Commsman

That is a pretty accurate review, of a standard M35. Good thing is there's some pretty cheap mods that will address most of the 'bad' points. I quite like the look of the back of mine now that I've made some changes, although I wasn't very fussed prior to that.

edited your post for more drama, lol

Mate, that is great news. Btw, that stink would be left from your last passenger. I recommend a steam clean.

Woohoo! Who said these fat wagons can't be economical (relatively speaking). Nice. What I like is the better you let these breathe, the more efficient & economical they become. Oh, & faster, lol.

Paul. here's the one that the M35 owner used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039H2W66/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=g35audiassi-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=B0039H2W66 Here's what he said about it: "It worked straight out of the box but the tune buttons work in reverse. The power and mode buttons don't work. You're supposed to be able to manually configure the buttons but the unit didn't want to play. As it stands, you can adjust volume and change the radio or mp3 etc tracks so that will do." It's worth noting that he was using the older JDM spec switches, which are most likely to be exactly the same as yours (electrically), but I can't be 100% sure. I also don't know what headunit he is using, but the device would be another option for you to try if you want.

These are the resistances that are placed across the common/ground wire (pin 17) & the other 2 wires (pins 16 & 20) when the various buttons are pushed. If your unit was looking for resistance, and these were assigned/learned, then it should work. If your unit is looking for voltage changes, ie it places a voltage on the wires & the variation when a button is pushed determines the function, then maybe some of these are out of spec & additional resistors are required. It would be helpful at this point to have a manual for your system. There's a guy with an M35 that had a similar issue with only some of the audio controls working (not supplied by me, btw) so it could just be a case of 'it is what it is'....

Interestingly, I once had a blank bank cheque (actually from a credit union) which stated it was valid for up to $xx. That allowed me to shop around for a car, negotiate the amount & then fill it in with the sale price. Not sure if any institution is still doing those, but was very handy.

A picture is worth a hundred of Iain's words. Here's one I made earlier...

PM sent (awesome one )

If it's an auto, put a Transgo kit on the list to consider. The gear changes happen much faster so in a straight line at least you can gain some ground. Otherwise I vote handling upgrades also.

That's great news Craig. I hope you work out the CAS issue soon & get back up to full power. No problems maxing out the standard injectors? I reckon they are highly under rated, especially if you've increased the flow via better pump or FPR.

It does seem a bit pointless getting the boost & torque split gauges for a NA V series. And since they are all sealed up together in one electronic package, makes me think a single din facia with gauge mounts is really what he wants/needs???

It's a popular cruise control, so I wouldn't be surprised if it was fited a/m to your car. Maybe you could integrate Nick's factory buttons to yours, lol.

Hi Nick, what was said above is entirely true. However, I assumed that most people would want the steering wheel controls so ordered only one less set of controls than I had units to sell. Murphy's Law dictated that the first person to buy one had the Momo wheel & hence didn't require the Nissan controls. That means that I need to include the wheel switches with every cruise control or else I will be left with spares. So I'd rather not sell the CC without the switches at this stage. There's enough interest by the looks of it to have them spoken for by early in the new year.

What is his problem?

pm replied. There's some reading for you

Check the shocks. I borrowed an old Datto years ago with the exact problem. If I went over an undulation that started the car swaying, & held the speed constant, the sway would get increasingly bigger till it felt like it would tip over. Shortly after backing off it would go away,.. till the next bump.

Never heard of it. Pic?