PN-Mad

So Mark has signed on with Ch 10 for next years commentary team. Hopefully this means that hack Jones gets the boot, as jones doesn't like MW from previous comments....

Time for an update! I pulled out my brake pads after last trackday, and saw that they were pretty much toast. Blistered up, chunks coming out, and starting to come away from the backing plate. These were QFM A1RMs. While they actually felt fine on the track, didn't get fade or anything, it was pretty clear I got to the end of what they were capable of. So I gave Brakesdirect a call, and got some Winmax pads. GeeTeeTeacup had a great experience with them, so I thought I might give them a go. I also use their TRW GP600 fluid, which I've never hand an issue with. Well, they look pretty shiny! I ended up going with W5 front, W3 rear, at their recommendation. So I gotta bed them in, which sounds challenging by the instructions they give I finished off some of the details on my undertray. I'm pretty happy with it, it hasn't folded under the car at 120km/h on the freeway... 220km/h on eastern creek main straight might be a better challenge! Will see come summer. I put some of this shit in the diff. I had Nulon in there, but the guys at Award recommend this for me. Thick as Fk! Had to put it into a bucket of hot water for me to be able to pump it. Anyway, it might quiet down the diff from hell, but I doubt it. I pulled my seat out, and figured that one of the mounting tabs on the rail had actually snapped clean off last time out at wakefield,so thanks to Daleo, thats getting welded up with some gussets to make it a bit stronger, and I'm improving some of the fixtures for safety. Also, knocked a bit of boost out of the Profec. Since I resealed all the turbo gaskets, and reseated the turbine housing, I was actually overboosting by about 1.5psi on my settings. So I took it back down, gate pressure is 11psi, low boost 16psi, and high 18psi. I wondered how healthy the motor was (after it overboosted a couple of times due to a loose fitting... 30psi lolz), so I comp tested it again, and I was very happy. 160/155/160/155 means it has loved the last year and a bit of thrashing around tracks! And finally I got myself kitted out with a camera! Bought a Sony Action Cam off a member, ordered a roll bar mount for it, so I should have some good vids of the upcoming SAU NSW trackday at SMSP South!

They may have tread for 300 laps, but doesn't mean they will have grip for that long. If your planning more sprints and hill climbs, the softs would still be the go I guess.

Great to see at least a couple of ADMs there too on the Vid! Wish I could have attended. Looks like a fantastic day for the club. Well done to the organisers, for all the hard yards put in behind the scenes.

Four models. From base pack to most luxo RS RX ARX (raises susp, and adds wheel arch trims) AXIS (colour coded wheel arch trims and diff grill) Now all models 2001-2003 will be AWD, turbo, and 5at. We can't import the pleb NA models. Or the RWD early models. Different grades have different options. Just being a higher grade, actually doesn't guarantee it will have more options than any other car. Research the options, and figure out ones you want. Honestly, just being a mechanic isn't really enough for these cars. They have defeated many mechanics due to the quirks of the car. That being said, there is a massive amount of info on here about them, and what I would consider the most knowledgable people in the WORLD on these cars. Best comb the for sale sections like Leon said, as you often can pick up nice examples, with a few of what we consider "must do" mods, already done. Good luck, and welcome to the community!

With my entry in the club day, I won't be able to support in person. But bet your arse I'll be following developments!!! And just saying, go the 13s!!!!!!!! SR poweh yissss!

It's got a nismo dash.... So, what does that tell us about kms?

Fighting in the RWD corner. Like a real man.

He did. 7 day tyres at Clyde. Hope you got your fourth cap.

If you can get the car up in the air easy, you could try just buying some cheap as fk 20-50w motor oil, drop the redline, fill it up and run it through the gears to flush it round. Try to get some heat into it using the rear brakes. Repeat, then fill with your preferred oil. $15 for some dirt cheap mineral oil. You just wouldn't want to leave it in the box for permanent use.

Edit, I think it's GL5, but the specs on the site don't actually say. I think one of the issues is that it's super sticky. I changed a box out, put some conventional coloured oil back in it. Serviced that and the bloody stuff came out blue as. I had the tranny serviced with some synchros changed, and fresh bearings. The recommendation for oils for me was the royal purple synchro max ( RPs version on ATF for manual boxes), simple dextron III ATF, or shockproof. I went with ATF, this was for a S14 box.

Double post

That's because you have a different ratio. 3.3:1 vs 3.5:1

Yup, I'll be bolting on my super grip magic rubber that takes every last bit of skill out of the equation, and pretty much makes my car a F1 car. Run what ya brung Aggro....

So they confirmed that it wasn't something as simple as one of the cam sensors on the back of the heads? At a fraction of the cost, it might be worth swapping a few around!

30-65-18 (300mm, making the tread block 290-295 or something) That's just how michelin do their race tyres. S7D would make these SOFTS for anyone wondering.

I tend to agree, any differences would be so small. But clean intake is better than Dirty. Oil residue/mist tends to reduce the octane value of the overall fuel burn. For something that is as easy to clean as the vq35, it's worth doing IMO.

I suppose you want him to upgrade his platinum plugs to copper ones, so he can gap them to 1.5? Want to tell him he should get new coil packs, and clean the AAC valve while your there...? Cover all the RB bases then..

Yup, get a catch can plumbed in line, on the PCV hose. You can fit a small one down by the power steering fluid. Make sure it's something that does work, not just an empty can. I packed mine with stainless steel wool, it collects about 1/4 cup of oil ever 10,000kms, that would otherwise be either burnt or deposited.

If your TB was gummed up, then the rest of the intake will have suffered the same fate. Removal and cleaning of the intake plenum should provide a cleaner intake environment. I use uprev to do my logging and diagnosis, but they stopped selling just the diagnosis package. Series 2 cars are obdII compliant, so I think you have a fair few options, including some of the android apps and stuff. Somebody might chime in here with what they are using. Defiantly don't play with the plug gap. This isn't a RB. It's not relevant.

Yeah, some "it's easy on my C34" answers here I don't know what your freeways are like, but I drove mine sydney to melb and back twice in a week. AC on, two people and bags, cursing at about 120 indicated (110) and returned about 10.5/100kms. The best thing you can do is make sure everything is serviced with correct fluids and filters. Secondly, check tyre pressure, and raise it to 35-37ish. You can take then plenum off and clean it out, they attract a fair bit of blow by oil, and it's good to give it a clean out. Get it on the freeway with a laptop, and check the O2 sensors are auto correcting the mixture when it's on closed loop. What fuel you guys have over there? What are you using?

That's perfectly normal. The 260RS had the RB25det on the build plate as they rolled off the line and were converted by Autech. How to confirm your looking at the real deal is to run the VIN in FAST (see thread in "general automotive" if in doubt) and the details will come up.

Lol. MM.

Toe settings are wrong. Get them reset. -3.00 total toe on the front +2.5 total toe on the rear. Camber is fine. Wind off the rear damper.