Commsman

When I installed my reverse camera I decided to connect the pop up display to the tuner as well as my double din Eclipse. I figured when reversing it would be better to not look down too much. It took me a minute to work out why the pop up display looked so crap (NTSC - check, ahh resolution). Funnily enough, when I dropped it down to 480 lines (I think) and it worked, the HD Eclipse still looked pretty good. It's not quite as easy to read the headlines scrolling across the bottom of the screen as it was in 1080p, but in general it's OK. I figured it's only a few remotes clicks away from restoring the HD if it ever ticked me off. RE the HD channels, the tuner still receives them OK. It just transmits them to the screen in whatever format you require.

Yeah, you and Aaron should get in on the group buy and save yourselves 38 cents. Oops, I've said too much....

Get the one carbon one that filters out ozone. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/129786-air-con-filter/page__pid__5429174__st__60#entry5429174 I thought the great big hole in the sky was letting all the ozone out, but apparently there's still some down here & it's not good to breathe

Hi Brad. Thanks for you input. When you say you can remove the video block, you mean as an extra job whilst you are doing the english conversion, right? I was never offered this as part of my my english conversion.

Hi Josh. Just PM me your address & I will post one out to you. If you just want the TV tuner it will cost $245 to get it to you (or if you are driving south past Byron Bay you could pick it up & save the postage!). Since your car is an M35, at the very least you should get the F-type connectors (2 of for an extra $2.60) so you can use the factory antennas for best results. If you have some multi strand wire laying around then you probably don't need much else. You can always add a switch to bypass the in motion cut off, a USB extension cable, reverse camera or RCA leads for an Ipod connection later on. There's lots of nice options you can look at doing. You can get some great tech mods done in an afternoon that make you driving experience so much better than driving some old Volvo

Hi everyone. The tuners are here and I've assembled a few extras to help with the installation. I've posted the details on the Stagea forum since that's where most of the TV talk seemed to be. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/356219-tv-tuners-once-again-the-new-asuka/ I look forward to hearing from you. I'll PM those who expressed prior interest later. Cheers, Leon.

Some useful links to help with the installation or just to get some ideas of what others have done. Pretty much search on Asuka in this forum for heaps of info. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347479-fitting-an-asuka-tv-tuner-in-a-m35/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/184366-diy-put-av-input-for-350gt-wo-reverse-camera/page__hl__diy+ipod+frank http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/203961-stagea-series-2-m35-digital-tv-upgrade/page__hl__asuka

One thing I didn't try to offer to supply was a switch to force the OEM tuner to the auxillary input. Everyone would want something different, depending one where you wanted to mount it & personal preference. I decided to use a blanked off switch position, the only one I had left, to put 3 small switches. the top one is for the TV. Whenever it is flicked over it puts an earth on the C1 terminal & the tuner is displayed on the factory screen. Turn it off & I can see the fuel consumption green leaf or compass etc.

Most people will also want to feed the video & audio signals into the OEM tuner so that it displays on the factory screen and plays thru the sound system. You can make these yourself if you're a little bit handy. This is the one I made for my setup, but it's only for the video since my sound is via an aftermarket system & connects via AV (RCA) leads. If you would like me to make one up for you, please ask. The price for a full set (3 x RCA) will probably be $40, but that may change if I find it taking too long. I would encourage anyone to have a go themselves. There's a few threads/posts around that discuss this & I'll try & link them at the end.

I have an Eclipse double DIN screen that I needed to connect to the tuner (video also goes to factory screen) so I needed a 5m RCA-RCA cable. The tuner comes with a cable but it's not long enough to reach the length of the car so I bought one from here http://www.4cabling....o-Cable-5m.html & it turned out to be really good quality for ~$15. As an aside, they can take a few days longer than you'd expect for shipping. The normal mounting spot for Stageas is in the rear cubby hole adjacent to the OEM tuner, but space can be limited. When I plugged in the RCA lead, I thought the bend radius to be too tight, especially for the heavy duty video coax (see pic). To save kinking this cable I used right angle RCA adaptors. I you are thinking of using a space like this, these could come in handy. You can buy them online or I have them for $1 each.

A relay or 2 can come in handy depending on what else you want to control. I used one when I put in a reverse camera so that it applied an earth to the C1 (or Cont1) terminal to force the screen to the auxillary input. If you are not sure if you need one, just let me know what you are wanting to do & I'll see if I can offer advice. I may look at posting some diagrams later of how to wire up for typical applications. Anyway, I have relays with the wired bases available for $5 each (Jaycar's 10+ price is nearly double that!) so let me know if you need any when ordering.

You can power the tuner from the OEM tuner's power, but I think dedicated power is better. When I did mine, I ran a power cable from a 15A circuit in the front driver's footwell fuse box. You can use this 12V supply for other things later also. I figure you've got to run the IR lead to the front, so it's not much harder to throw the power wire in at the same time. And an earth wire for locking the OEM tuner to the aux input (so it works all the time, even when moving) is a great idea too. So, here's the wire & connector pack if you need it. BTW, soldered and taped connections work best. But some of these connectors can come in handy, especially when trying to tap into a cable right down in the footwell as it's a bugger to solder down there. What do you get for your $8? 6m of black & 6m of red hook up cable (16 x 0.30) 3m of white (not sure why, but it may come in handy) 2 x eyelets for connecting an earth under a screw 2 x quick wire connectors 4 x 3-way scotch-loks

I love DIY, so to make the intall as easy & cost effective as possible I put together some items that you may need. For Stagea owners with factory antennas, you'll need 2 F-type connectors. These $1.30 each (Jaycar's 10+ price) and I will add them to the box with the tuner if you ask.

Hi everyone the new tuners are finally in. Testing shows they perform the same (or better in some situations) than the Asuka tuner. They cost $230 plus $15 postage. What's in the box? Gold anodised tuner & mounting brackets power lead (cigarette lighter lead not required) 2 powered antennas 5m infra red receiver lead remote control AV lead (3 x RCA connectors each end) AV input lead (RCA connectors to headphone style plug that goes into tuner) If you live in Sydney or southern states, you can contact Andy (Andy65b) to buy one or ask about help with the install if you need to. Likewise, if you live in Adelaide or western states, you can contact Brad (ducati02) for the same. Cheers Leon.

Yeah, I reckon that counts . I love what happens when you click on the link. It says "Sorry an inventory issue has ocurred". Interesting way of saying the car has been sold.

Nice car Andrew. I can imagine it looks a bit cleaner now that you removed the unwanted advertising. The last owner was a real sticker whore hey.

That's great that you suffered no damage. So the big guards just take the hit without matking? That's impressive. It's been said before, but why have so many regulars on here had incidents since this thread was started? I think it should be banned. BTW, for damage that was hard to pick from a distance, the quotes for my repairs were just over $1700. I hope to get it fixed soon.

In my mind, better efficiency = better economy BUT only if measured under same driving conditions. So for example, the new suction pipe teamed up with big exhaust should return better economy if driven as the same speed or rate of acceleration as before. The hard part is to not use the extra "efficiency" all the time which would wipe out most/all the economy gains

Have you worked out L/100kms now? And from memory there's at least 20L left in the tank when the light comes on. Your previous figures are about the worst I've seen!

What sort of tradie would use someone else's car as scaffold? What a joke. That guy needs running over.

So that's what that does (just tested it). I unplugged mine when chasing to see why my infometer wouldn't work and it threw up a 4WD light. I never unplugged it with the ignition on tho. It looks so aftermarket & not factory at all, unless my connector is different. In the end I had to take a wire from this connector & feed it back into the ODBII plug to allow the infometer to pick up the CAN signal, so mine must have been changed at some stage. Nice find, thanks.

One other thing, just because I was a asked not to post the actual discount doesn't mean it's a big discount. It's not. It's not even 3 figures, which is sorta crap. The question was raised, I made a coupla calls and posted the result, that's all. I'm not going to try to convince anyone so that I can get a good deal. Hell, I'm happy paying retail price on these 'cause they are such good value by all accounts. (mmm, unless is a case of 'come on in, the water's fine' and then the jokes on me ) This suedo GB is only going to suit those who are in the market for BC's now (or in the next few weeks) and were going to buy them anyway. It's nowhere near enough discount to make someone think they'd better jump in now instead of waiting 3 months like planned. It is, however, better than a slap in the face (marginally). For the next week or two (maybe) I'll PM the info to anyone that asks, but don't feel you've got to reply saying 'no' or 'is that all?" etc. Trust me, I understand. (And no probs to those who have already let me know ) Cheers, Leon

Fair point re group buy rules. Didn't think of that. Well, for starters, I could ask Iain (nicely) if I could run it over at m35stagea, but I still couldn't mention the price there either... It could just end up being a case of a bunch of blokes emailing each other to arrange the details and doing if 'off the record'. In any case, everyone who has posted since I wrote about my conversation now has a PM with the details. Feel free to get back to me if it looks worthwhile. Anyone else who wants to know just has to ask. They didn't say I couldn't tell everyone, just not to leave it up in internet land for everyone who searches for the next 20 years to find.

I had a little book that I pasted in a typed sheet for any "event", be it an oil change, tune or even wheel alignment. Did this on a 4 door R33 that I had back in the 90's, before every ricer had one (no offense to anyone who may have one now). It was only 2 years old when I got it(20K kms) and more expensive than the M35, even tho it was a SUTI vehicle for my impoter, so I wanted to keep good records. When I sold it years later at the same import place, amongst a whole yard full of really nice cars, it was the log book that sealed the deal! I'd recommend it to anyone.

I contacted Just Jap (spoke with Tony) who are the only authorised importer ATM. They don't want to get involved with a group buy for a few reasons, but mainly because the range is very well priced (which I tend to think as well) and I reckon they'd rather look after their distributors. Tony then indicated that maybe their distributor in Melb (Jap Wharehouse) might be interested. Jap Wharehouse doesn't have any pricing on their website so I gave them a call to ask (spoke with Kenz) and sure enough they are happy to look after a group buy as long as the pricing isn't posted publicly (ie here). Also, to make it worthwhile they can't ship each set to a different location (unless we get maybe 10 people interested, then they might) so it would probably have to be that all sets for Sydney go to one place, and likewise Brissy etc. Maybe Melbourne buyers could pick theirs up from Jap warehouse directly or, again, all go to a central location. When I say "all". it's probably only going to be 2 or 3 sets at most to each spot. So someone may have to receive all the sets for their city and then co-ordinate distribution. That may work out OK if there was a meet arranged and the others attended. Anyone in the country (ie me) may have to pay a little extra to get it shipped directly, pick up from closest capital city or hope that there is enough people interested to get the same free shipping deal that you get with full price. Since I am in the market for a set, I suppose I can gather interested parties names and them PM everyone with details. Please bear in mind that due to the already keen pricing the discount is not going to be huge. Oh, and if you want anything different in the way of spring rates etc, they will need to know before hand. If you want more than a couple of kg's change to standard they will have the shocks revalved at the factory to suit.