PN-Mad

Ok, I'm going to cut and paste comments from 350z club- I was hoping for some feed back on a problem I got, but I have nil response there. So here goes. And I'ma slap the first C34 owner that says coilpacks.... I have currently found my car has a issue. The car is a Stagea, with a VQ35de motor, and auto gearbox. Most componants are shared with a 350z.I have installed the HKS single turbo kit. Car is currently running stock injectors/plugs and pump, and obviously isn't getting driven hard. I have aftermarket versions of all, but am holding off putting them in. I have a tuner version of Uprev for my car. I first noticed that the car and a uneven idle, and smelt rich. Using Uprev cipher I had a look at the values- first thing I noticed was that the injector Pluse width was uneven across the banks. One bank was sitting on about 2.8ms, and the other fluctuated around 3.8-4.0ms- meaning one side is running richer than the other. With the HKS Kit, all 4 sensors are positioned in the turbo dump pipe. All sensors are active, and have similiar readings- ie- sensors are not dead. The car runs well in open loop, but has a stumble only when it switches to closed loop- ie crusing at light throttle, or at idle. I did some logging with uprev, and the AFR at idle seems to be good at around 14.7-15.0, and both sensors apear to read the same value. I also graphed the comparison between banks, and it appears around the 80%/120% range The problem has been getting worse as the ECU is learning its fuel trim. The engine uses a returnless fuel rail, so one side isn't getting more fuel pressure than the other I have the ability to turn on and off sensors using uprev, and that was going to be my next step. Any sugestions from the experts would be welcome. I don't really want to take my car anywhere, and I don't trust mechanics with it, and furthermore, very few mechanics can live up to what they say they can do. There is a very similar case on my350z.com, but with nil answers. Update - I had the data open this morning, and cleared the learned fuel settings. That instantly improved idle and the balance between the two banks. I don't know exactly how long its taken to re-learn that imbalance, but it was a couple of days. Looking at the data,the most variance between the widebands is 0.01, while the Banks have a inj pluse width of 2.9ms and 4.1 ms. Update- So, I unplugged one top O2 sensor thus making the car only run in open loop- ran fine. I re-connected it today, and the problem was instantly back - EXCEPT- it switched sides. IE the other bank is now too rich, and its pulling fuel from the original problem bank. Unplugged both lower sensors and reset learned fuel. It was ok, but learned the problem again in about 35kms. So Any thoughts here?

http://www.importmon...8.jpg&title=C34 Got NFI if they are series 1 or 2, not my best topic.... but is this what your looking for? Moar! http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=http://page10.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/m93193880&thumb=http://f5.auctions.c.yimg.jp/img373.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/users/7/2/0/6/t_34513-thumb-1327023470683388.jpg&title=C34%204%20LED

Hi dcdc. Richzx is right. We would love to see a thread about your plans for the car, what you have achieved so far, and fabrication. We are a Community here that love the Stagea. Doesn't matter what form it takes, we love them all. You have no doubt garnered info from here to make your plans, and we have tried to help you along the way. The community is only as strong as its members. I think this site, along with another Stagea site, is the premier place for info over the whole net. I'm sure the Russians have something similar, but put you hand up if you speak Russian..... I personally Doff my Hat to you. I think its a crazy insane great project. If its a spectacular failure, which none of us hope it is, then so be it- you tried, and thats what counts. Plenty of people spin loads of shit on the site; but pics, plans and set backs all make for great reading along the way (just have a look at some of the threads in the builds section). None of us will judge you for that. We all change our minds about our cars very regularly! I think you have taken some of us by surprise about the magnitude of your build. Hope to see a build thread and some more pics and plans soon.

Take the bottom panel off - its one screw, and then trace the wire. That might help you out.

Happy looking Belgian (?) Shepard. Looks to be the same colour as mine- Silverstone WV2. Beige interior- hmmm do not want, but might be better for dog hair. Nice mate!

possible that its the tilt for the outer mirrors when you are in reverse. Think about asking the seller? Just press it and find out. oh, and PHOTOS please!

Diameter of the Coupes midpipe is bigger. Sound like yours is mucked around with, Jase. Cheap cheap upgrade for those who don't want loud exhaust, but want a bit sportier note. I sold my midpipe to Tronzstagea- Troy, who now is selling/sold? his car- He's in Vic, see if he wants to send it back up to NSW!

Washed mine in anticipation of the ZClub.com.au Sydney meet tomorrow. Hoping the rain holds off!

Congrats Dan. Saw your post in the Forced Induction thread. Enjoy the new toy.

Understand?

These cars have an alloy rear subframe that was welded by Stevie Wonder. What are you looking to tow with it?- a little box trailer with occasional garden stuff, or a very SMALL boat, you might get away with it. Otherwise you'll just crack the subframe and be up for $. If its auto, you then have to look at a cooler. You are better off getting a old ute/fourby to tow and leave the 350 for cruising!

F-ing cheap imports in NZ..... Have you considered the interiors of the two cars? They are vastly different. Its the place where you spend most the time. For the daily, I'd go the 350RX, it actually is much more drivable around town, due to the throttle response and instant torque. Turbo may produce more overall, but driving the 3.5 commuting is much nicer.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx This is the source. There is too much rubbish floating around online about mods and legality etc. This is from DOTARS, and for example, I'll take an excerpt from the "Engine" section. By Certification, it means inspection and certification under state road/traffic authorities Ie in NSW, that would be VSCCS after they made "engineers certs" defunct. This must be read in conjunction with the ADR's. 1.1 BASIC MODIFICATIONS NOT REQUIRING CERTIFICATION The following are Basic Modifications that may be performed without certification providing the modifications are carried out in compliance with the requirements detailed in Clause 2 General Requirements:  Fitting a replacement new, used or reconditioned engine;  Fitting a manufacturer’s optional engine together with any associated components as supplied by the manufacturer for that same model vehicle;  Fitting replacement original equipment engine and exhaust components;  Fitting replacement original equipment, equivalent or better, components that have no influence on engine performance or emissions (e.g. higher volume oil pump than original); and  Fitting equivalent engines with an increase of up to 20% of original power. In all of the above cases, if the engine is modified, it must be certified under the relevant Code of Section LA. 1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA CODES The following is a summary of modifications that may be performed under Section LA:  Fitting engines greater than 120% of original power and/or engine mass;  Fitting performance engines;  Fitting engines from non original equipment sources;  Installing a supercharger or turbocharger; and  Modifying the engine and engine components that results in an increase in engine power of more than 20% and/or affects exhaust emissions.

The manifolds do have heat shield- HKS supplied- yours didn't? The temp of air at the AFM which is right in the middle of the engine bay is only 26-31 degrees. I think wrapping the turbo would be more of a priority.

I think he has enough on his plate, and doesn't need to advertise. He does some architectural stuff as well.

Wat? See no point wrapping/coating intake piping, unless its to make it less noticeable in the engine bay. Turbo outlet to intercooler is custom. Used some parts of the kits piping, but most had to be fabricated. Fabricator asked to remain nameless.

But this is the Magical Scotty- I've heard about your prowess- a normal mans 4 hour job is a Scotty 1 hour job! And it doesn't say HKS on it.... not that I'm a brand whore.... much To Do - Turbo blanket/beanie, and I've got left over heat wrap, so I'll do the dump, and get some flat heat mat on the rest of the firewall.

Make it under $1000. Then- Fedex won't charge a AQIS Fee, you won't pay GST etc. Thats the difference between a SAC (Self Assessed Clearance) and a FID(Full Import Deceleration) By the way- Fedex don't charge for Quarantine inspections on SAC entries, but DHL/UPS will. Oh, and if its a SAC entry it doesn't matter jack what you actually stick to the package regarding decelerations. Everything is assessed electronically, and everything from tirerack gets looked at. Oh, and Customs don't look for dirt- unless it has guns drugs or roids in it... Happy Buying!

Dale, to be honest, there is no way in hell I'd be taking this out again to coat it. If I had my time again, I would have taken you up on the offer, and had it done. It'd be well worth it. That being said, I'm only seeing intake temp of 27 degrees on the freeway @ 110. Round some twists when there is a little more boost, its up to about 31 degrees Whats that like compared to VQ25dets? I know there will be a difference in the boost, and therefore temp- but what are you guys seeing? Oh, forgot this pic. This is the cabin filter that was supposedly replaced before I bought the car, next to the new one....

Both good points. I'm hoping my one bank rich problem has gone away- I might have fixed it, now just got to wait and see what the car does. Scotty, your welcome to come up and try to fit on a turbo beanie!!!! I'm developing a case of the CBF with the car at the moment. It will go away though....

Don't go 1/2 way to your goal. A V35 300 sedan is not going to feel like your driving a 350GT Manual. You will be much disappoint. Not saying that they are bad cars, just if its your goal then don't go 1/2 way. Buy a Camry/Corolla- Enjoy the reliability and cheapness of it- Then when "circumstances" allow, get your V35 350GT as a weekender.

Ok, some pics. Any questions, ask away- This is the oil feed for the turbo- its a t piece off the oil pressure sender. Craig has taken to writing HKS on various parts of my car- ie- the trans cooler bracket.

DE heads would be easier in your franken-engine, and easier to control with Engine management. I'd say you'd have a lot of trouble getting the ECU to control 4 electronic cams, rather than two hydraulic ones. But its up to you. What car is it in?

In before Jetwreck sees the name in the photo Oh yeah - What Scott said- directs you to sushi and is personal organiser in mine too...

Thought my exhaust was quiet- so got one of those Apps that measure Db. Don't know how accurate they are, but hey. Measured according to the testing procedures- Exhaust height, 45 degree angle, 500mm away from tips Measured 90db @ 4000rpm. Legal !