PN-Mad

Thats Spoolin12- Chris Also known to stick his number plate on Lamborghinis! Oh, and better keep on topic- the C34 Mailcall courier Stagea went past my place today! Still wonder if he is on here!

PM sent

Hi All, When I tuned my car, the software (UPREV Cipher) came with a diagnostics program to run on Nissan CAN BUS cars. So- its good new for you people! I tried the software out on Jetwrecks car today successfully. What this means is that I can read and clear the error codes that appear on your ECU's without having to go through all the numbers/throttle pressing etc. I can also clear them at a touch of a button. This is a list of what I can CAN DO with this software: Retrieve and clear trouble codes Monitor and record ECU parameters (ie coolant temp, engine oil temp, injector duty cycle / duty cycle , AFM volts etc ) Adjust your ignition timing up to +2 degrees or - 5 degrees (please note- I'm not in any way responsible for what happens to your car if you want me to do this) Adjust your Idle RPM up to +250 Monitor record ABS parameters Clear your learned fuel settings Conduct a cylinder power test ( turn the ignition to various cylinders on or off) Turn the fuel pump off to de-pressurise the system Test your cooling fans What I can not do with this software- tune your car Fix your cars old sensors on the spot Now, because NM35's are not supported by the full tuning functions of UPREV, and there are so many different types of the NM35 computer, I cannot guarantee it will work with your car but once I plug it in to a few more cars I'll get a better Idea. For example I could not access the BCM (body control module) options on Jetwerecks car. But if you don't try, You will never know. I don't know what every code means, but generally, once you have a code and you search on the internet, you can find out what it is, and how its triggered. So, forget going to Nissan ($) just to get a code read- I'll do it for you. Now, preferably, you bring the car to me and I'll do it from home. However if your car is stuck/stranded at your place, I'm sure we can arrange something. I need advance notice, as I borrow the laptop. Best thing is- I'm not going to charge you. Thats right No dollars. I am partial to 6-packs of BEER, (if you get my drift) if this process aids you in some way. PM me if you want to check it out. I'm located on the Northern side of Sydney. If your interstate, I can point you in the direction to get your own software.

Oh, 5 speed. Ok. Yeah couple of people have gone to 3.5 finals now. Seem happy. Don't know about the cost benefit of it compared to other mods, as the two cars with it done are probably the most modified in the world!

Ooo! New PM35 ! At least you had fans in traffic this time! Btw, spotted the bluebird tonight, would it hurt just to wash it once a year?

I think the vq25dd has a 4.3 final drive. http://usedcarsforsale.iji.jp/spec.php?id=891&make=NISSAN

Found a little cubby hole for a oil catch can today. Hopefully will minimise the amount of oil going out the end of these bloody VQ's. Have to go to pirtek tomorrow and get some real hose- as usual the stuff they give you is massively shit. Had fun packing that mother full of steel wool!!!!

IBTL Will Ash come through with the goods....?

I'm just going to drop this in here for future reference. Clears up some things. http://www.ntc.gov.au/filemedia/Reports/NatStatExhaustNoiseTestSept2006.pdf

Put it on a milk crate (or something similar height to exhaust) @ 45 degrees from your exhaust outlet at a distance of 0.5 metre. http://www.ntc.gov.au/filemedia/Reports/NatStatExhaustNoiseTestSept2006.pdf Down like a clown for WSID- propose a date, make a thread, and we'll see if we can get some interest! I know there is a SAU NSW WSID day sometime this year, but I don't need more than 3 runs- flogging the car all day doesn't really appeal to my mechanical sympathy

Yup. Claim it was complied into Australia that way? idunno. Bob- the bloke with the impossibly showroom ADM R32 GTR said somewhere they had to mod the aus spec cars exhausts because they were too loud!

Which is outrageous considering the standard muffler is variable too. Don't get me started on the HSV's, and the italians that have these "sports exhausts" from factory which would never get down to 90db with the valve open. I'm fortunate- Mine is quiet ~90db. I have no idea if it flows heaps- Scotty might know- didn't you have a fujitsubu? Exhaust looks the goods Scott. Hope 11's come your way! Think I'm in for a mid 13. Have to go check it out soon. Ironpaw- FYI a bone STOCK R32 GT-R fails the EPA test on noise. Our get out of jail card is that I bet they haven't done a mean brake power reading or whatever its called on our cars- so for a 6 cylinder they default to 3600rpm or something like that. RB26's have to be tested at 5600rpm or something relatively quite high. Thats why they fail.

Have a search for rough idle mate, I think there is a AAC valve or something in the RB's that gets blocked up and causes it. there is a tutorial about how to fix it on this site. Liquid moly will do sweet FA I think. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/

Scotty, hunting as in raising and lowering revs. All sorted now- don't use the O2 sensors- much better-er! You can watch it go away by cancelling the O2 sensor correction. Just turned them off by running 14.58 in the low load zones, instead of 14.70. Interesting fact I found out today- my economy is awesome according to the factory computer; about 1100 kms full tank range. What it actually means is that the trip computer is calibrated to the stock max base fuel schedule! So now I can put the foot down, and it won't dip below 10km / Litre on my leafy thingo. Back in reality, the actual fuel economy is good. I think if I'm careful with it, it'd out do a stock model, since I'm running leaner than stoic on cruise. Haven't driven enough to actually get a solid figure, but I'm at 1/2 tank now, and have done 220kms with lots of short trips, lots of idling and round the block testing. Economy at cruise seems very good.

One HD- Show me the Group A Bishes!!!!

Hey mate. It's the base fuel schedule, not the injectors. But it's related. You want to run close to the capacity of the injector, but also with a margin of error. For example, if you have a 98 car running 1000cc but tuned to 220 kw or so, using 50% duty, then gearbox will be shit. It just won't run decent line pressure, because it does not reach the area in the table where the gearbox firms up. Now, if you run 1000cc and are on e85 and your are running big power, then you see 80% duty, a higher bfs and the car will access the good part of the table. Run a injector suitable for your power level. I'm on 600cc, don't know what duty cycle, but I'd guess about 60% at most. Sorry, another thing is the best way to do it would be to plug in your piggyback and with the stock injectors and boost check what base fuel schedule the cars sees at a stock k fuel multiplier. Then drop in injectors, wind up boost and try to get as close as possible to the original base fuel and retain safe tune. Note that your ecu will never change the calculated load table, don't think you could ever change it, but I don't now what effect that table has.

Sometimes events are kept to members only. Thats just the way it goes. When you become a member there is a separate section of the forums available to you incl a NSW Wasteland. I have been meaning to get my membership in for ages, but haven't got off my ass.

Series one with Series two facelift. Has airbags presumably, otherwise would be impossible to drive!

So here is the Calculated load calculations. You set this up by doing a WOT run from low RPM till limit, then plug in the values at corresponding RPM. I don't really know the function it has in the overall algorithm. Stock values provided. From uprev: Calculated Load Axis = Engine RPM. Axis is static (not adjustable). The ECU calculates the calculated load by dividing the current base fuel schedule into the value that is in this table for the given RPM. Base load screenshot.docx

AFM volts were the same if the shift was bad or good. My motor is working the same even if the gearbox is loose or slipping of if its locked up. I don't know the relationship between base fuel schedule, AFM volts, and K fuel multi. Line pressure is based off Base fuel schedule + RPM (as you can see in the table) not AFM volts. So its more related to load than actual airflow. I think there must just be to many differences between piggyback tuning and Flash tuning. I don't know them. I think we are all learning Uprev in Australia. One place in Perth has done a Turbo 350z, and one place in sydney has done some minor tuning with it on NA cars. I was in the Car with Yauvz, working through the tune- so we both learned ! Me definatly more than him! Price wise- well, I don't think another tuner could beat it.

Read over this- should be L per hour. per min- that would be a big ass pump

Hey Scotty I'll get a screen shot of the how the ECU sees the ramp up tonight when I get back to the software. Its just a real simple little table that I can adjust. What I can say is modifying that table only does nothing as to fixing the lag in between the changes- I tried it. That was down to the torque management table. The ECU sees base fuel schedule, and while its very closely related to injector duty cycle, it doesn't equal it. It's used in the algorithum with K fuel multiplyer to determine fueling. I'd be interested to see what the stock max BFS is compared to what it is now- if Cihan has the data. And K fuel multi too. I don't know about maxed out AFM = High line pressure. Nothing in the software I can see shows that its related, but if you've done the testing then I'll believe it. I haven't maxed the AFM yet, but am close- within about .4 of a volt. I had another thought, and its that Your all using piggybacks. So I don't know about tuning them, only the actual ECU. So maybe it doesn't effect you guys as much as me. What I do know is that if you drop big injectors in a motor and only use a fraction of their capacity, and drop the BFS to suit, it roots up your shift. Lucky I had some people to point me out where I could fix it in the software. As for my tuner, It doesn't matter if he has VQ expereince or not. There is nothing special about my motor that means that only one person can do it. The general tuning conventions still remain. I went there for the tuners ability to tune. And hes bloody awesome at it. I'll stand by his ability any day. I do want to go back, do some low load work, and get another power run to see if the gearbox changes have changed anything in terms of power. To sum up- If I dropped ID1000's in my car to run on 98, and had no way to tune the gearbox response, then it would be shit. If thats different for you guys running piggybacks, then thats great news for you- Use them!

Yeah, no. Doesn't matter about boost or not. Your box is built right? So presumably its running a lot more line pressure than a normal stock box, or even a transgo'd one. Therefore your symptoms are greatly lessoned. The underlying problem is still there. Note that this appears only in manual mode, and not in auto. Torque management values would obviously be different in your ecu to mine, as there is different characteristics, but essentially its the same problem. Tell me what base fuel schedule your seeing as a Max compared to the stock Value?

Thread Jack. Remember, cars can get a "hair cut" before they even make it to auction. So look for the tell tail signs of higher Kms- wear on gear sticks, steering wheels, carpets, rubber bushes under the car, and generally scruffier condition. Rust / corrosion (more than normal) on bolts and things under the car means a car thats come from a snow area with salted roads. If in doubt, get an independent mechanical check over.