PN-Mad

...looked back at other pics and changed my mind...

Its the way the air circulates around the back of the plate when there is only a small opening/light throttle. Happens on VQ35s too. Just not to the same extent....lol! Dish- is the stuff hard or soft? I would go the Brake/carb cleaner, soak it, then pressure wash off the non electric bits. Make sure you remove gaskets first. The throttle, thats a different story - cause you dont want to actually move the plate around too much if at all (conflicting reports of it stuffing up post cleaning if moved). In any case your going to have to nail the idle reset, cause that shits going to be way high. Can you remove that lower collector and clean it too, so you just have the bare heads left? Or is there electricy stuff in there?

Fark me... those pics really had me ROFL. Don't know how it even ran. Whats the point of an air filter if the motor is going to do that to itself. Make sure you do the EGR block off mod, and Clean it out good and proper.

Don't Emo Aaron. You've done the car to be like everyone else, don't do it again.

Bishes love that car!

Berk, Lewis tweeted it on the arvo day before the race I think. Believe it shows data from Hamo and Button from Spa. The line that hes drawn on appears to be the time differential between the two cars. Jenson was running a low downforce setup, with newer rear wing or something. Therefore its showing that Hamo is slower down the straights, and making up time on button in the twisties. amiright?

Self learning is for pussys. That is all If only Motecs were more affordable.

Bit of a misconception about the O2 sensors here. The ECU only uses the signal from the O2 sensors to correct fueling in light load areas of the fuel mapping. When you plant your foot down, the O2 sensors are NOT giving feedback to the ECU to change fuel, it is operating off the preset values within the fuel table. Basically, wherever the table says 14.7, the sensors will operate to trim the fuel to achieve that AFR. As soon as you come out of that, its left to the remainder of the table. Cars from 2004.5 onwards have factory wideband sensors, one in each bank. Prior to that narrowbands were used. Also notable is on your point of O2s in each cylinder- the factory ECU has the ability to trim or add fuel in individual cylinders, so if you were to set up 6 widebands, you could add fuel to cylinders that receive more air than others due to intake setup. Scotty get off the net and fix your car brah!

Jensen will be winning on and off the track today. Oh, and nice moccasins too brah.

because not pitting? lol at Pasta. Charlie not happy Jan

scary from nandos seat. they...came...from...behind!

need replay!

Ok, so spending how much on NA mods is good? Some nice $1100 Tomei manifolds for a 7 kw gain...? I have done my work for the price some NA people have spend on mods. Thats because we built it, didn't just drop it off to a shop and say heres 10k- do it for me. Its not about how much we spend on cars anyway- its about making our cars personalised, our own. Whatever you spend- $200 or $100k. If the R34 was so great, maybe you should have kept it? Please - tell me what my advice is, becuase I can't see anywhere above where I have directed advice at OP. I'm just countering some closed minded opinions based on no real world expereience - just stories on the interwebz

The limits are well defined. I've gained 70kw, in a very safe tune, at a boost level well under the limit. You can just play around with Z tubes and Plenum spacers then.... I'll play with boost.

And I can give you examples of NA motors that have given up too. Without looking hard you can find examples of FI stock block motors running 30, or 40 thousand miles after becoming forced induction. Such a general statment is just bullshit mate. Uneducated bullshit. Yes, there are motors that let go- mostly due to poor tuning, abuse, or just plainly exceeding the limits. However there are many more rolling around everyday just doing fine. Its a bit like the old N1 oil pump saga.

The 32R discs are a couple of mm wider, and require a little custom work on the old knuckle. Also make note, clearances may be different when turning steering, and when discs are hot hot.

Watermark? Or was it DIY? Looks great BTW, can't wait to see it in the flesh next weekend

They do have these things called aircraft that carry things quickly around the world now.... Anyway- occasionally they do come up for sale in the for sale thread - I sold a set, and a couple of sets of Nismos have gone recently. Members might have a set sitting round, or wreckers have a couple of cars. http://www.importmon...ge=4#2084005257

80 litres Thats cause the fuel tank design is ghey- has a big lump in the middle and the pick up / pump sits on one side. If its low, just go round left hand turns faster

porcupines the Pricks are on the outside?

First of all, I'm not very optimistic about power- its just too easy to please the customer by adjusting the dyno to suit. Dynos are comparative tools for your car, and not other peoples cars. Now, grab a beer/wine/coffee, and sit down and have a long read through this thread- don't be a bish and skip straight to the pictures... wait it out. This is why you clean it up... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/277914-any-direct-injected-300gt-250gt-v35s/page__hl__vq30dd

Taa Daa! Your Correct. It will have no-where near that. Infact, I think it'd be closer to the 100-110kw mark on the dyno that I use. Put it this way- My Stock NA VQ35de put out 130awkw. Now while you are rwd, you have the middle child version. So I don't think you'll be pulling 150rwkw, not even on the most optimistic of dynos. Best thing you can do is pull apart and clean all of the intake system right down to the heads, including the TB. Sounds like your Friend Nuwan doesn't know too much about these cars, or else he'd know about the issues they have fouling the intake system. Sort it out, treat it to a new set of plugs and then see how it feels. If still no good - VQ30DET do it.

It doesn't need to be too tight, as a warning. From some instructions I've got for a VQ35de, the torque that the lower collector should be torqued down with is equililant to what you would get with one of those screwdriver socket thingos. Just hand held, not even a ratchet or anything. Don't strip the threads. I'd keep looking for a loose line, one car I know used to blow them off when using aerostart. However, it could also be a folded over gasket or something really simple like that. Another trick with intake leaks is to spray some brake cleaner or something round the joints in the manifold to see if that effects the idle- if it does, you have a leak.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suriname nohomo....

206kw Volvos Camrys Heaps Stickers NISMO! But seriously, have a look on carsales mate, you will soon figure out what you like, what you don't like. Please use the search function to look up common questions- its not the first time someone has tried to get more power outta a RB25DET. If your stuck on Manual then your only option is C34. If you don't mind auto, then M35 is also available http://www.carsales....ice:Min,Max~0.5