PN-Mad

Jez, Our fathers have a similar taste in cars! Is that a XK120 or 140? I grew up fixing my old mans English cars with him, and trust me, there was a lot of fixing!

Sky^rkt, did you end up running your car? Would like to hear results.

Yeah, they weren't crash hot, but was the first thing I could put my hand on that would work. When you find something that works let me know, cause I need some too! If your worried about the cooler flow, you could always cut a hole in the back of that plastic wheel arch and mesh it. That would flow ok I guess but not pretty. Otherwise maybe move it up above the intercooler where the other guys run it. Do you have something there already? I'm sort of luck with my poor mans 1/2 size intercooler. There was plenty of space.

Snip that belt off if your going to drive it. Just remove it altogether. You don't want it taking out your more important belt that drives the waterpump, electrics and steering. Good choice.

I'm sure that there is a real complicated way of doing it in the FSM, but rule of thumb that I go off, is that you find the longest length of belt, and if you can depress it by hand about 1cm or so, then it'll be ok. If its loose you'll hear it "screech" on start up or quick rev, its its too tight, it'll flog out the bearings in the ancillaries. Other people have different ways?

As I said earlier - superpro for the bushes And you can get improved castor bushes for better handling But unless you have a press, its not a diy. I bet someone has gone to replace the bush, and through f it, too hard, but it back on and cross threaded the bolt.

to slow... lol @ skidda avatar...

the two drive belts on the front of the engine. drives the alternator, power steering, AC. You won't have to take the Pulleys off, just loosen the nut in the centre of the idler pulleys, and then use the tensioners (the really long bolts) to back off the tension, remove belt, slip new belts on in right order, and in the right route, tension, and tighten up the idler pulleys again. Then take it to an AC place, and get them to make up a new line, and fill the AC system again. And let it be a lesson to you to check your belts for signs of cracking! Car doesn't have a timing belt, it has a chain. If in doubt take it to a mechanic who knows what they are doing.

Replace both the belts mate. Its only a small job, and I think you can get them commonly at autoshops- just ask for 350z drive belts. Did mine- Think I payed $30 or something for the belts- no much. I'd be more worried about the AC pipe- do you still have AC or has all the gas gone?

If its the bolt that's stripped, then youll need the replacement. But just so you know, that bush is know for getting destroyed as well. Might be a bush issue, might be a stripped thread issue. Just get under there and find out. I reckon 50% or more cars are driving round with the bush not 100%. It's not the bolt in the hub yeah, it's the other end that bolts to the rail? At least you have pin pointed it, good luck mate.

Plus whatever all the cars had on them in japan, prior to be given the haircut...

Too much starch when washing the undies again?

I know we've covered this before, but tell me how you think it works. The line pressure map is actually quite complicated, and factors n a few different drivability scenarios. The example I used above isn't perfect, and does not take not account k value, and how the ecu scales load, but it's the simplest way to explain it and get a good drivable result.

Ok, so I had a quick look on mine. That's the bit that goes up and supports the bottom of the shock. I'm not sure if you could press that bolt out or if it's in there permanently. If it was mine, I'd just get a wrecker part off z33 or v35, just the whole bit. But by all means speak to Nissan if that's your plan. Make sure the rubber bush hasn't flogged out since its been moving round. There are a few bushes that flog out on these cars, and most people don't realise.

lol.. except there were 40,000 or so JDM cars made, and 100 ADMs. So I can't say you'd base your JDM value on the ADMs. Real shock comes when you have a look into some of the prices in Japan for clean, original R32s. The collector market is well and truly alive over there.

lol... first thing that came into my mind too.

http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/2003-INFINITI-G35-Front-Left-Lower-Front-Suspensi-p/infiniti-3676444-g35-2.htm What number you talking about?

sooooo is it the front or the rear? Nobody can help you if you can't give us more info than its a stripped bolt...

If you can't use the FCon to change the line pressure that the ECU tells the Trans to run (there is a table for it)- Get some injectors that you'll run somewhere between 75-90% duty cycle where you reach your goal. To test what It would be like if you stuff it up, use really light throttle and change up a gear in manual, and see how long it takes to change.

Sorry, this is a bit confusing- is it the front suspension, or the rear? Hope you sit down when Nissan tell you the price, if its what I'm thinking it is. Get a Picture- tells 1000 words as they say. Search for superpro bushes. they do a range for V35s now, and should be able to get the suspension bush. Its genreally not a "bolt" thats an issue, its the rubber around it.

Agree with the sentiments above. I've had a full can of coke thrown at an old car while doing 70kms. wasn't fun hitting that. For future refernence - your paint code can be found on your built plate. Open bonnet, and on the drivers side strut tower there is a little silver plate telling you the VIN engine, gearbox etc, and paint code.

pocketdyno is based on the accelerometers within the ipad/iphone product, not GPS.

Yeah, it is debatable. And its all been done before. Some people would remember the M35 vs VE sportswagon thread, where a road test claimed that a stock M35 would do a 13.5 quarter, and 0-100 in 5.7 secs. lol- I'll buy that one! Have to strap on some high end accelerometers and get a real figure if we want to end the debate. Really, does it matter? We have a good range of 1/4 mile times, and hopefully some really fast ones too once Scott gets his back together, and sky^rit as well. So we can compare them, and there is no error or subjectivity with 1/4 times.

I know that Craig! But 60ft times are actually quite compareable. Work that out.

Did you try Pirtek for those barbs I told you about for the trans? They seem to be working OK on Craigs car. Might be worth a shot- only $6 or something each, before you go to the states.