Commsman

Try this first: http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=206&p=4015&hilit=idle+relearn#p1899

Changed oil in 3 cars today. None of them was my Stagea. Grrr.

IMO you won't be able to safely run 19psi on pump gas under all climatic conditions - need higher octane or slower burn (E85) for that. 16psi is as high as I'd go, unless you have IEBC that can change boost at different IDC or rpm, but even then it's getting risky.

If you don't want to install a 'valet' switch then you don't need a diode when you connect any 12V source, be it from reverse lights, another pin on the ECU or anywhere else. Ideally a 12V source close to ECU is best. Just need one that is 12V only at times when you don't need full throttle; eg reversing or starting the car. The only location for reverse lights that I have found is at the rear, so not very convenient (although I already had a spare wire left over from TV install) & the start signal on the ECU is certainly convenient, but Scotty thinks it may not be active long enough to keep the code clear (although I think it should be OK 'cause when mine put out a CEL it would only take a few seconds with the switch thrown & pedal pushed to clear it). Why don't you give it a go & let us know? If you do the mod you should know in 500km or so. Cutting one wire & joining it to another seems to be the simplest idea we've come up with so far.

I wonder if that had something to do with my issue? Stao told me to drill mine to 4mm.

There's no way to put a keyring on that one you linked Dale. So you'd have a rectangular key fob (nearly as big as the original key anyway, lol) floating around separate to everything else. Still a good way of refreshing the old keys though I suppose.

Mmm, I think you're right re AXIS & ARX only coming with AC integrated into the (Bose?) stereo, but I'm no expert so someone else will need to confirm. Even so, if those cars are what you like, don't worry - if something breaks it is possible to change it over. Look for the best car for you rather than incidental stuff. Yeah, more activity here. Itsnotavolvo is more a storage of how-to guides & other good info.

Hi Ben If you're not concerned by the fuel consumption then you're more than halfway to buying one. Factory turbo's are a bit of a lottery. Some people have had no issues after years of ownership, but most people will recommend budgeting for a rebuild in the near future & then you won't be disappointed. I really like the looks of the Axis model, but even the ARX with its big guards can look good OK. It's all subjective in that regard, but modifying any of the models is the same. Re the gadgets, there isn't a hard & fast rule. Some of the lower spec models can still come with all the gadgets - depends what boxes were ticked initially. My RS had the nav/TV option, electric leather & sunroofs - not that I would especially buy one with all those again, but just mentioned as an example. All the luxo comes at a price (weight). My suggestion re the stereo would be to find a car without the integrated audio/AC. You can change it out for a standard DD if you want to upgrade the audio later (or it fails), but much harder & more expensive than if you get the single din & instrument cluster in the first place. The best bit about buying one is this community. It's the most helpful of any I've seen. If you are a bit handy & don't mind getting your hands dirty occasionally, the total cost of ownership of the M35 can be really low as general servicing is very easy. And if you're looking to upgrade, there's guys on here (as you would know) that can make &/or fit all sorts of stuff that will give you excellent bang-for-buck. Good luck with your car hunting. Keep an eye on here & M35stagea.info for cars being sold. There's been some amazing ones recently for excellent prices. Cheers, Leon.

They must be slow off the mark then, lol.

Do V35's have the same throttle limitation as our 25DET's? That's news to me.

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V. But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes? DIY instructions: 1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end. 2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact). 3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up. Job done Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

Found this. Looks like that signal is the opposite of what we want. Bummer 'cause that would have made it pretty easy.

That could work, but I can't find any info as to what that signal is & CBB checking it myself. The voltages from the switch to the TCM won't work (looked at those before).

It has to be cut completely so the ECU doesn't "see" 12V when you put your foot on the brake. As long as the ECU occasionally sees 12V (approx every 400km) it won't know any different. That is why you need to either a) wire via a switch to restore the connection (put foot on brake, CEL goes out, open switch again), or b) wire to alernative 12V source that comes on during normal driving but won't interfere with you making use of the mod, ie the reverse lights. The only restriction if following b) above is - you can't launch with full throttle in reverse, lol. I think we can live without that

You're right - even though the correct ECU pin number is probably written 2 or 3 times in this thread & many more times in others, someone is bound to get it wrong. As you've hinted, we've already seen an example of a car being sold with a switch that disabled a pink/blue wire on the TCU, lol. Good thing is pin 59 is probably not populated in our ECU wiring, so that should cause a rethink if anyone blindly follows my drawings. But I'm still ashamed of my gaff Maybe Rich, but not sure it's that simple. One of the wires on the brake assembly emits 12V when pedal is pushed (we used this to cancel the cruise control) & I think this is used to light the brake lights (prob via a relay). But when Pin 55 is cut, the brake lights still work, so probably comes off a different control/relay. You can try it if you like - it'd be interesting to know - but since it's quite simple to find & work on at the ECU I'm not sure it's worth the effort.

Thanks Scotty, I should have looked it up properly before posting those pics, lol. Hopefully the diagrams are still helpful to someone - just note my error & cut the right wire

For what's it's worth, I've knocked up a few pictures. These are very simple circuits, but sometimes a picture is worth more than a heap of text. 1. In it's simplest form. Switch required to clear CEL 2. Better because resets automatically. NB. Can use any temporary source of 12VDC. 3. Optional valet switch (anti-hoon) upgrade. Diode required so reverse lights don't come on when valet switch operated. And lastly, the ECU diagram (again) for those who don't have it. ECU_PINOUTS 13_12_10.PDF Cheers, Leon.

A quick point on the above questions, I had been thinking about the easiest/best way to achieve this. One of my early thoughts was to use the ECU wire that sent the CEL signal. It would be sef healing - brake wire mod causes CEL, CEL output resets Brake wire input, CEL extinguishes. Win! However, the CEL output is a 5V signal whereas the brake wire input requires 12V to reset. So I had a quick scan thru convenient ECU pins & couldn't find anything suitable. Other switches are an earth on so also not suitable (not sure about all listed above). In the end I connected mine to the reverse lights (already found for reverse camera) so reset every time I go into (or past) reverse gear. I used the opportunity to install my 'Valet switch' at the same time, so needed a diode to stop reverse lights coming on when activated. Josh, not sure if there's a diagram as such, but it's Pin 59 on the ECU if you have the pinout PDF.

Hi Dale. Since I want mine in silver I'm happy to wait for the next batch & get an unpainted one. Or I'll just paint over the black.... Either way I'll take one when you're ready.

Selected our vehicle in the compatibility drop boxes, got this result: This item does not fit the 2002 Nissan Stagea Turbo M35 (2001 - 2003) AWD Wagon lol.

The kit does include everything (both stalk & steering buttons etc) but unfortunately won't be $490 this time. There is a lot of extra work for me in making the wiring harness, providing help/advice for installs & (not least of all) a fair bit of risk in ordering & paying for these (see earlier post) that I believe earns me the right to make a little money this time. The price won't be set until I know what they will cost me landed on Oz but, given the exchange rate is still pretty good, I anticipate it will be less than $600 delivered. That is still excellent value IMO (especially if you DIY), given the quality of the CC (fully customisable) & with the backlit buttons. But if that puts it out of reach for anyone, please feel free to let me know.

Yeah, but as Dale was saying, you can't compare spring rates between different cars because of varying suspension geometry. 6kg/mm might be really stiff on one car but too soft on another, regardless of vehicle mass.

You kidding? 1/8 mile is the M35 event. 4WD out of the hole & it's all over before the other guys get a chance to catch up, lol. No he wasn't racing - we were spectators today. Maybe another time..

Got the audio controls on my steering wheel working with my head unit. Just 2 wires to connect together & another one to ground then store the functions in the memory. No fancy conversion box required in my case. It sounds so simple when I read this back, lol. There were lots of hours of searching, reading, prodding & measuring to get to the point of 5 minutes of soldering & crimping. Been meaning to do this for 18+ months - thanks Rich (richzx) for the motivation to get off my bum & do it .

Saw Rosella today at the 1/8 mile drags in Casino. Nice to meet you mate.