PN-Mad

Nuffin like hijacking someone elses thread... Scott, the only ultimate way to tell would be to run up two identical cars one AT one Man, but you know that. What my experience has told me is that I can't explain why a manual 350z with HKS kit and 5psi (stock gate spring) can put down 240kw rear wheels, and mine with stock gate spring (which turned out to be 4psi) put down 185kw rear wheels. Dyno, ramp rate, gears etc etc all make a difference as we have discussed, but that much difference? Or is one tuner magically 50kw better off? Its known that manual 350zs put out about 160-170 at the wheels, while AT cars 130-140 maybe a bit higher stock for stock.

Yep, thats it. Thats how I found out mine was dirty. I don't think you can get it out/ in from there without crushing it and therefore destroying its filtering qualities, but its an easy way to check its condition.

Why do they require topping up? Do they evaporate, when Glycol has some anti-evaporative properties? Thats interesting. I'll be receiving a Radiator soon, and a Nismo Thermostat. Hope to keep my temps down a bit. Edit. Just actually used my brain , whenever you drop coolant on the garage floor, shit takes forever to evaporate, so I guess I answered my own question.

The Auto takes heaps away too. The best thing about my tune is that I have a diagnostics option as well, and I have a laptop at home that I can tweak anything any time I want. For example, I was running too lean on cruise, so out with the lappy, and tuned it to suit. Cheap too- 700 US and your good as gold- anyone can tune it. Planing to up it to about 6psi, and add a couple of things, and take out a couple of things in the tune- see if I can get some more power out to keep the FI 350zs in check. Should still be safe I think.

Anti-lag..... fark me. Is there anything you wont do Scott!!!

Being in Byron, and having a snowflakes chance in Hell of actually reaching below 0 degrees, you can ditch the anti-freeze altogether, and use one of those fancy water wetting agents I've seen around. They reckon they work ok, and provide some benefits. I think redline or royal purple make some of them. Have a search- some race car teams use them as well. Because Racecar....

Sounds like a great deal. 2 piece rotors? decent width to them? Pads OK? It can be a bit of a shock when you look at these BBKs and the routine costs skyrocket compared to running more common brakes. Got it tuned yet? iamhe77 said your sticking with the stock injectors!?

Same diameter, however thickness is the major difference- 24mm compared to 32mm. Then compare single piston slide caliper to 4 pot sumitomo. I haven't compared pad size, but its not that important. Trust me- its an upgrade! Std ones are woeful. Sure Brembos are better, but also 2 or 3 times the price. If your not tracking your car, frankly I don't see the point in these massive brakes (unless visual/show off is your thing...) Brembos would be as much as I would go.

From memory there are a few different CELs related to the sensor. Craig unplugged his, and I only got one error code from it. There may be more as time goes on, I don't know, sometimes the ECU errors are based on not seeing sensor info for a specified amount of time. I think its based on the volts output of the sensor, not a actual resistance though- so by using narrowband from the WB, to the ecu, it should be fine. That was my experience when I unplugged all of mine.

Married.

Maybe we can give OP a insight into first cars. Post up your first car- pics can be representative if you don't have a pic any more... Mine: 1978 C210 Skyline Coupe - $500 IMG_4089[1] by PNM35, on Flickr

same same. 650 +- 50 in the 3.5

You seem to be a reasonably intelligent young guy. I'm sure you can go to Just car and get a quote. Two words, you'll get to know them. Engine out.

650rpm + - 50rpm is normal. In neutral without electrical / ac load. If anything else- advise cleaning the throttle body, and doing the idle reset procedure. Oh, and tacho is generally not that accurate. Mine reads quite high compared to what the ECU sees via computer. Don't ask me why...

Lol... out of interest I did a quote online just car- Comprehensive. 17yo male, morningside (I have no idea if thats a dead shit suburb or not) $22k purchase price. Just got licence. On a 2003 Stagea- $3605 Thats enough to buy my Mazda every year! lol.

I won't lie, I had to google wtf a beats was... Feelin old now.... Look, I still don't think it's a great first car. Most of us here got some form of shitbox first car. We worked on it, and learnt heaps because we fixed it every weekend. Even if it's for a year or so. It's a good idea, think it over.

Yes mate, they are 18's. Problem is people buy aftermarket wheels and go low profile. Makes em look silly. You have to work hard to find something that looks good and fits. Even my 19s look small sometimes, you park it next to a R34 GTR with 19s and my wheels look tiny! They swallow wheels. Concentrate more on if the car is suitable first before thinking about wheels. Your mates will go out and buy little sports cars on their "p"s, and you've got a wagon. You gunna be Jelly?

Yup, and the R33 GTS-t / R34 GT-t as well. I've just done the fronts. Just need some spacers for the bolts to go from M12 to M14 from memory. They slip over the bolts so the calipers don't move around. The R34 brakes are M14 so you don't need to do spacers. You'll have to cut off the stone shield on the back, because it wont fit the rotor, and also shave a little alloy off the outter of the hub to stop the disk rubbing. R32 GTR are 32mm wide, R33 GTS-t are 30 mm, while the R34 GT-t is a little bigger in the diameter I believe- 310mm or something rather than 296mm

No Dramas. I had to explain what it was to my insurer, as they didn't have it on their "list", even though they had NM35s. I got the "are you sure it isn't a ARX?" thing. Which brings me to OP- Insurance will rape you. Hard. Get a quote.

more than or equal to 8 cyl, turbo or s/c, or modified. sorry about the double post- bad computer.

Probationary drivers can drive PM/PNM35's legally. They are not on Vic roads, or RTAs prohibited cars list.Doesn't even exist on the list, which means its acceptable in Vic if it has

1.What are the maintenance costs like on a Series 2 AR-X FOUR? Not that different to other cars. Other than engine oil/filters brakes and tyres, there isn't that much to do. The initial cost of changing all the fluids in the car is high, as there is a lot to do, but after that its normal servicing. It runs a Cam chain that doesn't need adjustment/changing - not a belt. You will however spend a lot at the local servo on 98. Expect double to what you pay in the tida. 2.Do the Series 2 M35 Stageas have any known issues (e.g, weak components)? Haven't found any specific to the S2 yet. Normal M35 items are suspension bushes, brakes wear pretty quick, wheel bearings have been known as an issue. The turbo on nm35's but we don't have to worry about that. Oh, and the 6th cylinder plug hole oil leak, they aren't exempt from that either. 3.Are there any turbo/twin-turbo kits for the VQ35DE engine that will fit the Stag? (for after the P-plates, stupid nanny-state restrictions) Yes the HKS Z33 special single turbo kit will fit on the ARX, but I wouldn't call it a bolt on. There were a few items that needed fabrication / holes made. But still very doable. However it is discontinued, but there are a few floating around. Twin turbo- forget it. front diff, and steering rack on the wrong side means that you won't find anything that fits without major modification. 4.is there anything I should be on the lookout for when looking at an AR-X Stag, aside from the usual checks? No, not really. ARX's are known to be more used in snow areas than other models. Check the underbody for abnormal corrosion due to salted roads, and steer clear. The trip computer cannot be converted to english yet, and there is no real timeframe on when it will be. Check interior wear is in line with what the odo. reading is saying. 5.For a stock suspensioned AR-X, what wheel sizes/offsets would fit, and which bolt pattern/size do I need? The wheels you mentioned have terrible offsets. IMO, its hard to put 18's on an stock susp. ARX without it looking a bit silly. Better off keeping the stockies. Finally, while I'd love to recommend one to you, its just not really a first car. Get a small economical 4cyl hatch. Learn to service it yourself and fix problems, what costs are like for Rego, green slips, comp insurance, running costs etc. Then when your up and running (read- have a decent job) and learnt your hard knocks (ie- crashed the car, yes it probably will happen at least once) think about getting something more suitable to your lifestyle be that sporty or 4WD or whatever. Finally, the website has a great search function, that will answer most of your common questions. There has been a few prospective owners post up. Sometimes the conversation gets a bit off topic, but the info is there.

Found a small stone chip in my drivers side headlight today. Fuuuuuu..... Considering the $2500 cost from Nissan, I've live with it. Its small and over the indicator, no hole or anything just a little crack. Felt so sorry for it, spent the next 45mins or so polishing up the headlights to keep that nasty yellow shit away.

Working. Bah.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/392727-avant-garde-m310-wheels-and-kumho-tyres/