Commsman

It's come a long way since I saw it. Was buried so deep amongst other 'project' cars that I didn't think it'd see the light of day.

Geez mate, now your testing my memory, lol. I think initially I had to go digging up top like you, near the high mount stop light. I ran a wire down the passenger side & in behind the side panel where my TV tuner is. I used this to power the reverse camera as well as switch the display input. Then, more recently, I connected into this same wire for the Pin55 reset, so didn't actually see the reverse light wire as such. I could look at the manual to see what colour it should be, but pretty easy for you to test it by probing it with a pin.

For anyone still unsure, see pic below looking at wire side. Corner pin numbered to help with orientation,

Mate, you've done some visual mods since I last saw it. Good to see red stripe now instead of pink. Coz racecar

Sure, lol. In the meantime I'll PM you some detailed pics.

Not likely to be the battery then, but could have been the loose terminal. I know my neg battery terminal is slightly too small for the clamp (even when tight it could be moved by hand). I wrapped copper wire around the terminal & then pressed the clamp over. Now it's tight when done up & has not given me any more trouble. I doubt the TCU would allow the gearbox to drop into a gear lower than it could handle at any given road speed (the speed wire goes in/out of the TCU so it would 'know'). Just a theory:- the loose battery connection caused your car to think the battery wasn't up to the task when you flicked on high beam, so dropped the gears down to produce higher revs for alternator to boost current. Could be way off, but let us know if it does/doesn't come back so we can all learn/help more etc.

Did you want C34 manual or M35 ones?

Def pink wire with blue trace. I pulled mine apart just now & it is pin 55 in the centre - green plastic block on the connector.

Further to what Scotty (quite rightly) said, also think about getting your battery tested if it's older than a few years. I've seen a slightly tired battery cause 'weird' issues that only came good after it was replaced. I've never had a car before where a dud battery caused the most random symptoms. Hope you get it sorted.

4 cars or people? We had 4 last time, but only 2 cars, & 2 cars doesn't make a cruise IMO.

How did the cruise go Ray? Anyone show up?

You'll be right mate. Late comers get all the benefit of others' experience. Even though some have had problems with (multiple) AFMs, many have had none. Plus any day now I'm sure there will be a cheap solution if you do have issues. Post up some pics when you get your new car

^ yeah, what Dale said. That pic was taken from a manufacturers' website & isn't neccesarily what ours looks like; it's a representation only. In any case, I don't think many people have the tools & skills to fault find & repair SMD circuits. 'Through-hole' circuit boards & components are the sort most lay-people work on (think Jaycar kits), but those would make our AFM 5 times as big.

Full of surface mount components.

IMO, the best way is to bulk buy from China as prices are so cheap. You don't worry about warranty, just carry a spare. Some I saw "guarantee" theirs for 12 months or 50,000km, lol. But why would you send it back when they cost so little? I'd look at it as disposable like an air filter, lol. Anyway Scotty & ChrisB look like that's what they're doing, so hold tight till they report back success

Reply from Ebay seller: 10+ for $75 each 20+ for $70 each 30+ for $65 each That price includes postage to one address only. Someone would have to repackage / post to everyone else, so maybe an extra $3-$4e. Scotty, see how you go with your hunt in China. I'll make some enquiries as well. I think a better price is out there.

Contacted Ebayer to ask for bulk buy pricing, just in case he wants to unload 20 or 30 real cheap.

Hey Scotty, I was thinking of sending one to my contacts in China to see if they could get it manufactured for a couple of dollars. Would need to buy a few thousand, but if everyone bought 5 or 6 they get used up pretty quickly. It wouldn't matter if they lasted 6-12 months either, if they were that cheap (change with the oil, lol) However, the risk is they could be as bad as the Nissan ones & then we'd all be annoyed, even if they only cost 5 bucks. Hey Dale, keep us posted on your experience with the Ebay one. Maybe we could do a deal with that guy for a bulk order?

^ & sometimes not because of the colour....

Sounds like limp mode. Most likely culprit is AFM.

My solution even cheaper. I used a label machine to print out the desired km's & stuck it on the front plastic. It doesn't change, but gives me the fuzzies when I see my car's only done 26K !

Yep, exactly the same. Essentially I have this setup (as well as reverse lights) via a key switch. When on it gives me the valet setting, ie 12V on pin55 permanently, to limit throttle. When off it operates as normal & CEL is kept off by 12V from reverse lights. If you had a 12V ignition source on a switch, you could leave it on when you drop the car to the mechanic. Then you'd be relatively sure the apprentice isn't going hooning on the test drive

Yes, just take a feed off the reverse lights (check for 12V when in Rev, & nothing when not) & put this into Pin55 on ECU. Nothing else is required. NB, you may still get a CEL if you go for a long highway drive (I can leave home & not stop for 600km+), but under normal conditions you should go into reverse often enough - or stop at R for a few seconds on way to D, if utilising drive in-drive out parking a lot.

And it that doesn't work, there's always the proven methods. Bit of a bummer 'cause it would have been the easiest way to do this mod.