PN-Mad

Ah, Mr Justin. Now it clicks. I'll send you a pm.

Interesting "up" grade. Wouldn't be going on the beach with mine, but what ever floats your boat!

Silver m35 ARX on pennant hills road bout 3pm. Looked stock.

I found that running rwd excentuates the turn in, but Craig also found that bracing was helping turn in in awd. I'll be in once its ready for market.

Pretty easy way to tell - stick your jack under the diff, lift, and turn a wheel. The other side of my car turns the oppo way, Craigs with the LSD turns the same way. You can do 11-sies with an open, but if you have a hint of lock on, it'll do the inside.

I'll give you a hint, its not the Intake. I'll try it out on the dyno with Jez when we have some free time, and see how things go. 1st up is getting Craig tuned though.

Craig, your a massive Trolololol. Come back when your car doesn't sound like a milo tin full-o-bolts. Thanks for waking me up last night to mate- Obvious drunk is obvious. I think I found a restriction, but I'll wait for proof before putting it out there. You just have stronger Rods ok... Its not all about the Rod.

Just tried mine, shows a single spinner in the diagram. I've used this before but never figured out this function. Thanks Dunc.

At least Dale has someone to play with on those long cold mountain nights...

^^^ thanks mate. Here you go. In original packing, I separated all the bits for the buyer again. If you talk to me nice, I might install it, and clean your plenum for you for a 6 pack. Love the beer economy. Is advertised elsewhere to 350z people, so be quick if you want it. Cheapest 11-13 Hp you should make with NA cars.

3 inch, and should be all the way. I think Scott made good power with a Fujitsubo, which is essentially the same exhaust. We can always drop it and see. There is a big HKS Cat in there too, which I dunno how good they are, but wouldn't have thought its shit.

Nope, he's running GT25 twins. I'm just using it as a stock block comparison. Manual Z using F-Con & HKS kit is 245kw at wastegate pressure. I have no idea if that's in la-di-da land or not. I should get him to put it down the 1/4 . Maybe I'll just be happy! True that the HKS adaptor isn't going to flow like twins will. atm its single tyre frying time. rwd and open diff is silly.

Nope, can't fit VLSD shafts to open centres. http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdf10l really the best drop in option.

I would have thought happy dyno time for sure, but a Stock block car with 10psi has run a 11.7 @ 119mph, which would indicate the power is there. I just don't know how they can put the extra timing in, unless either a) we are seeing phantom knock or b) they are dosing up with toluene or race gas on the dyno or I guess c) there is a massive difference in pump fuel octane downunder. That timing issue seems to be the only difference in between my power and theirs. AFR is the same. I don't believe I have an exhaust restriction at this stage. The ECU is smart with timing - apparently you can make changes to the figures, and the ECU will take a few runs to compensate for the changes and find out the best path. Too smart for its own good.

Hi Benny, From what I can figure out 350z options are viable for our cars, as well as G35's from the states / V35s from Japan. However the big thing to get right is that you need a LSD to suit the original open style diff. There is a difference in the output shafts on the LSD models, 3 splines compared to 2 splines for the open type. So you need a LSD to suit a automatic 350z with nil lsd, OR a non lsd G35. Check the ratios if considering a swap.. No 350zs run your ratio diff. You could look at a NM35 ARX or Hicas equipped cars VLSD which will run the stock ratio. Finally, lots of people have said clutch type lsds are pretty harsh. Might cost a bit more, but a quaife could be a good option. Unless you want harsh for drift or something?

know what your airbox looks like? This is powah duct

As a comparison Scotty, what ign advance does yours take in the top end on E85, if you don't mind sharing? These yanks seem to like to put 18-20 degrees in, and they seem to tune on pump Gas, which just doesn't make sense to me knock wise.

could you check wire continuity to the AFM pin on the ECU? maybe the wire has intermittently earthed somewhere. If not, then get your techs to inspect the ECU for joints that are suspect? I'm just playing along at home....

Its the most economical its ever been. Cause it doesn't start! Rudi, I don't think I'll make it this week to the Drags, but next week might be looking good. I want a 13.999999999999999999999 (or better ) But its my first time too.

Hey mate, perhaps jump into the Forced Induction performance thread and have a flick through the recent pages of the RB25 dyno results. That will give you something to go off, and then you can see what to expect. With the stock turbo, people don't push too hard.

If the f#*kers installed a E85 pump somewhere in my part of Australia, I might lean that way. I found a G35 running stock block - 10psi, 22 degrees timing at redline up from 18, and making 414rwhp. Dunno what fuel, but thats a lot of timing in it.

Torque was the main limiting factor Scotty. Seeing it run 470nm @ 2000 RPM wasn't nice....All it needs is a little load, and that turbos spooling! I think I need to look into it and figure out if it is a product of the converter locking up and producing more NM during that process, or if the figure is correct. After about 2500rpm, torque started to drop off to better levels around 380-400nm We didn't find the Box make that much of a difference with temp, but then again, I have already fiddled the figures with the Torque management(line pressure) table. As far as building an engine- if I can avoid it, I will. I'm looking at investing a bit of coin into a different automotive direction, so don't really want to spend all that much on a new motor. However if it poos itself, then I'll look at that path

Hi Guys, I have For Sale a Motordyne basic 5/16ths Plenum spacer. Installs easily between the plenum top and bottom to create more space for Cyl 1 & 2 runners, and improved power and response on NA cars. http://www.motordyne...x.php?cPath=1_5 http://www.motordyne...?pID=7&CDpath=0 Was installed on the car for about 30mins- 2 power runs. All bolts, spacers and washers included as per kit, with detailed instructions. Reason for sale- my car is turbo'd - spacer doesn't provide gains as per NA cars because plenum is pressurised. Price: $200 FIRM. You can buy it new from the states for 200USD, but then you have to ship a rather large box and wait for arrival. Buy mine- its here and basically brand spanking new. I'll pick it up from the tuners tomorrow (I left it there by accident) and take a photo if you need it. Pick up only from Northern area of Sydney. PM me.

Ok, so here is my account of the day! Jetwreck and I arrived pretty early after both being RBT'd (with no problems) at the start of the F3. Met up with Jez up the Central Coast. Jez took a quick look over the car and did the fluids, and we had a chat as to what we wanted to achieve for the day, and the order in which we should proceed. Strapped the car down and ran it up with the tune it drove in on. Car produced a 2kw difference to what I had seen at Unigroup. Jez noted that he thought he heard a bit of rattle, and when we looked at the AFR it was quite lean throughout the range. First change was to try this Plenum Spacer out- a Motordyne 5/16ths that reportedly gives good gains on both NA and FI VQ motors. So as Jetwreck went for bacon and egg rolls, I had the top plenum off and spacer on and installed as per instructions. Ran the car up with the same tune, same temp etc etc and had a loss of power in both the mid range and the top range. See the Initial green graph compared to the blue graph with the plenum spacer in. So thats a Fail. Its going to be For Sale! It should provide good gains to NA cars- as proven by Motordyne, because they work under vacuum, Air will always travel the path of least resistance, so being pressured, there really isnt a difference between the cylinders that this would compensate for, where a NA car would benefit. So, back out the spacer comes and onto tuning. I popped the Uprev GT MAF into the car, and flashed the map to the car with their MAF scale. Car ran like shit. So no, Uprev, its not a drop in and click process. We worked to get the car to idle, redid the target AFR and fuel comp maps. to make it run nice. Then we wound in 6.0psi of boost. We spent a lot of time messing around with intake cam advance to try and lower the torque within safe limits. In the process of that we made some pretty big holes in the map here and there, and didn't really see any process. This was very time consuming (as its not a live tuning feature) and I thank Jez for keeping on going to make a good result. We ended up going for the stock map cam advance for the Rev range, but reducing the degrees of advance though the midrange to limit torque. The fuel at this stage was a good 1 to 1.5 points richer than the drive in map, and provided a good safe basis for timing to be worked out. We then spent a bit of time on the timing maps, adding lots of timing to the idle, which ended up much smoother, and adding a bit of timing up top within safe limits. Things we found out- the ECU is very picky on what intake and coolant temperatures it sees. Unfortunately there is no way to adjust this with Uprev at the moment. The difference can be 2 or 3 degrees of timing that it takes out even at moderate temps (way below the stock fan cut in). Intake cams are a dark art- very hard to get right, reducing the torque while not effecting the power. The best way to ramp the car up is to come in at part throttle, and feed it on through the midrange. This not only reduces the torque load at very low RPM (because it will run full boost in 4th at 2500rpm), but also helps the car retain ign advance up high. It is very hard to measure and tune torque with the auto tranny. We pulled over 50 power runs for the day, the engine held its temp, didn't misfire or hiccup and produced good safe power without any knock. There we no rods on the ground at the end of the day! So gains- we went from 4psi to 6 psi dropping to 5.4psi in the top end. We gained 20 to 25 kw right through the midrange, on safer AFRs. Up top we gained about 14kw in the top end where power tips over at 6000rpm. There is no need to go higher. Torque ranges from 470nm to about 380nm - we had a gain of around 100nm. Again, I'd like to thank Jez for his time and energy in tuning what is not an easy set up to tune. He has researched these motors, and got his head around the software very quickly. It's great that Jez now knows that his dyno is calibrated, and he has the ability to tune V35's, 350z, 370z, R35 and various other Nissan cars with Uprev. Finally, I have no idea how the guys in the States are producing 400whp with these setups. I can't explain it from everything that I have seen here. All I can think of is some very imaginative dyno compensations, or ramp speeds. I'll be sending some more emails asking questions, but these guys just don't give any info out, and are very cagey. My car drives great - midrange and pick up is awesome, it certainly is a very nice street car. TL;DR I got more power - DVS JEZ tunes awesome

Well, all went well today, car was retuned by DVS JEZ, produced more power, on a safer tune, with great increases in the mid range. I'm well rooted after today, was a long one, so I'll make a detailed post tomorrow with a graph. Many thanks go to Jez, and Craig for their patience and knowledge today to get things working together. I think Craig might have got some video, so maybe he'll post that later.