Commsman

A=Yes. If you use the 'special cable" which you make up for nix out of an RCA cable and computer USB header doo-dats (I'm sure that is the correct technical term ). This plugs into the pins in the white connector. There's a half decent explanation of what each pin does here: http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__5739793. In fact that whole thread is worth a read. It will also explain how putting an earth (via relay or switch) on the C1 (or Cont1 depending on model) terminal inside your OEM tuner will force it to display the AUX input, even when your car is in motion.

I'll try to answer these, but if there are any errors maybe someone else can chime in to correct me. 1. No, but the tuner boots with accessory power, so is ready to go when you open the screen & select the aux TV input (or have the earth wire mod switched) 2. My sig link should now be working. In that thread there is links to other threads that have lots of info and some with intstructions in PDF form. They might be for the Asuka tuner, but installation is essentially the same, just some operations vary. 3. Yes, just use the extra AV input on the tuner. there's a yellow wire that needs 12V put on it to switch to that input (instead of displaying live TV) so can be as simple as a toggle switch with 12V behind it. 4. Still output to other screens. 5. You could just use a RCA cable going directly into the OEM tuner. You will need some way of splitting off to other screens if you want to run some at the back. The tuner has extra video outputs for this purpose so it is very versatile, even without displaying TV. 6. The yellow wire & AV input was added to these tuners by my request mainly to support reverse cam. The yellow wire in this instance would connect to your reverse lights, thus providing the 12V needed to automatically switch to this AV input when you put the car into reverse. Using the input for reverse cam means you will need some trickier setup with relays to also use it for other things like from your phone. 7. It's actually quite OK. I have a HD screen as well, but with 7" to view there's not a lot of difference in quality when watching video. Don't be fooled by the blocky look of the leaf/fuel consumption displays. I think that's more to do with the graphic design in the programming. 8. You have to leave it in circuit otherwise nothing much will work. There's not a lot of cable length back there to allow it to be moved either. I looked at it but gave up. 9. Not sure about the first part, but yes, sound is controlled by the stereo when it's plugged into the aux in on the OEM tuner. Leftfield question - Video in for the pop-up screen is possible with a connecting cable (& nothing else) as per point 5 above. Anything else is possible with some research, trial & error & plain old fashioned tinkering. It just depends if you want to retain factory look or don't mind bodging something up to do the job. However, replacing the pop-up screen isn't going to be the easiest thing (new one won't just work afaik) and most people who don't have a screen are trying to get one. I hope this helps clear up your questions.

PM sent. The firmware is easily changed by having it in a folder (called upgrade) on a USB drive plugged into the tuner. Switch tuner on and wait till it boots. Remove drive.

You'd be surpised at just how easy it is to lift up the trim along the door sills and lay wires there. Even removing the centre console or glove box area is just a few minutes with a philips head screwdriver. Plenty of DIY guides floating around (G35driver.com) or PM me if you want some pointers. I bet you're not located on the Gold Coast or in Brisbane. If you were I'd catch up & give you a hand. Oh, and hold off on the cruise control for now if you can. I'll be taking EOI on some in the very near future.

Thanks for the update John. I'm keen to follow your progress so please keep posting . I hope it all comes together & works well for you.

Ahhh, OK, I see. So many different models....

I've still got some left & can post one to you if you want. I think a firmware change is req'd for it to pick up NZ TV (8Mhz channels v's 7Mhz) and I'm waiting on a file from the manufacturer. I had some interest from a chap driving a Toyota something-or-other in NZ so have started the process. But in it's current form it will do the stuff you want.

The interior pic....Is that a manual gearbox in an M35 ????

I don't know anyonewho likes wiring - just a means to an end I suppose I got these ones off Flea-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270721573963&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT But don't believe the price as that has been changed. I paid $20 for 6 strips, including postage. I also put 2 in the back (inset into the grab handles) that also work when interior light is on. Red strips would look pretty cool, especially if they match other lights. My white ones are just to aid getting in/out or finding stuff in the back, not to be all all the time. I am going with different ambient lighting for night driving but I've not finished deciding on colour or location yet.

So you've run yours on 95? I've never been game, only ever used 98. I wish there was 100 (or higher) around here to try but no such luck. What's 95 like in your car & is it standard or modified?

Thanks for the pics Duncan. Yours is different to mine and I think I've got the same as Alex. My middle bit on the right stalk only has 1 position (on/off). With the fog light switch (see pic) in pos I (up) moving the stalk to on just brings on my headlights/parkers (same as using the normal headlight control). With it in pos II (down), moving the stalk gives me just fog lights. NB. I don't have the one bright rear fog light like you (cold pack?) so I have only rear parkers on, regardless of switch settings. So my bottom switch only ever stays in pos II, and then I turn fogs on/off with the rotary stalk control. And there is no extra light on my dash to say the fogs are on, unlike yours which is pretty cool. Your setup does seem more, ummm, complicated though - in a good way .

Yeah, Bruns Hotel is a nice spot. I've had the odd lager there myself. Well if you ever come back I'll have a couple more . 9.2 for the trip, nice! I can get good figures, but I'm yet to achieve that low. Gives me something to aim for.

So, you get a light indication when the fogs are on? Mine just turn on but nothing special shows up on the dash.

haha, even funnier lol.

Fitted nice white LEDs to cabin lights (standard) plus white LED strips to footwells both front & back. Wired them to come on with door open (not running all the time) which gives a nice ambience when you first hop in. You have to choose colour, brightness and method of operation carefully. It can be a fine line sometimes between classy and RICER .

Not too shabby on the economy at all Dale. Pity those swaybars weren't ready. You could have dropped them in to me on your way past since I live between Ballina & Bruns . Do you come up this way often?

I wish the previous owner of mine (RS with leather) wasn't so safety conscious, then I wouldn't have to go thru all this crap

No, haven't heard of that. Will ask around.. No protection at startup? Not if it had an 80K treatment in it Actually, I ran Slick 50 in those days. I could run the engine without oil if I wanted. Then it wouldn't blow smoke, but was too noisy

Just ask them what it is. A lot of guys are running 0W-30 (or something similar) which is pretty thin. Just changing to a 5W or 10W could make a lot of difference & it's still what I'd consider thin. I had a crap V8 clunker as a teenager which I ran straight 50 in to stop it smoking .

AFAIK white smoke = burnt oil. Maybe rings worn a little? If it's happening every time you start the car when cold, it might be worth getting an opinion from a mechanic. There could even be some products you could add to the oil to reduce wear & perhaps stop the smoke. There a Nulon one that I swear by; an 80,000km treatment which I use on all my cars, Are you running really thin oil Josh? If so, you could experiment next oil change by using the next one up.

That's excellent Andy - each leg was better than the one before. Did you ditch the trailer for the return, drive more economical on the way home or did the ECU learn something new?

I think it is 79%. If no one else weighs in to say differently l can plug it in & do a test. I do know that I can't get above 87%, ever.

I find it quite amazing that M35 economy can vary so much. I've posted about this before, but I can get over 700km (~11L/100km) when driven pretty hard, but seem to get somewhat less when dawdling. I think it's got something to do with where the engine is at it's most efficient throttle opening, ie mostly closed is less efficient than mostly open (but not WOT). Sort of why the ultra economy seekers do the burn & glide technique. So choosing the winding old road & having a bit of a go instead of using the new freeway could actually use less fuel as well as being a whole lot more fun. Now it's obvious given the right setup (Jetwreck's for example) that a good tune can turn these cars into reasonably frugal machines, for their size & weight & power output. As to why some suffer exceptionally poor economy (other than due to issues with the common culpits like oxygen sensors etc) I've got no idea..

mmmm.. yeah, too much RED for me, well probably for everyone...

There's a Nissan service bulletin on clicking axles as referred to by a few guys earlier. Maybe there is something in that? I know you said it was coming from the front, but maybe the sound's playing tricks on you... http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=104