PN-Mad

Still, I wouldn't kick one out of bed... Its this that I do not want...

looks like there is a little rectangular plastic piece to take out on your cars to get at the tow point. this is what your looking for in the boot:

Behind the number plate, in the alloy front crossmember there is a threaded hole. Take the tow hook from the boot, in your tool kit, and screw in to the alloy hole. Tow.

Well, bit of an update. Everything is holding together well. Motor has an abundance of torque but not outright power, and much better off the line performance than a "high performance" NM35. There is no need to rev it out like a NM35. It can pretty much do anything a VQ25 can do with 2000 less revs- but admittedly, it doesn't have the same top end. Front Shaft went back in, so its awd again. Have ordered a O2 sensor to replace my toasty one. I'll then get into some logging and change a few things around to see if we can run in closed loop successfully. Other 350zs with the kit seem to be able to, so I hope I can too. Again, Mark from Abbey is helping me out here- Champ! I've got to take about 15% out of the hot start cranking; its too rich. Wishlist from here (money not being a factor)- an LSD from a 350z, Oil Cooler, twin pass rad, Brembos, Some decent aftermarket shocks, Upgraded MAF (from UPREV), boost control- manual, more dyno time, and I'm fighting the urge to build a forged VQ35 and max the turbo... and a 350z rwd gearbox for da skidz

Big big wet has come to the southeast Everyone safe? Evacuated, or flooded? Timely reminder not to do anything stupid in flood waters

Ahh- did see something- right at the end. Thats the Nissan Anti theft system (NATS), and your key fobs. Should be an easy thing to do through Consult. Tell them exactly what you want at the dealership- then watch them embarrass themselves. They might get it right too.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2003/bcs.pdf FSM for a 2003 G35 Sedan- Body Control systems I know its not your car, but might help somewhat... I hate that reply from Stealerships. Couldn't see anything in there that states that it has to be programmed. Chris Rogers would be the person to go to for info. Seems to be the Guru for Nissan electrical eccentricities. Hope it gets sorted!

Welcome Christian! Looks low! Any plans for it, or just a cruiser? Plenty of info around on here to answer many of the common questions- a search will give you most of the info! Hope you enjoy your stay!

Just followed a light blue m35 Rx down charmers road, chatswood. Quite low, but very soft. Looked like the rear shocks might be a bit old. Looked in great Knick.

^^^ thats it.

PM Scotty, he hooked me up, it was about 30 bucks a sheet- Foil, over a fibreglass weave with a sticky backing.

Hey Nick, Meh, dynos are finicky. Until you actually get the cars on the same dynos, in the same conditions, with the same ramp up speed, its all just dicking around. I do suspect that my auto was sucking way to much power- because I would have never hit optimum line pressure in the gearbox- therefore slip may have occurred. On the dyno it was noticeably sluggish- now its almost back to normal (I say almost because It has a lot more torque to deal with). I wonder what speed it was doing? I was looking at the ign timing table at the time, not the speedo! 6600rpm in 4th....236kmh Thats the top speed in gear for a Manual 350z (3.5 final drive) in 5th gear (1.00:1) which is the same as my 4th gear.

How did you go? Mods? Looks like I'm up for a new WB O2 sensor- melted the shit out of a plug. Think I could just get a new plug? Good opportunity to lengthen the wire, and route it some place a bit more sensible. Have to wait and see if it'll run in Closed loop I guess. Got the Turbo blanket on there- not that easy- there really isn't room, but its in there. No chance of fitting any clips or anything, it can hold itself. Installed some great 3M heat shielding all around the place. Stuff is fan-bloody-tastic. Well worth the price. hopefully that'll keep the heat down, and moving away from the car.

Yup- its a good bit of kit. Correct- its the Injectors that make it instantly rooted- because of the reduction you have to make in the K fuel multiplier, and therefore BFS HOWEVER- I would say that when you play with a NM35 and make it come on a lot stronger earlier (ie dump, exhaust, intake pipe etc) I would say that that would have all kinds of dastardly effects on the BFS (and this is why you get really rich- it goes into high BFS, low-mid rpm which it will dump fuel). If you see mine, its sort of like the dyno graph- ramps up and then levels out at about 4750rpm. so the last 4 values in my calculated load table are actually all in the 12's BFS, even though we go from 4600 to 6000 rpm or something. Any of you guys using aftermarket computers able to access torque management?

I just wanted to see it tuned at the base level, before seeing a bit more boost. It also allows my driving a little time to catch up! We didn't have time to mess around too much- Powercruise has these guys working OT. I will definatly be going back to sus out a few things with a few "adjustments" Different dynos. I had one NA run at 147kw, one at 131kw. This first dyno is known as very happy (not that I knew that at the time) Big news is that I have nailed hot start. Bigger news is that I have my shift back! And this explains why NM35's are suffering that dreaded delay IE why Jetwreck has to shift at 4000RPM to avoid hitting limiter. The ECU talks to the gearbox in 2 different ways- First "calculated load" which is very basic: At RPM points what base fuel schedule is seen at WOT. Secondly a map called "torque management". This is a table that compares RPM and base fuel schedule on the axis', and the numbers in the table equate to the line pressure in the gearbox. Because we reduced the base fuel schedule to around 12 at Max noise this table was waaaaayyyyyy out. It was expecting a BFS of mid 20s at max, so the line pressure would never harden up. At the moment, I'm just using the max as set from factory, and have moved it to the appropriate section of the table. Shifts are clean and crisp without the massive delay. This is why NM35s have trouble with the tiptronic once you add some more power in there. The computer isn't expecting to see the BFS the way it does, and then doesn't have an appropriate line pressure to suit when you ask it to shift. Its not a replacement for the transgo kit, because that is needed to hold the higher pressures. Its wet everywhere here atm, and after doing that, in rwd the bloody thing spins up the first 3 gears!

Well, just worked backwards using an average of my 2 NA dyno runs. Every 1psi makes an extra 11.3kw in the current scale. Hardly scientific / precise, but its a start?

Thanks guys- It is a good feeling I have something I can get into, knowing that it has been run, tested, and made safe. Its defiantly very torquey- Jetwreck will share some impressions I'm sure once he gets a chance to drive it. HKS Wastegate was set with a spring (or a fart seeing its so light). No other boost control at this stage. Its a pretty nice steady line

Nope. Do reckon they'll hit your suspension.

Agree, saw bbennys who ran Kuhmos and looks square, my contis actually have a bit of stretch to them- go figure. Same sizes.

Turns out we were a little off Things to note (no excuses! but various factors) Unigroup has whats explained to me as a "sad" dyno, not a Happy dyno like Envy Imports, Temp was about 31 or 32 in the cell by this stage. The Run was done in 4th Gear (unlike NM35s who use 3rd because of the speed cut) Yavuz seriously knows his shit- as someone else had mentioned, dude is a scientist. He whipped out the calculator and estimated 175kw from my previous dyno sessions. Full boost comes on just after 2500rpm, and holds to just under 4 SPI by 6500rpm. That line you can see is 4 psi- sorry my photo is a bit crooked! Its pretty much full noise by about 4750rpm. Very nice flat graph. AFR's are very conservative- starts at 12.5 and lowers to 11.5 by max RPM Sorry, don't have a video, because I was in the car with Yavuz, going through the software. Very positive feedback from him re Uprev- comment was its much more user friendly than NISTune, and more set up like full after market (Link G4 / Haltech etc) Someone must have snuck in and replaced my gearbox with a sponge when I wasn't looking- its gone to shit. I have the classic NM35 3 second wait before it snaps the next gear in manual mode. I believe that I can change this- the ECU has a torque management table - what we did to the base schedule was basically halve it (due to injectors and K value), so this needs to be applied to the gearbox too- the ECU tells the box when to expect max power, and adjusts the line pressures to suit. So thats a little project for me. Hot start is acceptable- I have to work on cold start, as the car hasn't been cold! So there you go- I'm a little bummed that I didn't crack 200, however its a blast to drive, the power is pretty instant, torque is great, it is (like every unigroup tune) a very safe and usable map. When done- the price was unbelievable. I actually paid him more than he asked, I thought he ripped himself off- told him to look out for me next time! projects- plug the o2 sensors back in when its cold- see if the problem remains, cold start tuning, Gearbox scaling (will need mark from Abbeys help here), see how much I have left on the stock MAF, get upgraded MAF and shove 7PSI down it until something breaks! SCOTTY- got your package today thanks. Hope nothing has melted-

+1 With that offset you can easy fit some 245s in there. Do it. Fill the guards with rubber!

Did you read my post...? I run 19x8.5 +22 Tyres are 225/40/19 - I chose this because there is much more range than a 235/40/19. Mine is a E46 BMW M3 optional front size tyre, where I believe that 235/40 is only a Alfa Romeo 159 tyre- much more expensive when I was looking. 245 is an option too, but I don't know how that would go fitting in without rubbing...? Your car is lowered. You do not have stock springs in it. This will give the car some camber, as it changes geometry. Hopefully it won't be an issue getting compliance. PM me with what wheels you are thinking- I want to make sure you don't go through what I went through.

Offset is fine- it is only 2mm further out than mine. Nil need for camber or rolling of guards on a std lowered car. What I would suggest is getting at least 40 or 45 profile tyres. Forget 35- will not handle as well, and ruin compliance, and possibly your wheels. Find another size in 40 or 45 to suit the stock rolling diameter. There are plenty of calculators online.

superchargedg-2003 coupe 5at-stock block-stillen stage 4-a couple more things-340rwhp on a dynapack(i dont believe it though) about 25,000 miles driven hard at times. 382rwhp and 396rwt on the greddy twins at 9psi. And its a 5at. 05/26/10 Update 82,000 miles FI'ed with 30,000 with the twins Canadian - 2006 5AT Coupe. JWT TT @ 7psi ~370whp. Fast Intentions Exhaust, Defi Blue Racer gauges. Installed and tuned by Relentless Autosports. Built 5AT. Stock internals. 37k miles boosted 53k total. voryGT-V-2004 Coupe 6MT, Greddy Twins,6psi low 350 whp and 10 psi 400high ,Fcon pron, plenum spacer, all bolt ons,15k on boosted motor, still running strong. Mark350gt - 404whp 9psi. HKS Fcon VPRO. 750cc injectors, walbro fuel pump, and a bunch of other stuff. 13,xxx miles no prob. These are a few of the poeple with higher kms. I'm a bit sick of people saying its a grenade. They got that rep because idiots in the US (and here too) didn't know how to tune them. Lessons have been learnt. I'm not saying its a strong as a VQ25, but don't underrate them either.

Agree tuning is the key- which is why I'm using who I'm using. Det doubles or triples the load on the rods- thats what does them in. Idiot tuners jam heaps of ignition in them to bring them on hard- thats whats to be avoided as far as I can tell. Detonate on 98, detonate on E85- both will kill the motor, as it would any other motor. They just have to be tuned without producing overly high cylinder pressures. Scotty- put it this way- by the time I went an bought a tank of E85, and drove it home, it'd just be about time to turn around and go to fill it back up. In the future, if it gets rolled out widespread around sydney- I'll think about it. I'm not keeping a fing barrel in my garage. This is a daily!