Commsman

Also, in a M35 the 3 gauges are joined together by a printed circuit board - big effort required (impossible?) to separate. And as Dale said, the boost gauge is close to useless for discerning exactly what's happening.

That could be it, thanks

Yeah, this subject is always polarised, but then I guess there's only 2 options, lol. There's plenty of manufacturers on either side of the camp. Sequential g'boxes in rallying seem to be push forward to change down, & I feel much more comfortable doing the same. It's to do with the way braking forces act on your car/body (pushing you forward) as you slow down & change down thru the gears. Likewise, as you are forced back in your seat under acceleration, I find it more more natural to pull back to change up. People can get used to doing it the opposite way (the way Nissan made it for our cars), but I (& many, many others) reckon the more natural way is the modded way. Try it, you may agree...

Nice pick up. I reckon you're right about getting it for a good price - can't go wrong IMO. re point 1. The previous owner did a very simple mod to CORRECT the way the gear box shifts in manual mode. Most on here will agree that it is more natural to push forward to shift down & pull back to change up (to do with G forces whilst braking/accelerating). This was the 1st mod I did on mine & I found it was so natural that I didn't have to look at the + / - markings, whereas before I was always looking because they are logically WRONG, lol.. If you really don't like it that way, it's easy to swap back. Just need to remove the centre console & you will see the switches with the wires. re point 2. There maybe someone with one for sale. I have mine in a cupboard in case I want to put it back to stock. There is a small benefit in performance with it removed (especially if you put in the 'power duct' or homemade equivalent) but you will hear more induction noise. The thing is, if you intend to put a better exhaust on your car, you will find the induction noise will reduce heaps. On my car the induction noise (& over all noise) reduced to less than stock when I put an exhaust on. Cheers, Leon.

That's a bummer mate . It wasn't 'cause the chassis got caught on the line markings & threw you off the road....?

Sorry mate - read it properly this time. I forgot you arranged more of the bolts as well as the bushes. Keeping you busy at least..

Did they all get sent to you Ryan, or were some (mine ) sent direct?

LOL, if you can count the number of Stageas in the country with that accuracy then there aren't many. It's a nice car but looks flippin' cold over there. Also saw the vid - fast too.

A search turned up this guy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/69626-proof-of-difference-in-power-with-gtr-on-a-2wd-vs-4wd-dyno/page__p__1288143__hl__2wd+or+4wd+on+dyno__fromsearch__1#entry1288143 who says his car (GTR) gets 50kw more on a dyno in RWD. That sounds a bit high but thought I'd mention it. There wouldn't be too many Stags in Sweden, would there?

And you'd be happy doing a max of 100km/h (or is it 110) ?. Forgot, you're in VIC, so yeah, probably...lol.

What's with the bubble on the roof? Looks like an interesting version of a sunroof.

. I think I might do the same. I've done enough testing so no benefit in being able to switch it on & off anymore. I can't see any downside in leaving it on permanently. I mean, no one is forcing me to use it in anger... That will also free up a much needed switch position. Byebye fun switch . And why a couple of inches higher in your seet? From butt clenching? Oh, btw, with it connected to the reverse lights, the application of the brake has no bearing on things. So there could be an occasion where you will bring the CEL, but it's highly unlikely. Eg, you fill up your car & then pull out onto the freeway & don't stop (ie go into reverse) for 700km+ (driving reasonably economically). It may be that the ECU says 'why haven't I seen 12V from the brake in so long?' & throws a code. Good news is it doesn't seem to cause any problems, at least not straight away from my experience. And when you pull in for fuel & slide the lever into park, just pause for a second or two in reverse & you're clear. Let us know your experience after driving with it for a while as there's been mixed reports.

I hope not! I'd be royally peed if I have to remove the dump again. But I had a look at the packet & it's temp rated for turbos. In any case, it was only a smear, more to hold it in place than anything else. It all seems OK till now & been on for a while too - see what happens in the next few years.

+1. I think mine looked perfect when it came out but put it back with a smear or hi temp silicon on both sides just to be sure.

YES ! I agree & continually thank Nissan for designing an engine that was too good for it's intended purpose and/or market. It means one only need spend a few thousand to remove the breathing restrictions & some electronic ones & it turns into a completely different animal. Maybe the engine guys misread the memo & thought the car was going to weigh 3 tonnes, not 2, & designed it accordingly, lol. Or, more likely, one of them wanted a Stagea and was making it easy on himself for later. In any case, way to go boys .

You'd think fixing the heater would've been easier. Some people will do anything to be unique.

Craig, I am impressed that your car runs so well on stock injectors, with just the fuel pump pushing more through (thought you might've surpassed that). I'm still tuning mine (adding fuel mainly) but my max injector duty cycle is 90% as of today. After the intake went in, but before the FPR, it was close to 100% on occasions. I think 440cc injectors & standard pump would be a similar result to the opposite (Walbro & std inj). Do you think the ECU would learn it over time? And Paul, I too agree. In a perfect world with lots of spare time and/or cash you would correctly size the injectors & leave fuel pressure alone. But the point I was making was that it wasn't necessary to stress over injector sizing with the mods that I or Ryan have done thus far. Especially since upgrading the fuel pump gives higher pressure as a by-product. Can't see anyone would change the FPR to a lower pressure just to counter the new pump, lol.

Really? Do you think it is because Nissan were trying to protect the driveline (from hoons like you, lol) or do you think the designers said "luxury wagon - let's make it as smooth as possible"? They certainly took that approach with the gearbox. The thing the trace/s tell me is I need to work a bit harder setting up the boost controller. Hell of a roll off up top.

^^^ what Paul said. As soon as you go the full hog on you intake pipe you will have a top end lean problem with standard injectors & fuel pump. Andy got good results (AFRs richened up nicely) just by changing the fuel pump. My injectors are providing enough fuel just by changing fuel pressure regulator (stock pump). So if you planned to do either of those, & you've already got the pump, then you'll be fine. I'm of the belief that our standard injectors can be sufficient up to maybe 250kw or more), given a bit of extra pressure to increase the flow. Check out 'injectors online' to see what sizes are used in various factory applications. eg according to that website, Gen III 5.7lt motor uses 260cc, XR6 (including turbo) use 295cc. M35s are 370cc, & when given extra pressure (there's a formula around somewhere) they can flow in the vicinity of 440cc/min.

All the ECU input is looking for is 12V, so it doesn't need to have anything at all to do with the brake pedal wiring. It could be as simple as using a wire connected to the reverse lights that goes into the ECU input (original wire cut away & taped up) so not even a relay is required. Of course there's a downside - you won't be able to launch at full power in reverse! Why does Nissan use a throttle restriction? So we would have something to do to improve on their design, lol.

I'm not sure where this should be posted, but there's plenty of talk about the brake wire mod in this thread, so it's going here. Today I had an opportunity to log a couple of runs, without the brake wire cut mod & with it. You can clearly see the ~30% restriction in the first pic, although there is weird burst to 100% for a fraction of a second - maybe it took an instant for the ECU to realise I had my foot on the brake when I floored it? Anyway, blue line is throttle voltage, green line is AFM voltage & yellow is boost. You can see that boost rises quicker when the mod is active, & acceleration is noticably quicker as well. I just thought this might be interesting to some people. Cheers, Leon.

Dale, what you suggested is a good idea. Having read some the posts on 350z forum (& seeing how many people have a similar problem), I'm surprised they haven't been asked this question before. Mmm, I don't think splicing them together would work. Typically in electronics when you double something up you halve something else. Worse case scenario you could blow up that input into the ECU because the impedance or voltage is too far wrong. It is very confusing Alex. I stand by what I said before (co-located sensors can't differentiate AFR between banks), BUT why do the 350Z's experience a similar problem (albeit not quite the same by my understanding) with O2 sensors located on each bank. Is there an inherrent ECU logic problem with the 350Z & PNM computers that only manifests itself when moved sufficiently away from stock, ie better exhausts/intakes & def FI? As you said, it would be really nice to get the closed loop running right. Lots of benefits in fuel consumption & smooth driving to be had. I'll keep reading....

What Scotty said is entirely correct IMO. As everyone knows, in closed loop the ECU cycles the injectors rich/lean & gets feedback from the O2 sensor/s. When it leaned off one bank & read the AFR from that banks' sensor, it was really reading the richer exhaust from the other bank. So it leaned it off a bit more, check - no difference, continue reducing injector pulse width until reaching end of ECU parameter (result is you get a rough idle or whatever). When you pulled the O2 sensor off & put back again, it just so happened it was the other bank that started leaning off first & the cycle continued as before. Point proven I reckon. Funny, I recall questioning this layout when I saw the pics (page 3?) because I couldn't see how it could work. But since I'm no engineer (well not an automotive one), I wasn't about to call it a HKS design fail back then. But now I think it is- just a little bit, lol. Ideally the sensors should be moved so they are sniffing the AFRs in their own bank, but that's probably too hard. Disconnect so never run in closed loop....? I hope you get it running how you want it Alex. It's looking great nonetheless.

haha, sure Josh, let me know when ur going. I do work at Port semi regularly, but don't normally take the M35.

I know it's OT, but you are the 2nd M35 owner in Port that I know of - you have enough for a Stagea cruise now....