PN-Mad

South America, like North East. Google FTW. Was going to say "Hola", but then wiki says they speak Dutch +1 You car doesn't magically lose its ECU coding when there isn't a battery connected, so it ain't going to lose the self learn. Pump zee pedal, or get a program that works, like Cipher.

And OP- your typing is irritating. But then I looked where your at- holy sheet, how does a skyline get there...?

Always wanted to go to Russia! I'll log, if you fly and put me up! My walbro isn't direct wired, but my car is tuned for what it is at the moment, and being a non return,is different anyway.

Where do you live? There is the option of going for a drive and Logging your ECU including Injector Pulse Width, and then comparing to other cars. Some people have the powers As long as you don't think your the next Shumi...

First of all, what fuel are you using? 91, 95, 98? With knock, you would see the ecu pull timing, not adjust fuel, I believe. It sounds like you have spent a load of money trying to fix it, which is sad. Might be worth asking one of the guys for a spare stock etc, and swap it over- see if it does the same thing. Could be a bad solder or something in the ecu itself. As Scott asked, and check engine lights? Lastly, how are you measuring consumption, and what kind of driving are you doing?

Disagree all you want, still doesn't make you right. The only thing that has going for it, is that the can would be colder, not being situated n the engine bay proper. Thus it's effect on condensation of the vapour would be greater. Still doesn't mean you were catching everything going through the system. There are pics of mine, but it sits in a place that nm35s have intake piping, you no use.

Dear Scotty, Buy all this shit and build me a motor. Will discuss reach around payments later, Thanks Alex. Nate, by the look of this your turbo project has fallen through?

Take the PCV valve out, clean it up a bit and give it a little BJ, see what happens. You can clean them up a little with (JETWRECK BRAND) Brake cleaner. (He'll get the reference). Seems normal to have a little air pass through them when pressurised, of the 3 that I have blown through. Just not a lot of air.

Yeah. Steel wool trick FTW. Some more expensive cans have baffles and stuff in them, the cheaper ones are just hollow. Idea is to provide as much scrubbing and surface area in the can to catch the oil droplets. I just bought a 6 pack of pot scrubbers, pulled them out (they sort of stretch out) and then used a screwdriver to pack them through the drain hole. I think I used about 3 or 4 of them, packed quite tight in there. Took 30 mins or so, but I guess it depends on your drain hole size! A hollow can won't do shit really; it doesn't provide any resistance. Be careful though- the scrubbers will slice your fingers up it you go pulling too hard on em. Voice of experiences regarding smoke/seals - check you have it plumbed correctly. It should not effect that side of things at all. It just goes "in line" with the PCV valve piping. I can't see why that would make the system pressurise.

Did you buy if off MRC? Or your the old owner?

Leon, do you have the PCV valve catch canned on the other rocker cover (assuming VQ25dets have the same PCV set up as VQ35des)? Thats the one that would suck closed. I went and bought some heavy oil resistant pipe from pirtek for it. The one you have catch canned, and correctly I might add, required both vacuum and pressure. So it has to be able to suck in and blow out. I believe that the PCV is more important to catch can than the other side, because it has move vacuum drawing oily gas out and into the plenum. Thats how I thought it would work best anyway.

when you turn on the ignition (to connect to the ECU), the pump will prime and pressurise the system. Using Cipher, turn the fuel pump off. Car will start briefly, but run out of fuel and die quickly. Then I guess you can crank if you want. I guess other options would be to disconnect your fuel pump via either the fuel lines, or the electric power to the pump. Might throw a CEL then. But I'm still of the just Start the car camp...

Read the oil thread, educate yourself. Its in the general maintenance thread. WHY do you need a turbo timer? Did you listen to what we said?

There is an "elegant" solution, in either getting diagnostic software (uprev) or buying Consult (14,000) and using that to turn off the fuel pump and release fuel pressure when the car is cranked. However, as the others have suggested; just start the car mate. Its not a EH Holden... Plus cranking it will kill your starter prematurely.

Cheers, then shakes head no? *confused* anyway- what injectors are you using? Did you get a real ECU solution? Royal Purple is fine, its in my car atm, but as iamhe said - there are better oils again. Buy filters from nissan As has been said- no need for turbo timer, your expert friend should know that. turbo is oil and water cooled and as long as you dont flog it and turn it off right away will be fine. Use a simple manual boost controller, unless you like spending 4-600 on something fancy. It'll do the job, but you'll just lose 1.5psi in the top range. nothing bad. Kit comes with a high flow HKS cat unless you didn't get it. Suggest you use it.

I have a strong suspicion that beers were involved with Jetwrecks last few posts. Nismo "rapping".... really?

lol... oh Aaron. Don't your caps need ironing flat or something? Seriously thought Craig put a VQ40 in a bluebird? At least Craig joined the Tunable ECU Club

Osiris is good for whatever you can get a AFM to read. Has been used on cars with over 1000hp (USA) With an AFM upgrade it will do everything that the HKS kit will do on a std motor. Without boost control, you dont even need to upgrade the stock AFM. Also HKS FCon is available.

wouldn't touch it with a barge pole when there is better options out there. Depends on what you want to spend.

You might know a lot of people- But I installed that kit, got the tuning software, and made it run. On a car it was never designed for. So I know exactly what you have to change. All I hope is that the people you know have some decent knowledge about VQ35des and turbos. Otherwise it'll never make it off the dyno. I suggest you research some more.

So, you know what you have to do to make the kit fit....? Or is someone doing it for you? Have you thought about injectors, fuel pump, plugs, exhaust, Upgraded AFM?

VQ40+UPREV FTW!

Light a fire. Put brace in fire. wrapping burns off. Brace turns black. Win. Seriously - this has to be one of the great wins for Stagea M35 owners. Like when we did sway bars. Cheers Dale.

Its not about tracking the car and looking for every last 1/10th of performance. Upgrading wheels and tyres smartly means looking into a myriad of different areas. Unfortunately the "flat cappers" have turned it into looking at one area- "stance". Things to think about in reality are weight both of wheel and tyre, clearance from suspension structures, Clearance from guards, clearance from brake callipers, Rolling diameter, tyre profile, and width. Plus availability of tyres in chosen size. And lastly Legality. 30lbs is heavy for a wheel, but not the heaviest by far. Imagine all the things the wheel is connected to- suspension, brakes, gearbox, engine, wheel bearings. Changing wheels effects all those parts in different ways. I'm not saying changing wheels will blow your engine up, but pointing out that if you chose a setup with a greatly increased rolling diameter, then expect a decrease in performance. Heavier wheels, your shock absorbers will work harder. TL/DR; do your research, going from 17s to 19s will effect the way your car does just about everything.

This is why good quality Jap rims are expensive, and knock offs are cheap- actually, just one of many reasons. My 19" SSR rims are 8.7kgs each(or 19lbs). Even they are not the lightest option- some RAYS rims are even lighter. Good question. What the other guys have said is correct- your increasing unsprung weight. Remember you have to fit a tyre too, which will be wider and heavier as well, compared to stock.