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PN-Mad

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Everything posted by PN-Mad

  1. Yep.So 2.2 second 60 foot time. Awd launch with boost will shave 0.4 seconds off that easy. V35 with too much neg camber and a commo spec diff will never get off the line... Edit: But it will make all the honda drivers jizzz.
  2. I've got some. It's is pretty harsh stuff. I use it as a paint cleanser when detailing. You do it before you clay bar. I have used it on wheels, with a mixed result. Good on lightly contaminated clean wheels, but it won't lift real heavy old stained wheels. And it smells like Shit.
  3. I would not discount the value of being able to pick up the phone and call someone about the Ecu.
  4. It's over 10 years old, and therefore it doesn't come with a stat warranty I believe.It would be a third party extended warranty.
  5. Mate, who puts all of the cars problems in an advert...? Anyway, who your looking for is the Consumer affairs.. Go call them and see if they can point you in the right direction. Then maybe ACA after that, ask for Tracy. Btw, the ad says it has Air Con, therefore you would be within your rights to ask for it. I wouldn't pay for it to be put back on...
  6. The dealer is right. He has first right to fix it I think. Why don't you give it to him and ask to see receipts of the parts, ie, cam seals, when you collect it. The warranty he sold you too, isn't really worth much. I hope you read the fine print.
  7. If it was me, I'd go for the adaptronic. Reason being you get local support and some good tuners that operate locally. Wait and see how the test car goes, and then you can talk to DVS Jez about the set up. The support of it sways my choice over the hks product. I suspect you might come out with a few dorrahs change too over HKS when you look at getting a loom too.
  8. Get yourself some tools, order the cam cover seals, and change them yourself. It is not a hard job If your sick of dodgy mechanics, work on the car yourself and learn.
  9. RIP Paul. Look at the wreck buddy. They weren't cruising at 30mph...
  10. They were approached ages ago, weren't interested. They haven't had anything to do with a Can Bus system anyway. There are more promising re flashing companies out there that do modern cars....
  11. Nothing quite like being nuts deep.... Nohomo
  12. I have the same nuts as Dale.
  13. Doesn't sound bad. Interesting mix of sounds going on there. Definatly no ordinary turbo on that. The still pics show a roof scoop installed! Lol.
  14. The 350S was a series one car... Sounds like a lot of work. Don't envy you. Starter gets moved to the other side, right?
  15. And the first time you take it there, request that they disassemble the intake system and give the whole thing a clean out. The DD motors suffer terrible build up inside the plenum and intake runners from EGR and blow by.
  16. I liked the RSRs better tbh. And they went faster for me at Wakefield too. But the r888 were epically old. Only reason the 55s came to life was tyre softener. But hey, Hankooks and yokos are big dorrahs that I don't have.
  17. Suck compared to the same age (farkin old) re55s I got. Hey Dave, I've got some R888s down stairs for you! Lol.
  18. Yes. It was a series one car modified by Autech. And Scotty is just being a bish. All he needs is a wrecked manual V35 S1 sedan, but he keeps buying nugget Stageas for parts cars...
  19. Sure use a sump spacer plate - its a good fix. The only reason I couldn't is that the awd sumps are different to the RWD sumps- thus having to fab in the return. 560cc will be fine - as long as you can give your tuner the details of the injector (Latancy, min pulse V etc) it will work. Remember to go to a higher flow fuel pump too. Im not familiar with the US kits, infact, I don't even know if they would work on a RHD car... The HKS kit I am familiar with, you have to make a hole in the front composite reo to fit the intercooler piping through. All of the Z33 cars already have this hole and multiple kits use this. If its a G35 specific kit, then you'll be cutting, or they'll route it a different way. I never had to de-gas the AC or anything, just pushed some of the lines at the side of the Rad out of the way to make room for the IC piping. Still worked fine, and still does. Regarding the turbo - I'd suggest if your keeping the stock engine and not building it, something in the GT3076 range, with the biggest rear housing you can buy. Scotty will chim in, I think he runs a 1.02 tial or something. That would be ok, but you will need a fark off big external wastegate too: 50+mm, preferable 60mm. reason being is that your trying to bypass so much exhaust gas. I suspect if you used a stock NM35 turbo you may well have uncontrollable boost, as the wastegate wouldn't flow enough. yes, depending on the kit, it is very possible to do with without taking the engine out. We installed and took out the HKS kit without removing the engine. The most PITA is the headers, and the crossover pipe. BTW - you missed out on a second hand complete HKS Z33 turbo kit that was for sale on Z club for $2100. It pays to keep your eyes out for the second hand market...
  20. We'll see results on the drag strip
  21. But when I go to lowdown / jdmst /zen meets, who is going to wank off over my stock wheel nuts?
  22. Sounds like a good idea. Hard to identify drivers sometimes, as some kents love changing helmets like undies. Even the commentators get caught out sometimes.
  23. Yup, I have had batteries that have held volts, but wouldn't provide a bees dick of amperage. Perhaps borrow a battery out of something just for a test. Then you can really rule it out.
  24. What's the best rope to tie up a backpacker? That depends. Is your backpacker knocked unconscious, or kicking and struggling? What weight is your backpacker? Do you need to travel a long way to dump them off, or a relatively short distance? Do they have a skin condition, and need a softer rope, not a harsh scratchy rope? All valid questions when trying to choose a object for a job. I hope this has made you think about your question.... Also, see thread linked above. Will prove most useful. And... In before Lock.
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