PN-Mad

Looks clean and is clean are two different things. Anyway, then the only thing I could think of would be to trace the wire back and inspect the condition of it up until the loom (it would get difficult but not impossible once you get to the loom...). Disconnect battery, get your ECU out and have a real good look at all the joints you can to see, and see if one is dry or shows signs of overload / water damage etc No other ideas, sorry.

I found this with an Aston Martin Vantage V12, but the opposite. Sit in neutral and give it a rev and you get creamy V12 goodness up until you get to 3000rpm, when something shuts off in the exhaust and it goes all quiet! I was like giving me a taste of the goodness, then not letting me have any more! Damm NVH engineers!

There is another car that is doing this- its Rudis car. In my opinion its either getting too dirty, and dying, or there is an electrical gremlin in there shorting it or applying too much load. It is possible that the AFM circuit in the ECU is fried, has happened to cars on the O2 sensor circuits in the ECU- but I don't know how you go about testing diagnosing that, and I would think it would effect drive-ability which you'd notice. When I tested Rudis car, the AFM read normally, wasn't spiking or anything and the ECU had not logged any CELs. If it was my car- I would get a new nissan panel filter, clean my airbox out to be spotless (front/back/underside etc etc), and get a can of MAF/AFM cleaner, and give the wire a squirt every couple of months to clean it. Then see what it does.

What air filter you running?

Think your cool eh? You got nuffin, I say nuffin on the Mail Call Stagea! I want pics of said 15-20 Stageas...

Bumping this up again. SAU NSW Official Putty Road Cruise. 22nd April- only 10 days time! Details are here! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395022-sau-nsw-official-putty-rd-cruise-22nd-april-2012/ Get your Stagea out of town for the day, come met other people.... even Skodas may be accepted...

I have no idea about the price of QFM's but compared to my Mu's- its cheap.

Please use the "want to buy" section. This section is for cars for sale.

Good advice then. I've had the worn brushes before on a 260k km car. Never had a diode or regulator fault. My point is that the infomation in these fourms is usually much more accurate than what an average workshop will actually give you. Especially so with the Stageas. So I take this "fourm guesser" comment with a grain of salt, knowing that industry has got it wrong time and time again with these cars- You just have to ask any GT-8 owner that has had their gearbox oil changed by a mechanic only to find out they used dextron III. There are so many bad stories. I only trust myself, and a couple of other people to touch my car. So saying your just in the industry doesn't fill a lot of us with confidence- not a shot at you yourself, but you have to fight long and hard (and spend a lot of money) to find a good mechanic in the import scene. If you haven't found that yet, then this fourm is the best source of infomation. Did OP get his problem fixed? Yep- through the fourm.

One of those insurance companier with lifetime warrenty on repairs? Sounds like you should read the PDS, phone em up to see if they'll cover your repaired motor, and then once satisfied they'll cover it, blow that shit up and get a new motor from them. Should never have been flushed and put back on the road with a knock coming from it. Thats just unprofessional work as an assessor IMO.

Lol. Yeah it actually does it I launch it with full boost. Maybe a product of the single spinner but I have too much mechanical sympathy to flog it hard. I'm going to order some stuff, and then back to the tuner. Might go to the track in between though. Craig has to get to the tuner- cause he want to post a time too with the emanage in.

You bought the hatch hey, I bet you can fit all kinds of things in there.... http://www.smh.com.au/sport/motorsport/doctors-save-kubicas-hand-20110208-1al0q.html

A Battery can catastrophically fail- IE plates touch each other and short itself out. Has happened to me- car starts fine- drives 5 mins stop for fuel, no battery power whatsoever. Then even if you plug a charger into it, it will not transfer power. I would forget about the alternator as the "auto electrician" has suggested, because you'll have a dash battery light come on if the alternator fails. ps. I'm a forum guesser, that just happens to know quite a bit of shit. The auto electrician just wants to charge you $700 for a new alternator.

Glad to see you got the paint protection... Just got to stop the local wags jumping on the roof hey.

Did you want the dyno queen status, or want me to go faster than 13.9?

Bit of an update. I've been working through all the tune related stuff, and realised I made a bit of an error When I look at the Intake cam table, it has occured to me that I'm not getting any signifigant level of intake cam advance on the motor! So I should be able to make some more power there- seeing I got 185kw wtih 4 psi and no cam timing! Currently I'm pumping people for info about tuning VQ35s in the states and UK. There are a few tricks that allow them to run more safely. Once I have all the ideas, I'll book in back in at Unigroup, do some more light load work to get the AFRs working a bit better, get a grip on cam timing, and add a couple of Psi more boost to about 6psi. Hopefully conditions will be a bit better to produce some more power! Stay tuned. Pun intended.

Just sleeve yours out! Wouldn't that work? Then just use some of the darton sleves with some bigger pistons / tomei rods and bolt it all back with your heads. Work or not? Your growing an engine farm down there, so just build one of the spare short blocks!

Scott- just build a 3.5 or 3.8- then go to a GT35. You know you want to!

Everyone loves the colour neutrality of the M35 ARX interior. So Classy, yet practical.

Then there are the unmissable bright yellow Dayz kitted C34s. Don't they just pop out at you.

Dale, how did we forget the GTR of wagons. The famous RS260. Thats fast groceries.

Flicked through a few of the US fourms, and found a result of 490rwhp on a HR on 11 or 12 psi. Then again one failed in Melb on 270rwkw. Choose your people wisely and it'll be great. +1 on the build thread. Some serious fabrication going to go into it Lol... just found your thread on my350z

I love the C34, especially with stance and some high quality Japanese wheels.

I found you even here Scotty! The VQ35HR actually has beefer rods than a DE. There are stock DE motors running around with 12psi in them. HR won't take as much because the CR is even higher (10.6:1 I think). Its all down to tuning IMO. The HR that destructed in Melb lately, I don't think was tuned all that well. There are tricks that I have been learning from people overseas as to the tuning of these. I do agree with you - a VQ30det would have been better for his end use. And much easier to get working. But this is a bit off topic!

Spotted a clean white C34 turning in Chatswood about 1:45pm today. Gave a wave but the driver wwas doing something in the centre console!