PN-Mad

I tirerack'd it. Best thing I ever did. Tyres in Aust that would be upwards of 400 each, I got for 205. A bit over 1000 when shipping was included and here in 5 days. Really only good for hard to get / super expensive tyres. I wouldn't be bothered for normal style sizes. Just my 2c

Re-post of a PM to another member. http://forums.nicocl...ng-t356397.html Points to note. Disconnect your batter before going to disconnect the TB. You'll see if its dirty. Mines held on by 4 allen key bolts. Some people say that the TB is coated in some special stuff to stop it fouling up, and this special coat is lost when you hit it with carb cleaner. I figure if you look at it and see its all fouled up, then that special stuff hasn't worked and you have to clean it anyway! MOST important thing- dont move the plate one mm. don't touch scrub push etc etc the plate. just spray it and around it with brake cleaner / tb cleaner. It will be mostly black on the plenum side- this gunk makes it stick to the housing and prevents it correcting the idle properly. Re-assemble everything and complete all the steps in the link. Sometimes you get it in one, sometimes it takes a lot of attempts to get the timing right. Your idle should self control- go high, then low and settle as per the insutrctions. There has been people do this and not successfully re-set their idle, I think the TB was catus. Have fun! Anything to add? Oh, 1500 is way to high. Its possible that it has been cleaned and not re-set to self learn idle.

Hello Sheene There is a Want to Buy section on this site. Can I suggest you post in there rather than the NSW section. Less percentage chance of your threads ending up in Wasteland.

Yeah, you won't have a problem getting rid of it- there are some very eager VQ25DD owners. Thing is will it work on a V35 without AWD? Can always try I guess. Lesson learnt hey...

All the best for a full recovery Prank. May you have the best medical care possible, and know that may people are thinking and praying for your well being in this hard time.

So what are the other Grp V oils? ex sougi, 300v, neo, royal purple, what else? Don't make me go to the oil threads

We'll see about the spacer. I'll run it up with the spacer on, and see if it makes a difference at the same boost. Happy to be wrong if it means more power! Rad should be fine. Says its no wide than the stocker, hope it isn't! I got teh pipez everywhere!

Mine doesn't to the Kms that you guys do. Its a daily 15km trip.... I change @ 5-8 thousand. Sounds like GW might be good for me. Sougi got dirty within a couple of thousand- was great oil. Any info on why the replacement isn't as good?

There is Shell just near the RAAF base, right near the meeting point. Dunno about BP if your stuck on that.

P1 - 58 people in the main grandstand.....

I'm using Royal Purple 10-40 ATM, but would be fine to go back to GW SynX6000 if its the replacement for Sougi. Just got to find some of it! Had Sougi in it before and it liked it. Can't say RP is any better at double the price. Plus mine needs top ups occasionally....

Yes in the fronts- I think the rears are comparable. Hard to tell really because I did swaybars within a couple of days too, which stiffen things up a bit too. Forgot to mention how low. They are lower than Nismo Springs, by about a finger on the wheel arch if that makes sense. This is with them in I think. Wheels are standard overall diameter with 0.9% rolling diameter (obviously they are 19's but...)

Well, thought I'd put a bit of an update in. I have a Mishimoto Radiator on the way, along with a Nismo thermostat- for moar Nismo. Get to bleed the system again...yay. I have also given in and bought the great VQ35 mod - the 5/16ths plenum spacer. So they should be making their way to me shortly. This is all coming from Conceptz in the states. Have bought a bit of stuff off them, and Coz has always been helpful and has said the gains are significant for FI motors. Have been tuning the cruising AFRs a bit, they were too lean, but now they are a little rich, so hopefully tomorrow I'll get if set nicely to go up Putty Road. Also gave it a bit of a squirt last night, and took notice of a few numbers. Temp was about 20 degree, intake temps were about 25 degrees. I saw a AFM volts of 4.93v, which means I have really not got room to increase boost with my current AFM (the max we saw on the dyno was 4.7v) I have a little Turbosmart Boost tee in my hands now, and will be fitting that. What it means is that I'll have to get the replacement MAF GT from abbeymotorsports. Otherwise I'll just run into the AFM cut. http://uprev.com/secure/accessories/uprev-maf-gt.html This will apparently read up to the 600hp range. Plenty enough for me! Best thing is, its pre-programmed in the Uprev software. So I go in, click a button, and the car will instantly run on the new AFM. No mucking around like a Z32 MAF- although since I can alter the values I could run one of them if I wanted too. I'll let you know how it all goes!

Good news mate. I would still check you guards / sills and plenum area under the windscreen for blockages as a precaution.

Hi All, I have a set of four Eibach springs that I bought to lower my car. I've now got Nismos, so don't need these any more. 1/2 a coil (from memory) was taken off the rears, because when I got them on, the rear was noticeably higher than the front- so probably suit RS/RX models more than ARX because they are a bit lighter. If it sits funny, just drop the fronts! They are quite firm, I don't know the exact spring rates, but if you have super low profile tyres, yeah, I told you. I don't want to fit them, I got enough shit to put on my own car! But I might be able to point you to someone who would for a price... Only looking for $80, defiantly the cheapest way to lower your car. Don't really want to ship, located in northern area of Sydney. IMG_4262[1] by PNM35, on Flickr IMG_4261[1] by PNM35, on Flickr

Oh, another thing just to let you know to help you out... If the car doesn't start, don't crank and crank and crank it. The starter motors are a little fragile to cranking forever (they get hot quick), and are not cheap. Shift kit is great. Mine is a bit different to yours, as I have a different trans set up to the Series one cars from the start, but there are lots and lots of series one guys that are very happy with the kit. Firms up the shift, still smooth on low power upchanges. PM "jetwreck" if your interested in it- but he generally does group buys from the states with the kit(ie might have to wait for a little while).

If the BCM is in the drivers kick panel, that is quite close to the wheel arch, and there would be a large amount of water around that area if your plowing through puddles/heavy rain. Trans ECU is in exactly the same place except on the other side. Is possible that the drain holes are blocked up with gunk. Wipers, lights, blinkers, dashlight, all controled via the BCM. Auto trans, well, thats controlled by the trans ecu... Exactly your issues - the engine ECU is seperate- and you've said the engine runs fine... Realise what I'm getting at...? Let us know how you go.

You do know that is not the same car in the link, yeah? Its an Infiniti M35- a sedan sold in the US. Same sort of basic architecture, but it still is a different car. http://www.netcarshow.com/infiniti/2006-m35/800x600/wallpaper_07.htm All of the main electronic control units are inside the car cabin. 2 main points that the loom comes through is near the ABS unit, and behind the battery area, under the black plastic. You could also check your grounding points.

AT and engine ECU are in the passengers footwell, you'll need to get the glove box out. BCM (body control module) I'm not quite sure, but I think its somewhere behind the gear shifter / arm rest. Someone else will firm that one up. Was your car submerged? Make sure you disconnect the battery before mucking around.

Wat? So, you put it in snow 99% of the time, but it doesn't improve economy, so in essence your driving around a car that feels like shit for no benefit! I see no point! The one and only time I use snow is when I'm putting the car up on ramps- because it locks front /rear torque. It will just drive up the ramp easy (obviously you don't have awd...) Scotty, I haven't done a throttle % map, and it is different now. I have a completely different ecu, even to most of the V35's, as its a Gen 2 Ecu- Runs widebands not narrowbands from factory. But there is just no way there is the NM35 style restriction on our Ecus- stock, there isn't the torque of the turbo motor!

I don't think that the V35/PM35/z33 throttle restriction is based off the same process as the NM35. I believe its more of a electronic throttle table, that will only allow a specific percentage (or volts to be precise) of throttle opening at X load Y RPM. Not based off the brake signal as far as I can tell. I base this off the fact that I can alter the values in my tuning software. Anyone who has driven both cars will realise the difference.

Not at all mate, just makes for a safer and more enjoyable meet when the sun is shining! Sailed it to work tonight!

I'm in for it. Has to stop raining by then, can't be much left up there...

And don't forget the 2 pieces of foam strip on the sides of the filter so it actually makes the air go through the filter. I was just about to put it back together when I thought I'd read the instructions...

I just love seeing the stuff you come up with and actually get to work. It sure needs a hand to get off the line, maybe an extra litre would help I have to slow my response down low...