.

Not sure if that was a typo or intentional, lol. Posting soon? Sold quick Andy. You must be both pleased & a bit sad .

There was some misunderstanding in the Stagea performance thread. I couldn't follow all of the ranting. BTW, nice ride. Cars like yours would be a rare sight on the roads around your home town I'd imagine.