Commsman

That's great it worked for you, and I was hoping for the same result but no such luck. My resistors cost $0 - the lady at Jaycar just gave them to me, so I had nothing to lose. It is well worth a try for anyone with the cursed flashing light.....

Mate, I hope you do get something extra for having a Nismo ECU . You'd have to be annoyed at paying money for nothing more than you could get by cutting a wire. Surely Nismo don't just disable that input and sell it for $800 or whatever?? That would be a huge scam if that was the case lol.

When you think about it, there's probably only 2 possible reasons to even put in a switch. 1) The ECU eventually throws a code (unlikely given how many km's you guys have done since cutting the wire) 2) You lend your car to someone & you think they may try to launch it from standstill, & they can't drive, & it's wet, & etc In which case you wouldn't lend them the car, right? I put the switch in so I could easily compare before & after & before & after again, & after & after....lol. But I wasn't hooning & there wasn't a tunnel anywhere near here . The only difference I could pick driving around town was that there was slightly better acceleration if you really had to cross the intersection before getting t-boned, & you'd been stopped with your foot on the brake. The launch is certainly better, but not as noticeable as my experiments a few weeks ago. Obviously there were other factors at play then, but not enough to make me want to pursue that testing now that a free mod seems to fix the low end restriction. What's funny was the conclusions we had come to previously that seem inaccurate now .

I thought I'd seen 3 adjustment holes somewhere. You're forgiven lol.

Yep, from memory the minimum was about 0.6V at (cold) idle & maybe 0.56V when warm. I think you're right - guess it doesn't really matter if not physically opened 100% if the engine can breath all it needs. However, it would be interesting to see, via a camera, how the theory stacks up to reality.

I've been seeing some references to this figure lately and 2 questions come to mind. 1) I must pull out the manual & find out how to change this setting, and 2) why 4.12V? By my actual voltage measurements on the throttle body & driving around, each 1V equaled 20% opening as displayed on the informeter. That makes sense if its default is 5V equals 100%. If you are saying that the throttle does actually open completely, and this happens at a lower value than 5V (totally believable), then where did this magic 4.12V come from? BTW, the max voltage I read was 4.04V so it's not too different anyway.

Ahh, only 2 holes on the Whiteline bars?? Sorry, I thought there were 3. I'll just go with the softest on both & see how it feels.

The good ideas have been coming thick & fast the last few days. Loving it OK, so some ideas are better than others, but you catch my drift, LOL

Wouldn't dream of it ! I've already lost my ECU harness virginity. No big deal now . I was going to run mine via a switch so I could break the connection or return it to normal at any time. Going to label it "Off" and "Fun" lol. That way if there is any issue with the ECU getting suspicious after a while (hey, I just don't brake, OK) it is easy to fix. Throttle limp sucks .

"Daddy's little helper", cool I'd be interested to get a consensus on what settings give the most neutral handling, once a few guys get theirs installed. I guess it could be a bit different to the first batch of bars you arranged... but maybe not since there's only 3 settings on each end???

Wow, that was quick. Thanks Dale, I really appreciate the effort you put in, especially getting them sent so soon after receiving them. Cheers for that.

Woohooo, that's brilliant ! I'll give that a go myself. Will do the before & after tests under same conditions of course, to try & take the 'subjectiveness' out of the equation. I love low (or zero) cost solutions that give great results. No one can be dissapointed hey

Now that's a generous offer guys.

Getting back to informeter and modifying the signals from these 2 pots, when I made changes to increase opening from 80% to 90%, the informeter would read LESS than 80% (closer to 70% actually) and then the ECU would back off the fuel (cause it thinks I don't have the throttle opened as much as I do) so I would see the injector pulse width drop down (meantime I'm going faster) & of course the knock sensor would put an end to it I'm hoping for better results at the lower end of the spectrum though. There's more fuel at launch and that is where we want the benefit anyway soooo.... we'll wait & see.

Yep, that's the one. There's actually 2 signals (2 pots) that the ECU uses to determine opening angle. 1 pot has rising voltage with more angle & the other a falling voltage with more opening angle. Complicated son of a. I'm going to have another go at it this week. Been recalibrating modules & trying to get time to install the wideband O2 sensor so I have more an idea what's happening as I make the changes. I think I know why I started getting check engine lights last time. My battery was clagged & I set the interceptors to only intercept the sig after the battery voltage went above 13ish volts so at ign on the ecu would see the real TB, not my modules. With buggered battery I think thet were switching in/out all the time & the ECU didn't know what was happening so threw a code.

$200 sounds expensive for the resistor trick.... Didn't work on mine when I tried tho. I still have to try the airbag module that you sent me Iain; fingers crossed.

Your findings are really interesting. When I was modifying the signal to the ECU a few weeks back I was concentrating on trying to get the throttle to open above ~80-85%, not changing the so called 30% limitation down low. I haven't had a chance to check that out yet, but whenever I changed the signal sent from the throttle to the ECU, the indication on my informeter changed also (in an opposite direction) so it doesn't get it's reading from from the pedal but from the ECU. That part I'm pretty confident about. Let us know what you discover, please.

I have some money that will be yours as soon as you get the sunroof hardware out of the wreck . It might not be enough to pay for the tune, but it all helps, right? I suffer from same problem though; there's paying work to be done but I don't really want to get off my butt to do it LOL.

That's pretty good economy Mal, & you'd be totally right about what would happen if you were by yourself

What???? Joking or did you really tick him off sometime??

Strange. He was non stop for a while & had a shopping list the likes I've not seen for someone who's had a car for such a short time. It could just be that he's having so much fun with the new setup that he's got no time to log on. I hope that's the case & not an alternative reason that comes to mind

PM sent re TV tuner.

Yeah, there wouldn't be too many enthusiasts who downgrade components. Signed

I went out to Casino to have a squiz at some drags yesterday and at the servo spent a record (for me) $118 on a tank of 98, ouch . It was about 74L tho.