Commsman

The thread (link above) is now updated with some very basic info to help everyone with the DIY. More detail to come in the next few days. Please feel free to ask questions there or continue to PM me for more info and/or help.

Step 6:- Test operation In its simplest form, your new digital tuner should now be operational. By selecting the AUX on your front screen/buttons, you should see the setup menu and be able to configure your new tuner (using the remote) to output NTSC, set the correct resolution and scan for TV signals. Stay tuned later for further steps that will make your TV operation easier & more enjoyable.

Step 5:- Connect new tuner to OEM AUX in Plug the connecting lead from the new tuner (RCA outputs) to the AUX in (white connector) on the OEM tuner. M35 V35 You can make a cable in about 30 minutes or so by cutting a RCA lead & soldering on connectors taken from an old computer. I can also send you one that looks a bit like this, though I've since used heat shrink around the whole thing to strengthen it & make it look a little better.

Step 4 :- Connect Infrared Receiver While you have the door sill and other trim off, lay the IR cable along and place the receiver end where it will be easy to aim a remote control at. Most people stick it just above the passenger side kick panel. I put mine at the top of the passenger side B pillar so my back seat passengers could easily use the remote. Also, my lead was only 3m long & wouldn't reach to the front . I requested 5m long leads for the production models so you can choose the best position.

Step 3 :- Connect antennas If you have a M35 with factory antennas, cut off the original connectors and combine 2 into one new F-type connector. I recommend soldering the twisted inner conductors to provide greater strength. The antennas are powered and so require 12V to work. I left mine powered from the OEM tuner (they work OK) but some previous installations haven't worked properly when done this way. It is therefore recommended to connect the power wires on/from the antennas to your new 12V supply wire. You will need to cut a hole in the side of the plastic cubby hole for the antennas and other cables. Make sure it is in a good position due to the short length. Up high is probably best. A holesaw or even a stanley knife will cut through the plastic. If you have a V35, you will need to use the supplied powered antennas. These seem to work best when placed on the front & back windscreens. You will need to run a coax cable under the trim on the A pillar and back under the door sill trim panel. Likewise, run the coax for the rear antenna under the C pillar trim and into the boot.

Step 2 :- Get 12V & Earth You can use the 12V that powers the OEM tuner, but I recommend running a dedicated power cable from the front fuse panel (behind kick panel in driver footwell). You are less likely to overload the existing wiring (not really a big chance though) and will have extra capacity if you need more power for other devices later. When you consider that you need to run other cables to the front, you might as well put the power wire in at the same time. BTW, accessory power is OK. Unlike the Asuka tuner, these don't lose their station memories when you turn the power off. The earth connection is as simple at putting the wire under a convenient screw/bolt that makes a good connection to the chassis. Use a eyelet style connector on the end.

I've decided to put together some info to help you DIY. It'll be pretty basic to start with but I'll add more as questions are asked. If anyone else wants to contribute, please feel free to do so. I've not done a V35 install (yet) so I've borrowed pics from other threads. I hope to have some of my own in a short while. The steps will be numbered so anyone can add a part A or B etc if sub steps are wanted with more detail. Cheers, Leon Step 1 :- Locate your OEM tuner M35 - LHS V35 - In boot

Cool, thanks Dale. That was as succinct an answer as I could have asked for. Much clearer now. I'll wait to hear more about the prices of all the goodies before deciding which way I will go.

You're right. All I ever hear from Scotty is that there's not enough room for a decent turbo. Just look at the size of those boxes and still some room to spare.....

Hey Alex, that looks like the easiest turbo install ever. Step 1) Place cardboard boxes in rear of wagon. Step 2) Done Can't wait for the extended version. Good luck.

When you get a chance, can you clarify what I actually need to buy to install the sway bars? Now we're talking links and heavy duty mounts. Anything else (nuts & bolts, rubber do-dads)? I think I read before that something broke on a car (yours?) and maybe that is why there is now a heavy duty version. Are these extras neccessary or just desirable for longevity? PS, my quip before about using up excess stock of bar should have had a smiley after it. I know Whiteline wouldn't do that..

Hey Dale, you always write a good post. I'm interested in these. How do they compare with the group buy you ran in December? I notice the last ones were 30mm front (now 32mm) and 24mm rear (now 20mm). Do you think Whiteline and the previous manufacturer have different views on what size works best? Maybe the design is more critical than the bar diameter? Or maybe it's as simple as "we've got excess stock of this size material so should use it up....." I'm guessing these would be a great improvement over stock, but curious as to what you've heard. Two quick questions to finish: If you were to do just one 'end' due to financial restrictions, would it be front or rear (or not recommended)? And lastly, at what point in the process would pricing be firmed up & will freight costs kill off potential savings? Thanks, Leon.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who had an awkward first time... As I pulled into the servo I was running my hand around under the seat etc & finding nothing. I pulled into a parking space rather than at the pump so I could pretend I wasn't looking for how to open the flap, lol. I had to call someone too. I mean, on a car that has electric everything, who would guess you had to press the corner of the flap?

Hey Ironpaw, that's a long list of work you've had done to you car over the last few days. I love it how everyone chips in to help. I feel all lonely up here with the only M35 in the area. Anyway, it sounds like you're progressing well, and fast. Look forward to the reading about the rest of the mods.

It should be there tomorrow, if Aussie post do the right thing. Let me know if I can help with the install.

Hey Brett, does that include one that I've got? I scanned a few pages to try copying sections into an online translator but it didn't work. Can I send it to you? Cheers, Leon.

Well, I'll be damned . I've never seen that bit of plastic before. Tried it & sure enough it locks. That's one of the things I love about these cars; always something new to learn

Excellent! I'll have a look and see if mine's been tampered with. Maybe I just need to extend a wire down to the OBDII connector somewhere to get the speed to register on the Info Meter. I'll be in touch...

Ahhh... see I've never tried that lol. I do know that there's nothing visible on the inside of the filler area, but I guess that doesn't mean it's not lockable in some other way. Will have to try another day as 300km away from my car right now.

Andy told me it was about $320 delivered. That makes it a pretty good deal if it does the whole cruise control thing well. I don't particularly care about the throttle sensitivty control, although it could be an interesting toy to play with for a while. I'm still investigating the integrated 'factory look' cruise but it won't be as cheap as that. Maybe it's not worth worrying about. Re the speed wire and CAN; there must have a separate speed wire somewhere cause my info meter doesn't display speed (or anything using speed to calculate like gear position etc) yet all the other info is gathered via the CAN bus (after I reconnected a critical wire in the OBDII connector). I'd be keen to know where this wire is also.

OK, this is going to sound pretty stupid. You've got a locking mechanism???? All I do is push the edge of the cover and it opens. There is no solenoid/lever/button or anything.

Sorry, my bad. I didn't send you anything. Tuners have gone out to 3 or 4 guys & I was talking to you about the throttle controller / cruise control and got all confused.

Didn't your voice go hoarse after a while, yelling PSSSSHHHHHHHHHH out the window?

I'm glad you think so. Many hours over many weeks trying to get good hardware at the right price. I take it the one I sent you has arrived?

I've only ever seen HDMI out on car tuners, sorry. However, I can ask the manufacturer if they could do one for you. This exquisite one (sorry, I just love it on their brochure) never came with the AV input originally. That was a mod they did for me so we could run other devices thru it. They modded 2 samples and had them to me to test in about a week! Let me get back to you on that one. Edit - can you do without the AV input? ie if they changed it so that the HDMI connector was an input (not output) and it didn't have the AV input would that do? Or do you want it as it is PLUS a HDMI input?