Commsman

It was just confirmed that the manufacturer won't do a small production run (less than 500) of tuners with a HDMI input. They added the AV input to the ones I got becuase that feature was part of the existing chipset & didn't require too much rejigging. I think the HDMI input requires more extensive R & D. Sorry, there's no good news.

Hi Alex The shield / braid of both the audio wires (red & white) are connected together. The shield of the video (yellow) is on a separate pin. This is the layout of the white socket on your tuner: 1________6 2__3__4__5 1 - audio right (red - inner conductor) 2 - audio left (white - inner conductor) 3 - audio ground (shield of both red & white above) 4.- video (yellow - inner conductor) 5 - not used 6 - video shield (yellow - outer sheild) I hope this helps Leon.

If not alarm / immobiliser stuffing up, maybe a battery terminal is not tight. Try giving them a wiggle.

Hey Iain, thanks for the fog light removal / cleaning tips a few posts above .

I'm glad the install was easy. Being in Brisvegas, I'm surprised you don't have perfect reception all the time. Is it just the HD channels that freeze occasionally or even the SD ones? During my testing I didn't see it drop out once, but then I didn't drive everywhere I guess. I think Chook said his (Asuka) worked everywhere that he went. Are you hooking up the hard drive via the USB port? Will it need external power to operate? I'm not sure how much power the tuner USB port supplies.

Where did Benny give you tips on that Iain? Mine are really cloudy too & would love to fix them without stuffing it up.

No touchscreen, but the "button" is displayed on the screen. You just toggle across to it with the joystick & push/enter & you're there. I've not got as far as pulling the dash down so much to have accessed the screen surrounds. It's pretty easy to pull everything out & have the whole centre dash (screen/stereo unit) moved back to where the gear lever is so you can see in behind. As for getting into that apart further, I've not been there, yet. Try searching on G35driver.com if you haven't already. Someone's bound to have done that.

Hi Tim, PM sent.

The tuner is in the boot. LHS when you lift up the "floor", beside your space saver spare. The way it works in a typically car is the AUX in on OEM tuner (white jack) has input for video + L & R audio (the current DVD player is plugged into this now). If you are still running the factory stereo, this will control the sound on the AUX input whilst the vision is displayed on the screen. When you change to an aftermarket head unit you only need to connect the video out to the AUX in port on OEM tuner as the sound will play straight from the head unit to speakers. Have a quick read thru this http://www.skylinesa...reverse-camera/. It has pics that will help you follow what's where etc. There's a few other nice things you can do when you get into it. Lots of fun..

No, not quite. Get an Aust TV tuner and connect that to your OEM one. You need the OEM one to remain or your other screen functions won't work. The new DVD player plugs into the extra AV input on the new TV tuner so you can switch to that for watching movies. 1 screen, 3 functions (fuel economy etc, TV & DVD)

Further to Cobey's post, they seem to work better in some areas than others. I know Brisbane has pretty much 100% coverage. My area is so hilly and miles from the transmitter that I don't get all channels everywhere. The picture will freeze for a bit as I go behind big hills. Most urban areas would provide viewable TV - for your passengers - I would think.

Yep, that's what I think - AUX input at OEM tuner.

I'm glad you told me that. I'll get the money to you sooner now.

Hi Dale how are the numbers stacking up? Do you have enough interest in the GB? (This is a bump I suppose).

Here's my understanding of this after lots of research & trying various "solutions". The ram/s under the seats are to stop submarining in the event of an accident. They could tilt the seat as Iain suggested or, as I'm led to believe, push the front foam cushion up under your thighs to stop you sliding forward into the footwell. Same result in the end. I can't actually tell physically where they live under the seat since mine are gone & I just have the yellow connectors swinging in the breeze. The fix that has worked on some cars (notably GTRs) was for a 2.2 ohm resistor, but this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ht-t340591.html shows guys going for this u-turn harness http://gt-rr.com/pro..._harness&id=761. I actually bought these ones http://www.tunersgro...rn_harness.html for my M35. They even took exact details of my car to make sure of compatibility. The interesting thing is they don't show up any resistance when measured with a mutimeter...... The result? Nothing worked in my case , but I would be happy to send the Works Bell u-turn harnesses to anyone who wishes to try them out. I'm still waiting on a spare SRS module from some guy with a wrecked one, just to see if my problem is bigger than the harness can fix.

Yeah, I bought a heap of their kits a while back as I think they're (mostly) great value & I love DIY I'll let you know how it goes if I can get time to put it in.

Great info, thanks Scott. Like you say, it may just be that the stock turbo can handle more boost if they get the proper supply of oil. I'll be checking for any gunk in mine ASAP.

Solenoid in battery box. I must remember that - thanks, I like it! Yes, the inside shape of that compartment varies considerably in profile. What did you use to cut out the shape?

That's a neat install guys. I'm impressed. I didn't realise the unit was that small. No probs with fitting it in there at all by the looks.

For some reason the song "The devil went down to Georgia" springs to mind. But I digress.

Mmmm, 300% increase. Sounds like Scott Thanks Scott. You posted at same time. I will check that it is clear in the first instance. Maybe discuss improvements later...

I'd love to know where exactly this is so i could check. Is it on the block or turbo? Is it recommended to drill the hole out to (say) 1.5mm or does that cause other problems? I'm very keen to make the std turbo last as long as possible and, given your results, it doesn't look like I need to put up with low power. Not saying I will run boost that high though.

It's just a simple Jaycar kit. (KC5435).

That's very impressive. How long would you expect the stock turbo to last at those pressures? So much has been written about short life expectancy if over 14psi. Is this temporary return to stock a bit of an experiment where you don't care if it lets go Scotty?

Just thought I'd add my 2c with my recent experience. Finally hooked up my new boost gauge by taking the rubber hose from the factory sensor (attached to the nipple on the manifold) & feeding it into the nylon tube going to the gauge. Not sure of the accuracy of my Pricol gauge, but since it's 270 degrees from 0 - 15 psi, the resolution is very good. Boost went up to 14psi & sat there until close to redline whereby it dropped off to 11.5 psi, maybe to aid with smooth gear changes??? Can anyone confirm? Since this is a stock RS, where does that leave the theory that max stock boost is ~11.6psi? Is this a case of the standard gauge being too hard to read / inaccurate, or maybe mine is inacurate by 2.5psi?