PN-Mad

You can keep increasing it Leon, but there are two figures there target and actual. target can be +8, but it just wont run it, actual is still +2. Depends on ecu too, some have different parameters to others. But check that out. doubt you get any more than +2

Yes, those shims. You don't want your great new brakes to squeal like a stuck pig. The other option if you don't want to use sleeves on the early models is you take the brakes to a fab shop, and get then to drill and thread the holes out to 14mm. Presto they fit the bolts. $200. Your keen. Might be waiting a while then. Review your pricing guideline with a look through the brakes in the F/S section, then, factor in that you will most likely need new pads, and a disk machine. Oh, and pay Scotty for the sleeves.

Brake lines, no. dust shields, probably. Hub alloy, maybe. The only thing you need is the bolt sleeve spacers that Scott has mentioned. You don't need these if you use r34 gtt, or r34 gtr. Everything else I think you need them. Remember to get calipers with all the shims and bolts. It's a pretty easy job if your DIY inclined.

Good Rudi. Want to sort out a few things in the car, then I'll be happy with it. Got some time off coming up, so maybe in for a retune next week!

Ordered my "GT MAF" From Z1motorsports today. Good for 180% over what the stock MAF does, while keeping idle resolution apparently. Come on Fedex.

*** SOLD SOLD SOLD****

Except the one Cam posted has an extra exhaust blade....

Put it this way- of those 3 things, 2 I have plenty of, One I'm near the limit. ECU retards timing to a point no-where near the set table. I'm working on a solution.

I have a different opinion on this based on experience from my car and tuning, but I'm not going to whore up the hypergear thread.

Just a quick note to say that Uprev have now cracked the Cooling fan codes, and I am now able to determine the temp that the thermos come on. They must have heard I changed my radiator. I love these guys.... Question is - what temp do I set it at? I was thinking high 80s maybe early 90s. Stock is 100 degrees.

Though I saw myself... was on the way to the City, and there was a Silverstone (my colour) 350Rx coming the opposite way out fo the city on the warringah fwy. Lowered and had wheels. Think it was a white on green plate.

So the speed limiter isn't defeated? And what's with the boost control, Thought it'd be flatter than that?

Yeah, but you got your fans set to 86 or something don't you? My stockies kick in @ 98! It is nice. I had to take preventative measures to make sure that the condensor wasn't touching/rubbing, and one locating pin was about 3cm out of line. Dr Dremmel saw to that! unfortunatly no moar powers in a radiator

So, installed my radiator yesterday. It wasn't "drop in" but it was pretty close. I did modify a couple of little things for future ease. The Nismo thermostat was a bit of a pain. Hard to get that gasket in place, and find the bolt holes. Anyway, its in, and not leaking. Strapped up the laptop for the trip to work yesterday. Thermostat opens at about 75 degrees, from there temp dropped to 73. once I started warming it up a bit, normal cruising temps were from about 77-82 degrees. If I was at lights, that went up to 88 or so, but soon dropped back down. I got stuck in traffic, and temp went up to the normal 98 where the fans cut in, and I saw a noticeable increase in speed for the temp to drop back down to 93 and fans switch off. So, its a win. No leaks, this morning I topped up the system, and made sure the last of the air was out. I'll check again in a few days time that its fully bled. Overall its a drop of about 10 to 12 degrees. Normal Cruising temps were just over 90 generally, and at lights you could expect it to go up to 95 to 98. I did have to pick up some barbs from pirtek for the AT cooler lines, and replace one hose that was too short to reach the new inlet. Barbs were cheap, and I sealed them with tape and locktite. Pics! Why is the Mishimoto better? Look at the core size! It also has much wider fins if you know what I mean, which should let more air into the engine bay to cool things.

Good work! What are the details? Fuels E85 I'm guessing.

On hold for "C".

PM replied.

Yes they are a great value BBK. Just be aware that the stock rotors are bloody heavy. I dunno if PMu stuff is lighter but you would have to sell your kidney to obtain PMu rotors I'm guessing ($$$) . I think there has been some 2 piece rotors brought to market by someone to try to lighten the kit up a bit- but the source evades me ATM. I think the sizes are teh ghey. Their staggered for a start, and I think the fronts run a really high offset? like +47 or something?

ADM 370zs have 18" wheels over the brakes. So no, you don't have to run 19s. I do think you'll have to try hard to get a wheel with offset/ spoke clearance to fit them though, and thats when 19's give you that little bit of advantage.

Pft... Thread hi-jacking is the lowest form of life... see you guys back in the V series section...

Might help if you state high comp or low comp. Who built the motor? What HKS Cams?

I think mechanically you'd be sweet, but I hear horror stories about hitting Roos along that road. If one goes through the rad, it's game over.

Yeah, +1 First time I got it in one. Tried again lately, and took a fair few goes. I'm near he end of the f3. If you want a hand, pm me, I can help this weekend in the mornings.

Thank you mate, we were wondering about him. Good and bad news I guess. Long road to recovery.

yeah, run through all of them. I found it worked best when I did all of them. I found it was far easier to take the whole top plenum off, and then remove the TB from that, but it might be a bit intimidating if your not into DIY. Any questions, just post them up. Good luck mate.