Commsman

Genuine Work, but not positive of model since I didn't buy them - I think Emotion tho.

Is that because they are the best? That's what I conclude from this exercise...

Here's mine at standard height. Lowered by maybe an inch should make a significant difference visually. If I was buying wheels from the start I would probably go with 19's (depending on budget) but still with big tyres, ie not ultra low profile. The speedo signal would need to be modified to be accurate (if important to you) but there's no way to fill these guards without lowering & expect to maintain an accurate speedo. The wheels would have to be really big.

Hi Steve, acc pwr should be able to be found at the fuse panel behind the driver's kick panel. There will be quite a few wires, just find one that's easy to work on rather than buried in the back of the loom. The one I found happens to be light blue with a white strip, but that may not be the case (or accessible) for you. When I did my gauge I had the centre console out & picked up the parking light wire from behind my head unit. I had another reason for finding this wire beacuse it annoyed me that when I drove with the parking/headlights on during the day, my GPS display would go into night mode & was almost impossible to see. It took about 15 mins of prodding with a pin & mutilmeter while a helper turned lights on & off to find it. When found, I cut it & extended it to my gauge for the backlight, then back to the headunit via a switch. Now I can control when it goes into night mode, regardless of headlight position. Good luck with the install.

Is your car possesed?

Sure, I'll take one tomorrow & send it to you.

I'm with Brad. The NON Bose version is the one to get. This gives you heaps more options (single or double DIN) and get the factory screen. A digital tuner will cost you ~$250 to get it going if you DIY. I can't remember what the English conversion costs, but PM Brad and ask. I run 245/45 R18's on my M35 & they look OK 'cause they aren't really low profile tyres (better ride with a bit more sidewall IMO) but even these are too small for an accurate speedo reading. Ideally 50 series tyres would be better for me. But if you like the low profile look, then you'd have to go with 19's (or even 20's) & the speedo would still be within acceptable limits. The M35 was designed for big wheels and you need 'em to fill those guards.

I love the "Twin Lambada support". So does it come with a couple of dancing Brazillians?

Wow, at that price I'd bring back a tanker! Up here our 91 Octane E10 is 5c/lt dearer than that.

OK, thanks Dale. Ride comfort is a very subjective thing. Your comfortable ride could be my kidney damaging, wife screaming future I tend to think your ride probably is excellent, but I lack the confidence to just go & buy the BC's with standard spring rates. It a little puzzling why most guys (maybe Iain excluded) run the damper settings pretty close to the soft end of the spectrum. You'd think that if BCR got their product right, the majority of M35 drivers would be on about the middle setting, with the Iain's of the world at the upper end and luxo lovers like me at 5 clicks from soft . I hate the idea driving at full soft and then having no where to go in that direction for those special occasions when comfort is most important. Would 2 or so kg less in spring rates help or just bugger the handling?

So if you like your ride so firm, what setting are you running on? I think I saw where you changed yours from setting 3 to softest setting.. Is that right? If so, that makes the BC's a pretty firm coil over IMO. At the risk of being too far off topic, I'm wanting BC's to lower the car but don't want to impact ride too much. It will already be affected slightly with the swaybars that are coming soon. Can anyone tell me how much ride "quality" is affected by shock valving & how much by spring rates? I can get the BC's with lower spring rates but not shock rates / valving.

According to Just Jap they are 10kgf/mm front and 12kgf/mm rear.

Hi Adam, I spoke to a mate who does A/C for a living and the quoted gas and oil amount sounded feasible. He went into some detail about the whole process, like checking how much oil was removed and what was left in the "catch can" (probably not the right term for it, sorry I forgot what he called it) which would then determine how much oil was to go back in. The 134a gas is the right one for cars from about 2000 onwards. Being JDM, it would probably be OK for cars a little older as well, but that's just my guess.

Yeah, Dale's done a fantastic job organising the GB on the Whiteline swaybars for the M35 owners. Pricing is excellent on a great product and I can't wait for them to arrive to get 'em installed. I'd recommend you chat amongst yourselves to generate some interest, It'd be well worth it. Cheers PS, do I qualify for that discount now Dale?

Well, that was unexpected... I thought you might have had some pics stored away. Thanks for doing that specially for me (us?). Setup looks good. I'll store these away for when I do mine.

Hey Dale, thanks for the suggestions on extras. Have you posted a pic of your custom mount / air duct? I would like to see what you've come up with. I think method 2 is the way to go and your reason above makes a lot of sense. Previously I was only considering implications when cold, but of course it is more important to consider what happens when hot since that is the most common state.

That's an interesting theory Andy. I wonder how long it takes to pump all the oil in the trans thru the cooler/s? If it cycles all the oil in a short time (say a few minutes), then I doubt it would make a measuable difference. If the oil moves around really slowly, then it might gain some heat from the radiator before moving into the transmission. Have you found your gear changes to be any more sluggish, or taking much longer to get up to temp, since installed the cooler?

How easy is this one to install Dale? Does the kit come with enough hose / connectors / adaptors etc, or is a vist to the local parts store still required?

Yep, we both did Maybe it's a case of 'no picture didn't happen' ??? So I pulled off the kick panel & pulled back the carpet & in 30 seconds had this: That's not to say one of the Nissan guys who put your car together got up on the wrong side of the bed that morning and yours is on the other side. But I doubt it. Bugger, look how slow I was scaling the pic. Everyone's moved on... I hope you find the leak.

Behind the panel, that's ambitious. I like it . Sometimes I wish I still had the use of my cubby hole, but then the tuner does look good when you take the cover off... Question? Fire away.

I'm glad that worked out for you Iain. I reckon they work awesome as well (especially for the money). I've seen the TV in a $150,000+ BMW 'limo' which didn't work as well as these ones. What are your placement problems? Did you mount it in the cubby hole closest to the OEM one or try to be different?

I agree with Iain on this one. I've seen the plastic tube for the rear washer on the driver's side in the M35, under the door sill trim. So not the culprit in this case I would think.

Sorry, only just saw this. Umm, tips.... Besides "be nice to your mum", my only tip would be pull the tuner out of the bracket to plug the connecting cable into the socket. On the M35, all the connectors are visible with the tuner bolted to the side of the car. In the V's they sit with the connectors facing away from the boot space. When I was helping Cobey with his install, I tried to plug the lead (individual connectors) into the white socket by feel. Maybe if I had a mirror it would have worked. As it turned out I didn't get the video lead on properly and for a minute were thinking it was all broken. It only takes a few seconds to remove the screws so you can see what you are doing. That's my tip. Everything else is pretty straight forward. Just have to work your way along the car removing the sill trim to run the IR lead & antennas (& battery/earth wires if required) & put it back together.

Now there's an idea! I'll measure up the back to see if one will fit. The vehicles behind would love it if it was faced out the back... .

I think he has/can get an RCA - HDMI cable (or converter) but was concerned about loss of quality going from digital to analog & wanted to keep the signal digital for as long as possible.. I don't think there will be much difference since the OEM screen is low res anyway - unless the idea was to run it into a HD screen