PN-Mad

ECU was updated through the years but that was about it as far as I know for nm35. RS is base model, then RX, then AR-X is the bump guard / flared / Raised car + 18s. Special version is the Axis by Autech, which has colour coded flares and different interior colours. Also different wheels - 18s, and different fnt bar. Series 2 cars are signifigantly different both in body and mechanicals but I won't go into it. All cars regardless of model come with different ranges of options more desirable being leather, Nav screen, Sunroofs, cruise, reversing cam, etc etc ARX / Axis seem to have the highest level of options.

srs thread is srs. My input. Flow that bishes.

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Buying that whole kit is one of the biggest mistakes you could make. Your injectors are just a 7th injector. You have a Hks computer which only 2 or3 people in sydney can tune, and it's hideously expensive to tune. Better off saving the 1g and doing it properly. Plus by the pics it just looks like a piggyback Fcon iS. There is a used v35 kit on yahoo Jpn at the moment.

Cleaned my pod today. Boy some dirty shit came out of it for 3500kms. Must do a great job at filtering...

There is something called headroom that you need when choosing injectors. You don't want to run them at 95% because when you ask a little more of them ie cooler conditions, or a boost malfunction, they will lean and damage your motor. Those symptoms might be true with eBay shit high flow injectors, where some one has drilled holes in the bottom. But if your talking about good quality injectors, it's not a problem. My idle is perfect, even with bigger afm and 600s. Really it's not pushing any limits. And you need a good tuner to get the basics spot on to get it perfect. So therefore proven recipe 600 on pulp, 1000 on e85

It's that now the fastest gtr? Last time I read something about the heat treatments car, it was 0.02 or something off the gtr record?

Wtf...... is a vacuum cleaner?

Saw a m35 rs in white driving up mona vale road northern beaches at lunch today. Exchanged looks with the lady behind the wheel, looked to have a couple of kids in the back.

I know it's totally irrelivent here, so just ignor it. When I was having a look at an old jet engine I looked at the turbine and it had dozens of little cracks all over it. I said to the tech that this must have been a spare parts engine. He turns to me and says , nah she'd be sweet like that and fly just fine. He went on to say people wouldnt believe that state of some things flying around. From someone with turbo building experience, is a crack like that a fatal flaw, that will break in a matter of time? No doubt it's not good business practice what you've experienced battery.

See you there? What time?

Oh, and go to the library and use a database search to look for journal articles.

Hi mate, I think you would be hard pressed to find a book like that about a modern Nissan race car. Generally teams are very cagey about the exact specs, and secrets about what's involved. Plus, chances are its in Japanese. So thinking outside the box, why don't you go for something like NASCAR? There has got to be shitloads written about it. it's going to be in English, and you could FedEx it and be here in 5 days. Make a detailed analysis of how the cars are set up to run oval- different tyres, suspension geom etc. restriction plates etc.

I wouldn't recommend stock injectors. They are small, like 310s or 330s or something. On my car they would be 100% duty if i still had them in. You really can only run low boost on the stock block. Put it this way, at 6psi, I have gained bout 70kw at the wheels. Run 600s or 1000s if you want e85, bigger pump. You need a bigger afm if you go above about 4psi if not going to maf less.

I am feeling a bit bored. Maybe I'll head out tomorrow night in rwd and give it a go. Need the practice. First time and all. It's a bit tricky to get it off the line quick. It just wants to spin the wheels on stall.

there is a pretty easy solution to this. Why don't we hook up my laptop, and just read the intake temps on two different cars- one with Pod, one with Airbox. Just need some test subjects in sydney! I'm sure Craig won't mind being the stock airbox car. Who got a pod? (would use my car, by the AFM isn't in the stock position, so it won't be an accurate reflection really)

Hopefully some of the guys that tow might jump in here. I don't know of anyone who tows a car regularly with a M35. Yep, you'll need a real good towbar set up if your going to do it. Point with the sub frame is that the load is going to go through there anyway. If you've had a look at one, they do look like they have been welded by Stevie Wonder. Or maybe they sat down and figured that they would weld all subframes on friday arvos. I dunno, but they are shocking. Maybe have a towbar bloke have a look under one of them and give an opinion if he can make it work?

Just connect it up. The front wheels turning faster will pull you out of the hole quicker...

Going to have to disagree with night crawler. It's not the compression of the motor in itself that is the problem. You have to get the car tuned, therefore all of the timing figures are going to change to be safe for the pressure your running so det isnt an issue.The problem with the stock motor are the connecting rods are weak. However they should not be near their limit with the std pulley on the Hks kit. If you are shooting for big numbers then you will have to rebuild and lower the compression as nightcrawler said. Neither will you get 300kw with a sc kit. Expect off the stock kit 210 to 230kw at the rears depending on how happy the dyno is. I would be suprised if a shop could do it for 8k. I don't see how when you think about the cost they are going to charge you for engine management as well. Plus you will need supporting mods as well like a shift kit and cooler if auto, brakes if no brembos, and suspension. Myself and a mate have installed a Hks sc on a 350z. You might have already contacted him.

On second thoughts, does the dyno just store your data from last time? If so, just use what you did your previous run on. You want to see the difference in response, and don't want to stuff it up by messing to much with the speed. I'd love to see the 71v76 overlayed if possible.

He winds back the clocks! Once a year when daylight saving ends....

They seem to tick a lot of your boxes. The gearing is quite high, so on the freeway they dawdle along nicely. And return good economy doing it. Drive in peak hr, or stop start in the city, or put your foot down, and that will instantly change. Very Practical, good ride n std form. Loads of features. The only question mark I would raise would be the towing. I wouldn't tow a car with one. Why? Because it has an alloy sub frame that has been known to crack under heavy loads, secondly, I don't like to think about the stress on the gearbox towing, when it's not exactly the cars strong point. They aren't weak, but they aren't robust either. If you were to tow, factor in a shift kit, and external tranny cooler. The other guys have mentioned the main problems. Regarding rust, I don't think it's a big problem as Joel said. Just be aware that some cars have been snow cars, and when you look underneath the car on a hoist, like I know you WILL when you find a car, it will be very evident that it's a snow car or not. Surface rust on everything, and even exhaust nuts corroded off. Happy hunting

Sounds good. Great move on the housing. Will change it significantly I think. Video of dyno please! Make sure get a really good accurate Indication of the speed, we didn't go past 6k because it just peeled over, but that was well off the speedo in 4th. I suspect it's good for 210-220 at your rev limit. Both my tachometer and speedo read significantly high.

Agree. Moar 3076 needed in this thread.

We all know the M35 world revolves around M35 HKS Bro Full Nismo Dealer Garage, and its sponsored cars... Don't practice those launches too much until Saturday night!