Commsman

Seems anything mechanical in our cars runs on wires somewhere. IMO you can't progress unless your prepared to cut a few here & there .

Thanks Paul, I appreciate your efforts. Where can I get one of those tools mentioned on the yellow card?

If you compare the location of the buttons in both pics, you could possibly cut yours out to suit a double DIN unit. Depending how handy you are with tools (Dremel?) the finished result may be ok, especially if you could hide the edges with some sort of stereo surround trim. Question has to be how valuable is your time? I'd buy the facia so you know it will look good & fit your stereo properly. Looks like they come with mounting hardware as well, so if you try to cut yours to suit, there may be a few more hurdles to jump that aren't so obvious to me right now. That bottom pic looks the goods tho. Is that toggle button a custom job turned from aluminium billet?

Maybe a relay so it happens automatically, but it shouldn't cost more than pocket change. I haven't had more than a cursory glance, but noticed a few things when reading up on speed wires for the cruise control.

I was thinking of drawing up a simple mod to allow the ATF to pump thru the cooler whilst in manual mode, BUT switch back to standard when in D, thus not buggering my exceptional fuel economy. I'll work on this soon, maybe this weekend, & post some results if anyone is interested. Craig, I wouldn't have though there'd be that much difference in fluid colour (I'm guessing some looked a bit 'burnt'?) so I will be using manual mode sparingly until I sort something.

That's a nice boost controller Jason. Here's how to connect it. PM me if you need further help. Red - ECU 110 Green - ECU 48 or 57 (choose same wire for black) Black - ECU 48 or 57 (choose same wire as green) Purple - ECU 1, 2 or 3 (or even 11, 12 or 13 - whatever's easiest) Grey - ECU 83 White - TCM 27 (this one is yellow/black ) Cheers, Leon.

Totally fine IMO, & more than a few minutes wouldn't hurt either.

Hey Nate rather than try to get up under the dash to the OEM wiring, what if you try an extra clutch switch as suggested (example below). Is there anywhere within easy reach to mount one so your pedal activates/releases the switch? One wire goes to earth, the other goes to the purple wire from the cruise control.

$30 - can't have been much of a problem . I thought grip was great on mine too. Then I started modifying & it gets heaps better. You may get years more out of your turbo if you look after it with quality oil & reasonable change intervals. Or you may not.... hard to tell really. Yes, the door lock is functioning correctly. Can you post some pics? It's always nice to check out the new guys ride. And welcome to the Stagea forums. We are generally a decent bunch around here.

I haven't noticed as yet. I thought they all felt roughly (smoothly? lol) the same in the brief drives I've done.

Hey Jethro, sorry for not being more enthusiastic about the Transgo kit, lol. It may have read like I was a bit 'meh' about the whole thing, but that is far from the truth. I've read pretty well every post in every thread on every forum relating to the VB upgrade, & except for a few unfortunates who probably stuffed theirs up, the results are mostly the same. So, after testing mine & finding it performed exactly as expected, that's what I posted (honest as always ). I've been thinking about how Transgo developed the HD2 kit for RE5 g/box. Given their target market was probably the Infiniti G35 (sport/luxury), I think a HD1 would be too soft & slow & a HD3 would be too harsh for the majority who don't track their cars. I reckon they got it bang on with the mid range kit & suits our cars IMO. But if you want more details, so I can be added to the "it was a fully sic upgrade bro" crowd , then here goes: On launch the wheels spin for a noticeably longer time. I haven't yet experienced the chirp into 2nd gear at WOT. Maybe too much grip, maybe not enough power, either way a little bummed. However, maybe the TCU will learn new parameters after a while & it could happen (could be a Pantene moment, lol). I took my missus for a drive and, while driving on light throttle, was boasting about how smooth the changes were. Later she says 'how much money did you waste on this?' & I put 2 & 2 together & came up with she was disappointed. So I put the boot in & all was forgiven . I admit I've been more excited by other mods I've done, but that was more to do with the unexpected results than anything else. I love spending a $2 & getting a great result (eg brake wire cut) & even though the VB upgrade wasn't cheap by the time you put a cooler in, fill it with ATF etc, it is still excellent value & a 'must do' for anyone wanting to get more power to the ground reliably.

Thanks Greg. I'm not sure how adjustable Chris' are, but I too like to be able to control the characteristice of it. I've also driven with some dodgy cruise controls. One on my X-Trail 'caused' me to get fined for speeding. I was overtaking & hit resume as I was pulling back into my lane. That units default setting was to give heaps of throttle & then back off to the set speed. Of course I was already going close to what was bookable & that put me over the limit. These new ones can program that annoying feature out of the equation, & for that reason alone I love them.

Hi Josh, thanks for the feedback. If I may address your comments, I think it may clear up where I'm coming from. This one can come setup if I plug each box into my harness & program it for pedal/button learning, but since the speed sig on the V35's could be a different frequency to my M35, there may be some programming req'd for V owners. There is no wire cutting required as such, just wire connections. I think most people who will buy mine like to DIY because of what they learn about their cars (at least I do), & I wouldn't want to deprive them of that . These also hold speed very well, with all but the steepest of declines causing it to run more than a couple of kms over the set speed. The tuning that is available (not required) is great for modded cars. To be able to vary the responsiveness to suit an individual car's power delivery is very nice IMO, & is a positive, not a negative, Install time of 15 minutes is legendary! I know you get quicker at things when you do them often enough, but to remove the trim & steering wheel, plug in switch panels & replace trim should take at least 15 minutes. Then there's connecting power & a few other wires. I'd say anything less than 30 minutes is an amazing feat. Good on Chris for being that efficient . When I looked at his cruise it cost $700 for the gear & $200 install (a decent deal, btw). That means Chris is making $800/hr (based on 15 mins work), ignoring the margin on the unit itself. That's a serious hourly rate; I'm jealous, lol. You are right that you get what you pay for; but don't confuse a cheap price with a cheap product. These sell in Aust for $900 installed without the factory buttons. I don't know of anyone putting the factory buttons with these yet (there might be), but if so, the price would probably be $1000 - $1100. My price is only 'cheap' because I bought 20 from the OS distributor, plus 18 sets of buttons from Nissan and am selling them for what they cost me. I wanted 3 units myself & this was the best way for me to get what I wanted, considering I also wanted the switches that light up at night & afaik Chris' don't. You may not believe me re the price, but yes, I am that generous . Anyway, there are only a few left & it is a once only deal for serious DIY'ers who want a premium product at a bargain price. Anyone who wants a 15min drive in/drive out, no fuss install knows where they can go. Cheers, Leon.

General consensus is 245/45 is the best choice for guys running 18's. It's a popular enough size to be affordable. I wouldn't go smaller than that, and was actually thinking of going to 245/50, until Dale talked me out of it. That size has a diameter 77mm bigger, so will really fill those huge guards, but looks could be compromised.

lol, they're 18's. Just smaller tires from what I can read. Some 245/45's will fill the guards a bit more. Dale might suggest 245/50's to do the job, but I'd disagree.

I'm surprised this kiy hasn't sold yet Cobey. There's usually a handful of people interested in FI at any one time, & this kit looks like it should suit most in terms of performance v's price. Good luck mate.

VB back in g'box & test driven. I can't fault it. Both Transgo & Craig have done a great job.

If you are talking to him Ryan, tell him the ad needs more pictures. No one will be too interested unless theres a few more pics. I would like to see at least a couple of the interior & a side on view to check out the wheels. At that price he should sell pretty quick.

Plug & play, sure... Nah, you'll be fine, but you've got my mobile number so please call/text if you have any questions. Just watch the removal of the Torx bolts in the steering wheel. I recommend turning the wheel so you can get at each one from out the drivers door. You need to ensure you get good access & be straight on when you apply torque to undo. A guy yesterday may have rounded off the inside of one of his.

Good to see you have a plan .To have a hoist (drools) would be great, but so far I've managed most things on ramps. Call me when doing the cruise control if you've got questions. 10 secs with the spray can & I've got a 'cool' B & M. Nice, thanks for the upgrade suggestion, lol.

Way to make Matt feel bad for spending a few bucks more than he needed too, Doh! It's ok tho, I reckon there's no one on here that hasn't found the same or equivalent part cheaper afterwards, at least once.

There's always a story, lol... I've had one in the shed for 6 months or more but now with the fmic inplace it was too big to fit nicely. I went to a local auto parts store & bought a generic one (Davies Craig brand I think), chosen purely on size & availability. I figured with all the ATF drained, there was no time like the present to plumb it in. The instructions were adamant it had to go after the radiator for the coolest possible fluid to return to the trans. I did the opposite, as per a fairly common consensus on here, & went trans > cooler > radiator > trans. I've been keeping count mate, & I think your estimate of parts ready to go on the car is low . Good luck with the move. Do you realise that if you installed everything you wouldn't have to move them??

Hi Matt, Thanks, I've saved that seller, just in case. That was very helpful for your first post .

Trans cooler installed. Reprogrammed valve body in transit from Jetwreck. Thanks Craig, you're a champ to fit me in so quick .

Thanks Alex. I remember Dales' looked good so these would be alright too. I like 18's because as you say the higher profile tyres make for a better ride where I am. I don't know if they'd be lighter than the Work wheels on my car now, & I'm not that much a wheel guy to justify 2 sets of similar wheels. Look like a good buy tho.