PN-Mad

Don't worry too much about the warranty. It's only a third party warranty. You can go out and buy it yourself if it means that much to you. I bought mine from north shore prestige, and had a pleasurable experience Not that I had a choice with a series two, but the guys there just let the cars do the talking.

Great post Dale. I read the same thing regarding warp vs build up. I have certainly suffered the build up before but thankfully seemed to have wiped themselves. It was an IS200 that was really fussy about nut torque. Had new discs on it, only to warp quickly. Once we dealt with that and went factory on the torque via wrench, was all good. I'm really yet to give the sumitomos/PMus a good long hammering in the Stagea, to see what they do when really hot, but they are certainly a good upgrade over stock. Stage 2- that's the same as what is on andy's old arx I think. Worked well on that I believe.

Hay Kate! Welcome, hope you enjoy your stay. Lots and lots of info in here. If in doubt use the search function and you should find some info. Can recommend people to work on your car too should something need attention. Dont worry about the trolls. Plenty here. Provide the Lolz mostly.

Looks great Dale! Stone shields are for pussys anyway You didn't want to wait till you got new pads to bed them in? I heard that brakes like having the one pad compound applied to the surface. Brakes are a dark art to me - so many different opinions, I dunno what right. There is a lot of BS floating around out there I think. One thing I haven't got right, and effects things, is the wheel nut torque can cause shudder and warp in discs. Sigh. Fark I hate brakes.

Only if you count the benefit of NOT having a wheel come off and overtake you down the freeway...

Also - take some of the smaller coolant lines off, and the heater core lines and flush them through - you may find a lot of crap floating around in the wee little areas and corners of the system. I flush my heater core out when I change coolant and usually some shit comes out. Its important to get good flow around the system because certain valve thermostats open and close based on it.

^^^^Details about above car...was looking at it all day and wondering about Turbo choice, and psi. We figured it was a CA!

It is most likely some intel that police have received regarding the drugs. I can't believe that a random gtr was targeted that much. I guess all you can do is change the number plates, incase any previous owners had a bit of history, and as has been mentioned keep a bit of a tab on the patrol numbers. Then maybe you can go to your LAC and see the station head and explain your situation. Otherwise, it will become a serious Problem taking that time out of your day.

What gear was it done in? if it was 4th then you'd be in the speed limiter I think. Should be done in 3rd so you can use all the rev range. Hub dyno = less loss = higher figure than a roller. If your going down the path of mods, there is no point on the basis of this dyno graph. Get it done properly, by someone who knows what they are doing/ can dyno a auto car. Otherwise you might as well squiggle lines on a page. Re cam chain, I believe there is a self tensioner in there. It's not a service item, if it has stretched it'll skip a few teeth and destroy your motor. Don't think it's going to be that mate. Doesn't lead to a loss of power, just catastrophic failure like a cam belt. Go back to the place and ask for another dyno set up properly, at a discounted rate. I mean it even says 4wd vehicle at the top of the page ffs.

The flywheel power does not equal what a dyno will read. Ok? The reason for this is that only part of the power makes it through the whole drivetrain, other power is used up turning the auto gearbox, turning the diff, wheel bearings, and lost in friction between the rollers and your tyres. Therefore, use a dyno as a comparative tool. Once you do mods, you can see an improvement or loss. If you put the car on 5 different dynos, you'll most likely get 5 different figures.

Lol. Forget it. Doesn't even look like a good representation of an engines power band. My guess is that the thing was set up really wrong for your car, or something else weird. If you can be stuffed, go and get another power run and get them to set it up right. It's not the power figure thats all that wrong, but the rpms look sus too, max power at 4400 rpm? Don't think so. I would expect 110-120rwkw from a healthy motor on a normal dyno.

Guys it was great fun timing you bunch today, I had a ball. Completely stuffed now, but satisfied. Things I learnt. If you want to rip skids all day, put in some surprisingly quick times, and not have a bit of fuss, buy a 30 year old corolla! Luke sorry to hear about your motor. I think I remember you being pretty enthusiastic on the first run....there was even a comment about bearings.... Was organised fantastically, and credit should go to Eric, Steve, Dave, and lots of other officials for organising a safe, fun, and relaxed day. Funniest thing I saw was the r34 NA four door, that swallowed a cone. I dunno where it went, when I looked in there susp there was only 1/3 of the cone left! It ate it I think

And put in a very good account for yourselves too, by your times. Seriously, you two were pretty much the quickest all day through out the different courses. Very impressed. I'll have a chance, but today just wasnt it. Catch you out there soon. Sorry. Didn't get a chance to say bye, Theo, but thanks for the ride!

^^^ Spotted you last night. You Spotted Scott yet?

A quaife will not change the ratio of your diff. It is a part that fits in the centre, not part of the gears. We were talking about a wholesale pumpkin (the whole unit) change. That being said, might be wise if the stub axle flange fits, getting a manual 350z vlsd diff (3.5:1) as it would give you a useful boost in acceleration, as well as the LSD component. Top end isn't really something to worry about, as long as cruising rpm is still comfortable. Really taken your car past 240kmh? Otherwise not going to effect you.

I can assist on the day if required. I'm equally useless at just about everything, but hey if something needs to be done I'll lend a hand.

Read the GW owners forum. Some stories on there...

Ok, I read and tried to understand your post. But I'm failing. What are you trying to Swap? from what to what? Maybe this will explain a bit better Here is from left to right: 03 driver side from VLSD 03 pass. side from VLSD 05 pass side from open http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/483882-what-could-cause-stub-shafts-to-pull-out-2.html

Can't swap the stub axle over, they have different spline configurations. Can you swap the Outside flange off the stub axle! Or swap over to 3.5 litre driveshafts. And you still don't know if your going to a longer diff, making the car slower. Good luck. Btw, super random first post, what are you doing here.....?

Compare the pair.... Your original http://www.importmon...6.jpg&title=V35 R VQ25DD Z33 http://www.importmon...791.jpg&title=Z Z33 R VQ35DE Doesn't look like it would work, agree?

Thats 120 Degrees C, should have seperated that to make it a bit clearer

From memory / plucked from the air - at or over 120oC for the ATF, and its reducing the life of the transmission and doing it pain. If your towing loads like that, you really need to get it sorted. I would say it got on the hot side if your up and down hills. Get a big one!

Why dont YOU have a look at the mounting positions, the stub axle bolt patterns and make up your mind, or are you waiting for someone to magically say yeah I changed the Diff in my white V35 VQ25DD sedan to a 350z one and it worked? Do you want a LSD if its going to make your car signifigantly slower? Thats what we are telling you to check!

Or just click on the "share" button under the vid, and copy paste that link straight into the fourm - no [media] thingos it will do it automatically

HKS in their wisdom decided not to give the kit I have a BOV. So my Dose brings all the Lebs to the Yard, and they're like, mines lower than yours....