Commsman

It depends on how much trouble you want to go to. A Carputer with an OBDII cable & software seems to be the most common way guys do it. Do a search on the V35 forum for some threads or Google OBD2 software, carpc etc

If you can't find a speed signal wire there, I think the one Chris is talking about is on pin 27 of the TCM (Transmission Control Module) which is behind the passenger side kick panel. It's a yellow black wire. At 20km/h it frequency is 185Hz (according toG35 manual). Is that in the range you require?

If you want to easily check what Iain suggested, get a multimeter, earth one probe and check the voltages on the wires with the other. The voltage on pins 2 & 5 should be linear all the way to the floor. A sudden change (drop off?) would indicate a faulty potentiometer. To get access you might need a pin to push thru the wires as the back of the connector is sealed.

Would throttle re-learn procedure fix this? Even though it is used for idle speed, it may well fix it. The guys who have done this when cleaning out their throttle bodies may know...... In any case, it shouldn't take long to do the procedure. Info here: http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=206 Cheers, Leon.

First part, no problems. Should be a nice upgrade. Second part, won't cause you too many problems except the hassle of trying to fit gauges into the mechanism. If it were me, I'd use the pop up screen to show the gauges electronically. You could probably display 6 on there at any one time with decent resolution. Then if you decide to sell the car later on, it will be more desirable as the screen is functioning (IMO). Though you will need to find another spot for the sub... Good luck with the project and, whatever you end up deciding to do, please show us the pics

Sorry about that. PM sent.

I'd like to add my thanks also. We had a great weekend & just arrived home after 8hrs of driving in the rain. Good to put faces to names & all that.

Thanks for the reminder Dale. I wonder how many people will turn up after we've left/about to leave the meet point? Speaking of which, I'm leaving at 7am tomorrow to drive down.

Haha, yeah that's the one. Love the stripe. Mmm, those wheel arches & high ride height remind me of something....

My first car was an '73 AMC Hornet (& no, it was pretty old when I got it, lol). Looks like the same 'burnt orange' colour as yours. I'm glad cars have come a long way since then. Mine got 20mpg & went/handled worse than anything from Kia or Daewoo these days. I'm sure your's is better tho...

I got mine thru Jesse a while back & it cost ~$950. People have reported them for as low as $799 from Just Jap (plus freight?), depending on exchange rates & how many they bring in at a time. Point to note, exhausts get louder over time as the sound deadening settles down. I'm very pleased I didn't go with a louder one as mine is now probably at the level that most guys would say is what they like, but if it keeps getting louder so help me..... lol. Also, the tip is a bit on the big side for a 'mature' bloke like me.

14yo son coming with me (actually I'm going with him as he needs a driver, lol). Nothing wrong with bringing the young 'uns, unless they tend to upchuck thru the corners.....

^ That about sums it up! But seriously, $1500 sounds a bit rich. Pretty sure I've seen DIY's on G35 driver. Maybe costs $50 - $100 for the parts...? Here you go, found this one (of many) http://g35driver.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting-diy/336660-diy-led-headlight-thread.html

Yellow C34 heading south thru Ballina at 11:10am, NSW plates. Had my arm out the window waving like an idiot but you were looking the other way (on purpose pehaps, lol). Was it the guy on here that always commuting between Gold Coast & Tassie (sorry, forgot your name)?

Welcome. I wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your M35 sometime. If I were you, I'd start with the exhaust. A cat back would be OK, but add a dump pipe (check out ones made by ScottyM35 on here) & front pipe with hi-flow cat if the budget allows. Also do the brake wire cut/switch (search as there's plenty of posts on this) to give you access to full throttle from stand still. Cost is at most $5 so no excuse for not doing it IMO there's no need to highflow the turbo unless it's stuffed (some say only a matter of time) or until you have upgraded a few other things. I reckon if you start with these couple of items it will give you a taste & some more time to investigate the next steps. And all/most of this can be done yourself with simple tools if your half keen. Cheers, Leon.

Nice work Greg, cheap & effective

It's hard to be exact since the hub centre is inset a fair way (I measured mine from floor to guard whilst doing it), but for comparison it is about 355-360mm at the front and 340-345 at the rear. I even set mine so the driver's side was a few mm higher then the off side. When I sit in the car it evens out. Damm OCD, lol.

Well, nothing too much to report Jase. On one side the top nuts were firm but not tight. I rectified that. Also wound the rear shocks all the way in at the same time as I adjusted the height again. Re the suggested height Dale, I reckon the rear guards are lower than the fronts, so setting the 'hub to guard" heights the same front & rear makes the car look like it's sloping downhill. Not a bad look really, but I set mine so that the side skirt was almost level (slightly downhill to the front). The only thing is that, visually, the different spacing in the guards may look like the car is dragging it's butt like a mangy dog lol. I'll get some opinions next weekend at the cruise....

I'll be looking at mine this weekend too. Need to adjust height again (for the 27th time, lol), but also noticed some noise occasionally. My shocks weren't wound all the way in so will do that at same time. I'll post up info if I find anything worth mentioning. You'll do the same for me, right? I used the nuts supplied. Good thing too because I had to grind one down to get it off. Normal occurence for me I'm afraid .

Hey Ross, what exhaust did you put on? And I like your wheels - car looks great mate.

If your screen has an aux input then it should work. Do you have any pics of the factory tuner?

That is the only way of knowing. Also, most manufacturers design the light to come on when there's enough fuel left for about 100km of driving. After driving my M35 for 630kms, the trip computer was giving me all sorts of warnings about having to fill up, sat on '0 kms left to empty' for a while & then it gave up & shut down lol. I did over 700kms that trip & still had fuel left in the tank (80L tank). The trip computers are hardly the most accurate measure...

This could help. It's from the G35, but the times I've checked stuff the pin numbers/wire colours have matched up. bcs.pdf

So, did you have a good time in the bush eating dust? Looks like a bit of fun.

Sorry, my mistake. Drop down list shows price for 5 x 50mm nuts as $120, just as Cobey said. They also come in black & the 7 sided one acts as a lock nut (unless the thief happens to have the correct tool).