Commsman

That could be Darrin. Check out his pic on 1st post here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/363028-queensland-stagea-crusie-and-dyno-day-july-2011/ & see if that's the car.

That's what I found with my setup, & I love it. I can watch TV on 2 screens (why? I don't know lol) or what I normally do is have GPS running on the head unit with TV playing on pop up screen & TV sound coming from the headunit. With a switch (the earth on C1 mod) I swap instantly between TV & (say) the leaf screen or whatever I was last on. Too easy. Also, I edited your post to what I think you meant

Let me know how they work for you. I set them & the reminder pops up too soon. Maybe there's a reset procedure I've not done or something else I'm missing. But I do like L/100km.

I can't help you with all the funny stuff going on with your wiring, but the button in the last pic is used to make the mirrors fold in when you lock the car / arm the alarm with the button on your key. This works in addition to the switch on the LHS of the steering wheel which you use to manually fold the mirrors in. Cheers, Leon.

I'm not fortunate enough to have a rattle gun at home & I seem to get more than my fair share of "epics" lol.

Good one Glenn . DIY isn't always easy but is always satisfying. I'm hooked on it

Thanks for the suggestion Andy but I can't hold it tight enough. The nut is really stuck on there. I thought about vice grips also but I only own small cheap ones & so no good. I'm just thinking now that maybe I could grind 2 flat surfaces so that I could get a spanner on it. Not a lot of room up in there for a grinder tho.... I did manage to get the rear sway bar on OK so the day wasn't a complete fail. Took me a couple of goes with the adjustable links to work out the best way for them to mount & I had a few other issues so the rear one took way longer than the front would have if it all worked first time LOL.

Finally has some time to chuck the bars in this morning. What looked like a very simple & quick job has turned into a mongrel. The bit hanging down with the tab bent over is supposed to hit up against a flat section on the bar so that you can undo the nut. Mine, however, has decided to come loose so it spins like a washer. Now what to do? Maybe I need to take it somewhere to get a spot weld to hold it inplace. And that will probably bugger up the rubbers.... grrrr What can't things just work like they're supposed to?

Darrin, how many people do you have confirmed as of now? (Counting me as being IN of course )

I would suggest that one antenna won't pick up a TV signal very well, LOL The connectors are F-type (you can google that) which means they have a screw in fitting. About the only other connector you commonly see is PAL (std TV type). There are adaptors to go from one to the other (I have some) but then space can become an issue behind the unit. Maybe a right angle adaptor could work tho.... Do you have a spare AV input (RCA connectors)? If so, if the single aerial doesn't work you could always go for a new digital tuner plugged into a spare AUX input .

Bugger. Sucks when that happens. Question is "do you claim & pay the excess or fix it yourself". In this case it probably isn't worth going through your insurance. Always sad to hear these stories.

It seems that they work best with maximum separation. Since these are almost always used in non Stagea cars (V35's etc), most people stick one behind the passenger sun visor & the other on the back windscreen on drivers' side. In your case you may want to try behind passenger visor and maybe run the other to the drivers side fixed window at the back (probably not the tailgate ). With dark tinting they would be hard to see from outside. They have a sticky surface to hold them to glass which appears to be OK. No one has told me they had any problems. There is adhesive you can get if they lose their 'sticky' I suppose.

That's nice. I particularly like it with the black grill & no huge Nissan emblem. Interesting also is the Stagea badge is removed at the back but they left the 250t RS Four. I'm going the complete opposite on mine. I see they left you with no fuel, and I wonder who got the blue one? Edit- geez Dale, you were too quick for me. My comments look lame now

Hi Chris. The ones that come with these new tuners have F-type connectors & a wire for 12V to amplify the signal. They seem to work well. Anyone with a Stagea who bought a tuner recently from me/Andy/Brad should have the aerials spare. If you can't find anyone nearby, I should have at least one spare pair which you can have if you pay post & packing (say $15) if that will help. Cheers, Leon.

I might do one once I sort out some niggly things. For instance, my unit doesn't recognise the RPM input I'm feeding it, but I can get a reading on my DMM on the frequency setting. I've only just started playing with it so maybe will have it going properly in a few days.

These same guys did a job for a forum member a few months ago. He bought a TV tuner from me & they had no idea what was going on. I had to call them a couple of times to help sort it out. I think that was where they learnt to take the car apart ! They had the other V35 for a couple of days . Glad to hear it was much easier for you .

Thanks, that's what I like about it too. I spend lots of time searching/reading to try to find the product right for me. Keeping gauges hidden or integrated as much as possible is a pet project of mine. I've kept the factory vent so it can be returned to normal in a matter of minutes if I was to sell & new owner didn't like it. Initially I was going to cut out a section of the vent but couldn't work out how to do it neatly enough. I softened the perspex in the oven & curved it slightly to fit the shape of the dash then masked where the display would show through & painted the rest matt black. It's almost un-noticeable when car is off/locked up. It's from 14point7.com & I bought the new SLC DIY2 because I like to DIY everything if possible (just my thing ) & in this case all you need to finish is the connectors on the cables as the unit is complete, ie no components to solder. But in hindsight I should have bought the full spec unit because it has a built in memory to store data without having to have a laptop connected when driving. The main reasons I went this way are: 1) The display could be remote mounted - I bought some connectors & ribbon cable from Jaycar for <$5 2) It logs AFR, RPM, Boost (I bought an extra sensor) & either 2 x G-force readings from built in accelerometers or one/both can be changed to 0-5V analog inputs, so I'm logging throttle & AFM. It also records battery voltage & O2 sensor temperature by default. Heaps of extra sensors are available to purchase. 3) It has a simulated narrowband output. I cut the O2 sensor wire at the ECU & fed this output inplace of it. Now I can make overall changes to the AFR, ie leaner, & finetune other load points with a simple interceptor to enrich mixtures where required. My belief is, & it is untested as yet, that this setup won't give me the ignition timing issues to the same extent as using an interceptor alone.

Congrats on the new car purchase. I look forward to see pics when it arrives. I'd go with 19's given the chance, but only if the cost of ownership doesn't increase too much, afterall you're the one who's going to be buying tyres for it. And don't worry too much about keeping exactly to stock size. They are notoriously optimistic in the speedo department, so a slightly bigger rolling diameter will only help the cause (5-10% would be acceptable IMO) & help with comfort also. I run 245/45 18's, but if I could find a /50 profile for similar money I'd choose that size. Looks like another guy making dumps. That will make 4 by my count. I'm not sure the market is that big.... Since you are in SA, you should contact Brad (ducati02) as I think he still has a couple of TV tuners on hand. But don't leave that for too long as there is a small supply now & I won't be getting another shipment for a while. Cheers, Leon.

Nice work guys . So now I'll need another "special" mod switch for this too. I'm running out of room to put them, already have 4 ! Maybe I'll make my recent "fun" switch do two things, turn off the Atessa & disconnect the brake signal for full power launches. Umm, maybe in the wrong hands that could be dangerous in the wet So, is there much difference? ie do you get your Pirelli's to light? (I think from memory you said they were too grippy in normal 4wd mode to spin - even with the hi power you are making).

Installed wideband controller & extended display behind custom perspex face in vent. Logs heaps of stuff, including G-forces. Could be interesting to do before & after swaybar install.

Yes I do But so what? You're going to tell me that using syncro will engage proper 4WD, right?... Well when I do that it feels like I'm driving a 4WD with the front hubs locked. You know, harder to turn in tight spaces etc. What I want is partial or progressive front wheel torque, without the "lock up" feel.

Mine arrived today also. My son unwrapped them & he was like a kid in an erm auto parts store lol. There was only one minor issue. A bag of the grease busted open & the bag that was around that was also split so I've got black stuff all over the place . I don't suppose there's anything too special about that grease? I've got a few different types of 'standard' grease around if I can't squeeze enough out of the 2 packets supplied. Mate, they really look great. All those gold anodised fittings make it look very pro, and even match my TV tuner lol. Thanks again Dale.

I enquired about this one a while ago & it's never been used in a M35 yet. I can't see why it wouldn't work with our cars, but..... OK, found the message: "As far as I know no one is using one on an M35. If you want to take some photos of the G-sensors and connector under the center console I can certainly tell you if it is likely to work and I would be willing to refund your unit if it turned out not to be suitable after trying. Regards Justin" I really wanted more front wheel torque for those wet days when you want to get where you're going quicker & with less RWD "fun".

Haha, yeah I know for a few of you guys it does. I was meaning for the majority of us with minimal mods, but you knew that & were just showing off ! LOL

One of my test launches yesterday (with brake switch disconnected) caused the 4WD light to come on , but this mod doesn't mean instant burnouts. Our ECU's are very much like women; I don't think any of us guys really understand how they work, but we know what we'd like them to do better, LOL