Commsman

Yeah, Dolphin intake replaces just the rubber top part. I guess it will stop any suck in, but bottom is still restrictive. There was a guy on here that posted he had his dynoed at 220kw, with standard injectors & intake. May have been a case of a slightly optomistic dyno perhaps.... Re injectors, has anyone found that running seriously large ones (eg 1000cc) makes tuning for light loads more difficult? And surely economy would be out the window, right? I'm not convinced that one needs to go that big to achieve good power (and driveability & economy). I have read of cars (similar displacement as ours) making more power with 500cc injectors so there must be enough fuel flowing. Either that or they are more efficient at burning it.

You can make one for about $0 - $10, if you're a bit handy. I saw a how-to on the forum a while ago. Did it differently to me (probably better lol) but was more involved. Nissan will charge you about $90 for it, but if you pop off the plastic cover then stick some rubber or stiff foam around the edge to stop hot air getting in, you'll end up with the same result. Of course it won't say "Poooowweeerrrr duct" for everyone to see when you open the bonnet......

I doubt it will work conveniently like that (mainly designed to play files using remote & file manager style inteface). However, the AV input (with RCA connectors) will work nicely using the right lead to connect to your device. And with some thought & a few relays you could run both reverse cam & Ipod/MP3 as inputs, or maybe a DVD player, PS3 etc etc. But please post up what you find as there's heaps of variations I've not tried nor thought thru how they could work.

Yeah Andy, you do! Everyone with a M35 should do this. Then crossing a busy road won't require such a big gap. It's pin 55 on the ECU, but run it via a switch so you can "cut" the wire at will (& reconnect it also). If the ECU doesn't see the brake switch every so often (days normally) it will eventually throw a code. Good news is the code disappears if you switch the wire back into circuit & put your foot on the brake. For more info have a read of this thread from about here (or even a few pages before -it's very interesting): http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5832870

http://www.14point7.com/SLC-Pure-Plus-2.php Key Features 0.01[Lambda] accuracy Range; 0.68[Lambda] to Free Air, equivalent to 10.26[AFR] to Free Air for gasoline Free Air Calibration of Lambda sensor capable Digital display USB connectivity Multiple parameter display Built in RPM pickup Real-Time datalogging of multiple sensors @ 25 samples per second Internal Memory for 2.9 hours of datalog storage @ 25 samples per second Programmable Linear Output Programmable Narrowband Output Mine is the DIY version (of course, lol) & it doesn't come with the internal memory but otherwise the same. I need to have my laptop running in the car to log, but no big deal. I have the boost sensor as well so it can be shown on the display as well as logged along with AFR, throttle opening, AFM voltage (has 2 x 0 - 5V inputs or G sensors). Having trouble getting RPM to register but haven't played with it for a few months. Must take another look at where I'm getting the signal.

White C34 parked opposite Mills transport in Murwillumbah industrial estate most of the day. Also needed a wash but very nice. I walked around looking for an owner but too many places where you could have been. Anyone on here?

I'm sorry I missed all this discussion - had to work away all day . Just to clarify, the bypass is so the AFM doesn't hit a voltage ceiling. I'm probably not telling you anything you don't know, but here is my take on it anyway, for those not sure what it's all about.. Background: When you increase the size of the intake you get more air flow (obviously - that's what you did it for, right) & it is possible (likely) that the AFM will hit max voltage (~4.8V) before hitting full load - especially if you've done other mods. A few of you guys have experienced this already, hence the emanage. If you have a larger intake experiencing this, the ECU won't/can't increase injector pulse width (more fuel) if the AFM sits on max V. Solution: By sending some air around the AFM, the engine gets the extra air it needs but the AFM doesn't meter it, so the voltage is lower across the range (ie shouldn't hit voltage ceiling). The ECU reads this voltage as less load & will drive the injectors less ie run lean. Now we use a voltage modifier (interceptor) to increase the voltage that the ECU sees from the AFM at a heap of (200+ in my case) load points by varying amounts depending on what your wideband meter is reading. Progression: This also allows someone to increase injector size & then recalibrate/retune. Now the good part. If you have a device that can send a "fake" EGO signal to the ECU for when in closed loop (cruise/light load), there's no reason why economy can't be retained (or bettered) even when increasing injector size with the factory ECU. My wideband meter does this! There endeth the lesson. Cheers, Leon.

Yeah, it was a shame as it would have been excellent - soooo smooth. Thanks again for doing that for me. Mine drives nice. It does need some fine tuning to get the mixtures right, but in my short 15 -20km test last night I couldn't see any issues that can't be ironed out. Maybe it's because of the smaller bypass tube below the main one?

All mine I'm afraid. Scotty turned me up a beautiful "funnel on a flange" that was to go onto the turbo but I couldn't make it fit. I even cut his flange off and angled the funnel a little to see if I could clear everything but still no go. So I ended up making it, and all without a welder. Oh, no E-manage, just voltage adjuster intercepting AFM signal. Have wideband meter so can DIY tune .

I've got a light between the roof map lights that comes on with the headlights. Bathes the centre console in soft blue.

Installed my intake today. 3 separate parts of 3" mandrel bent aluminium joined by silicon (metal nearly touching so no chance of suck- except in the quality of my workmanship, lol) 25% air bypass so AFM doesn't max out . Injectors maxxed out once on test run . Gave if a quick road tune. Didn't need too much adjustment which was nice, but I forsee a trip to the dyno in it's future .

2kg/mm less than standard at both ends, so ummm 10 & 8. At one stage the factory said they didn't have any 10's so I was looking at 8's F & R, which is very close to the Nismo rates I think. Would have been pretty happy with that as I reckon Nismo probably know their product, but in the end they found some 10's & that's what coming. My prediction: - No one will be able to tell the difference if they drive mine & compare it to their standard BRs lol. 2kg/mm will probably make stuff all difference. I think it will all be about the damper settings.

Hello, this is news to me. I doubt it's a problem tho. I mean, he's ordering mine direct from the factory (I know 'cause we were discussing spring rates & what was available) & I'm pretty sure he would send them back if there was any issues inside of warranty period (which I doubt). His whole business is based on trust / word of mouth etc. You don't throw that away over a few hundred dollars.

You may be right Iain. Scotty runs his V1's on about mid setting (15?) from memory & says very compliant.

Haha, yeah, I'm with you. Mainly 'cause I liked the colour more though lol. But in the end I got the other cheaper anyways (see previous post).

No, I think the V1's work exactly the same & a few guys have been running them for a while now with no probs. However, Paul @ STT won't sell them 'cause they are "unproven". What? I think they've been around longer than the BR's lol. I think he likes the bigger damper (maybe thinks it will be stronger?) and I suppose our cars are pretty heavy. In any case the options for me were buy the BR's from him or spend more money & get the V1's from JustJap. No brainer in this instance.

Hey Aaron, since when does $1299 - $1149 = $300 (JJ prices) lol @ your maths. What is it you do again?

Yes, that's them. Send Paul at Street to Track an email (I PM'ed you) & ask what the current price is. Mine are on the way (with custom spring rates) & were $1165 delivered. But if you are in a hurry, Just Jap would probably get them to you sooner if they're in stock & you get standard rates.

Most TV tuners out of Japan won't pick up any/all Aust channels. You may be lucky with yours tho. Have a play when you get it & let us know the result. If it doesn't work properly & you want TV in your V, I have another batch of tuners arriving next week which also have input for reverse camera, USB & SD card slots & outputs to 3 screens. Cheers, Leon.

Nothing wrong with reliability with these cars. Turbo doesn't automatically = bad reliability, just more fun. My only performance mods are a bigger exhaust that is quieter than the stock one & a switch that removes a brake signal to the ECU so you can go full throttle from stand still (think trying to get across a busy road) instead of being artifically limited to ~ 30% opening till about 30km/hr. These 2 things dropped my 0 - 100 time by 1.2 sec. But the real benefit is amazing torque for overtaking. They are all 5 speed auto's these days as well. Performance guys aren't overly happy with this, but perfect for the family car. Oh, and then there are the 3.5L PNM35's. No turbo, but still a very nice wagon & these are newer vehicles (but more expensive). Yes, in a lot of ways it is the V35 equivalent, but with the practicality of a wagon. IMO the best family vehicle around. If you have budget contraints, you could get aftermarket keyless entry for the (turbo) M35, big wheels, and all the bells & whistles you could ever want in a car and still have $15,000 left over from what you'd pay for a V36 sedan. But, if your wife doesn't like them then there's no point arguing with her - go for the newer V36 & be very happy .

I can say from experience that Scotty's work really well. A full exhaust & with Scotty's dump pipe lowered my 0 - 100 time by 1.2 seconds. Oh, & putting a switch in line with the brake wire probably helped...

Cluster comes with 147Km on odo. Just goes to show how far wound back most cars are that are sold here (assuming fairly typical distance travelled). Having said that, I don't particularly want my car having an extra 50K added to the odometer. Then you got to explain to everyone who looks at it... lol

G'day Michael, welcome to the forum. Before all the V series guys jump in & tell you how wonderful their cars are (& they are right ), would you consider a wagon? If you're open to the looks of the M35 wagon, you'll get a very practical family car that can have all the luxuries of the V35 (same front interior) & more (full leather is common, dual sunroofs etc) plus standard power of turbo V6. No probs with car seat anchor points & you can fit a heap of kids stuff in the back. Check out the Stagea forum for more info . Good luck with hunting down your next car. Cheers, Leon

The new tuners still come with USB also. Not sure about limits on those, but it could be 64Gb for SD & maybe 32Gb or 64Gb for USB?? (just plucking figures) but combined it's starting to get decent.

Your tuner has extra video outputs for rear monitors, yes? Why not hook some up (inbuilt into headrests perhaps) so you can have the front screen down & not be concerned about being nabbed? I've seen them for real cheap on Alibaba. Not sure how to easily get round your file playing woes though, and I haven't got a 32Gb+ USB to try out in my tuner to see if it plays, sorry. I wonder how effortless streaming wi-fi in your car would be? Kids being kids I could see lots of "dad can you fix this". lol BTW, new tuners are on the way. Essentially the same as first batch but anodized black not gold, slightly smaller and with SD card slot as well. Nice!