maxim

Thanks mate, I'll be sad to see it go

bump

That looks more like the specs for a NA 1.8 - my old Integra made 96kw with 168nm!!! I think its more like 132kw's....

am considering selling my 180sx for financial reasons. This car past registration only a week ago. Comes FULLY engineered so everything is legal. I am in the ACT. Basic: 1991 Nissan 180sx Black Veilside front bar and sideskirts 18" Chrome wheels with 215/35ZR front and 225/40ZR18 rear (18x7) Tyres tread 95% rear, 90% front (where 10% is bald) Odom reads 109954 Engine kms ~100,000 Alarm with keyless entry fitted Mechanical: RB25DET engine fitted in good condition Timing belt replaced ~500km ago All other belts replaced ~500km ago NGK Plantnium spark plugs fitted ~200km ago Spitfire Coils Aftermarket clutch fitted. Can't remember brand (XTR maybe?) fitted with engine ~2000km ago. No slip, good feel. New Bosch battery fitted ~200 ago (cost $90) Bosch 600hp fuel pump fitted (cost $350) Water pump replaced ~500km ago RB20 Gearbox fitted (MUCH cheaper to repair/replace than RB25. Good for 250rwkw) Air pod fitted Front mounted intercooler fitted, roughly good for 400hp Brakes upgraded to SR20 Turbo spec 3" Exhaust from the dump back (Stock dump) with 4" muffler (sounds great. maybe illegal noise so a restrictor plate is included for rego) Std height king springs front, standard rear. Suspension otherwise standard Standard BOV Larger radiator fitted ~500km ago (cost $350) Interior: Speco Boost gauge mounted @ A-Pillar Aftermarket steering wheel (Smaller, more 'sporty') Good quality cd head deck with four good quality 6x9 speakers. Minor damage to front bar from scraping a gutter. Have been quoted ~$150 to repair. Minor dent ontop of front right panel. Around 5cm in diameter, 1cm deep. NO paint chipped, quoted ~$150 to repair occued with flex from above incident. Currently at standard boost. With 12psi 170rwkw-185rwkw should be achieveable. Rb25's are widley regarded to handle 250rwkw on stock internals, all you need is a bigger turbo and ecu + injectors (around $3500-$4000). Paint condition good. Does have some minor scratches that would come out with good polish. Again, is completely engineered by AKZ Vehicle Engineering in Canberra. Certificate number JWW 1751 MLVV pics. taken some months ago (may not include current items) www.brabarus.com/180pics/a1.jpg www.brabarus.com/180pics/a2.jpg www.brabarus.com/180pics/a3.jpg www.brabarus.com/180pics/a4.jpg www.brabarus.com/180pics/a5.jpg Looking for $16,500. Comes with 3months rego. Feel free to contact me for more details.

Hey Sydneykid, I'll go through all your suggestions. Appreciate your advice, your a great asset to the forum.

Hey Sydneykid, thanks for your input. A mechanic friend of mine conducted the test while I was not present today. The engine is otherwise stock, with a new battery (Bosch unit) installed only a week ago. Just one more quick question if thats cool, so far the car (91 180sx with rb25 conversion) has been performing pretty poorly. Only mods are a fmic (flow roughly 400hp size) 3" system from back of dump (dump standard) and ~600hp Bosch intake pump. New plantinum sparks plugs gapped to .8mm were added last week also. The engine also has spitfire coils which came with it. The best 0-100 v stopwatch (g-tech is coming) is 6.5s which is pretty average from about 10 runs but was consistant. Thats with a variety of launch techniques and I don't think im a shit driver. The fuel comsumption is terrible. Last top up of 20l lasted around 100km's. My mechanic was trying to determine if the knock sensor was faulty, thus retarding timing and increasing AFR when he found the std computer did not have the LED (?) lights (not 100% sure on this) to read / extract codes from. Just wondering if you simply name a couple of things to look at next. The car's power delivery seems very linear. I raced a friend in a CA 180sx (his std bar exhaust, std boost) and beat him by only 2 lenghts to ~140 so any help would be great! Appreciate any comments, thanks.

Hey chris, thanks for your reply. yeah I think i remember you saying that in another thread. Just wanted to be 100% sure though. cheers

Hey guys, What is a good compression in psi for an RB25det? Reason I just had mine tested and it ranged from 130-140psi. Seems low? Thanks

Hey guys, don't mean to steal your post but what is a good measure for a RB25 turbo? thanks

Cool, thanks for your help Jay! Have a good long weekend

That would be good so he could do that to when the time comes. Hate to sound stupid but it is a 'drive on' dyno right? (aka chassis dyno?)

Hi Jay, Thanks for the info! I really only want to make a single run, pref with air/fuel stats for the run also. Just trying to get a figure before I add an electronic boost controller & SAFC. Then will probably need the full run/tune/run/tune type of thing. Thanks for the recommendation, I'll get on to them on tuesday

LOL Seeing a friends RB20 SIl80, stock turbo, full 3" exhaust, fmic, Blitz EBC & CAI makes 160kw @ 12.5psi you seem to be tad pessimistic. Depends on the dyno I guess

Hey guys, Im going to be down in Canberra for while and was wondering where the best place to get my car dynod at? Prices? Thanks

I'd imagine around 185-195kw atw. Let me know if you get it dynod!!

The 1jz definitely seems to enjoy a reputation of being equipped with a 'stronger' bottom end when compared to the RB25. Perhaps this is partly attributable to the lower compression ratio reducing the potential for detonation in comparison to the RB's higher 9:1, all other things being equal. From what I can gather, the generally accept power ceiling on a stock RB25 is ~250kw atw, roughly 332flywheel kws without experiencing rapidly increasing probabilty of engine failure with extended use. I still think thats pretty amazing seeing factory is a relativley paltry ~187kw....

yep twin turbo 1jz v rb25det (r33)

thanks for the replies and yeah stock RB25 v stock 1jz - i can see how its like ford and holden

Which is the superior engine when the parameters are maximum reliable power from stock turbo/stock internals? Who is the king 2.5? Any points would be great thanks

Theories about 'no traction' seem pretty clumsy. Obviously if you leave suspension and wheel configuration standard you will invariably encounter traction issues. Good suspension setup and wheel chocie as with ANY performance/modified vehicle is crucial for traction. Just look at the sub 10secs Rx2's and Rx3's (very light chassis cars) running on street tyres.....it's all about setup.

Thanks for the advise, I'll check it out!

Hey guys, With use of a standard pod air filter in conjunction with the stock BOV on the RB25, should compressor surge noise still be present? On my car it is quite pronounced making me think perhaps the stock BOV is not actuating correctly, although it appears to be plumped in correctly. When I say pronounced I got pulled over by a hidden COP some 70-90meters ahead of me when full throttle (didn't have a speed gun thankfully!) with the officer giving me a B grade lecture in 'noise pollution'...Any ideas? Thanks

Hey Steve, thank's for the info. The engine is stock. Had the car built just a couple of weeks ago, so still just running it pretty lady like. What you say definetley makes sense although going for a spin just now the boost guage still hovers around 7~8psi. The 2psi would be a differnece esp on a relativley high compression engine like the RB25. I'm planning on waiting a few more weeks then installing an Apexi AVCR boost controller. Seems feature packed! Plus I like the idea of being able to down boost in wet, to stay alive What kind of mods/power etc have you got your car at? Thanks again

I have an RB25 180sx. Engine is stock aside from an fmic. Exhaust is 3" cat back so far. The problem I'm having is power (pull) seems to come on late in the rev range. Full boost is achieved by around 3000rpm however no real 'power' as such until 5000rpm. I was thinking it would be an air leak but then would not be getting full boost at ~3000rpm. Any ideas? Thanks