PN-Mad

Hahah. Obviously haven't checked out what Matt is doing...

can take multiple goes to get the idle to learn. Then again, if the throttle is fkd, then it probably won't want to do it. When you get it correct it is quite obvious - revs climb to 2000 - drop to just above stall, and then settle. Looks like you might be up for a new Throttle body. Scotty will be able to hook you up.

posting for the 11ty time... Did you clear the fault code as well, and it came back? Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning DESCRIPTION Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connectorof accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected. OPERATION PROCEDURE 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning DESCRIPTION Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electricthrottle control actuator or ECM is disconnected. OPERATION PROCEDURE 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch ON. 3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning DESCRIPTION Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed under any of the following conditions: Each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced. Idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification. PREPARATION Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment. Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle) Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F) Park/neutral position (PNP) switch: ON Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger) On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, theheadlamp will not be illuminated. Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position) Vehicle speed: Stopped Transmission: Warmed-up For A/T models with CONSULT-II, drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates less than 0.9V. For A/T models without CONSULT-II and M/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes. OPERATION PROCEDURE With CONSULT-II 1. Perform EC-42, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" . 2. Perform EC-42, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" . 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order. 5. Select “IDLE AIR VOL LEARN” in “WORK SUPPORT” mode. 6. Touch “START” and wait 20 seconds. 7. Make sure that “CMPLT” is displayed on CONSULT-II screen. If “CMPLT” is not displayed, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE below. 8. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. Without CONSULT-II NOTE: It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. It is impossible to switch the diagnostic mode when an accelerator pedal position sensor circuit has a malfunction. 1. Perform EC-42, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" . 2. Perform EC-42, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" . 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order. 5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds. 6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds. 7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds. a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. 13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. In this case, find the cause of the incident by referring to the DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE below.

80 foot pounds / 108 Nm.... says Dr Google. From the G35 sites.

Great option. It's never going to be a power house like a turbo motor. But this would be a great option. Cheap motor, set it up using headers and ITBs. No need to even open it, besides cams. Enjoy the noise and cruise in a awesome sounding and looking car. Leave the power to the R.

Yep, but be prepared you'll have to do the throttle relearn after to get a decent idle. Use brake cleaner, it's a little less harsh than throttle body. People say they have a coating you can strip off with carny cleaner, the coating is suppose to prevent build up. I think it's kind of ironic tbh, since your in thereto clean the shit anyway. Coating doesn't work real good... Instructions for the throttle reset on the internet. It's a pedal timing thing. Like the ecu lights.

Have ÿou taken the throttle off, and had a look at it? Don't touch/move the throttle butterfly. It may well be clogged up with shit. It's always the plenum side, not the intake side. The car does a throttle check every time the car shuts down. If it's not in spec, as in shit is preventing it fully shutting, it could throw a code.

That might be a tuner package thing. I haven't updated my software in a while. I'm sort of hesitant, as options started disappearing last few updates. edit- its in the Rom Editor software.

Try logging using the feature in the ecu writing software. There is another way to log, I just can't remember which software program it's in. That has afr as well.

Yup, but not free! Lol Matt, look into second hand systems. Anything from the V35 sedans or the earlier model m35s will fit. Seeing as you have a lot more imports over there, I suspect you should be able to find something in the wreckers pretty easy. Can't have the m35 sounding shit next to a crummydore!

Good point regarding remote tuner. In my experience they have been dead on accurate. And have the ability to read further up the line than the one your tuner sticks in the end of the exhaust. Also, it can point towards single bank issues if one is leaner than the other. It's a useful tool.

I wouldn't call it modifying in the cheap. I'd call it modifying smartly. If you want a bit of extra flow and noise, the v35 mid pipe is an awesome option. Especially seeing as it's an often thrown away part once coupe owners install after markets. It's Oem quality. It's a larger bore than the stock m35 item, and has a less restrictive muffler. It's also about 1/3 of the weight. Not everyone wants to, or can spend $1300 getting a fujitsubu delivered from japan...

Yup, read the instructions. Failing that. Memory is a little hazy, haven't used it for a while. Go into the options menu at the top, down the bottom should be an afr/wideband section. Enter that, and type in your ecu part #, and type of wideband. Logging will then be in AFR. Question is. What tuner doesn't have their own mixture sensor attached anyway.....?

When's the last time you saw one of these snap a driveshaft....? Agree, not the best solution, but risk is a 0.0000000000001 thing.

The mid pipe mod won't drone. Neither does the fujitsubu nor the nismo. If you've seen them, you'll know why.

Just to be perfectly clear. It's a V35 coupe mid pipe you want. The sedans have the same type exhausts as us.

Yup, it was an PNM35 owner that did it first Exactly as Nick has said. Fits, but best to remove driveshaft loop, cause it bangs. 350z is comparable too. Just need to lengthen it by 7-8 inches from memory. Best to measure yourself. Makes a bit of an improvement in the exhaust, but nothing like a proper cat back.

Yup, the pad hangs over the edge of the rotor by just a tad. A couple of mm at most. Hasn't made any difference. The rears make the noise not the fronts atm.

This is interesting... I can that I have had none of this trouble with the 280-324 bracket.

Ahhhh... Better. VL is ok. Personally I was thinking lotus esprit style things, but crummydore will do.

Do connecting rods count as supporting mods...? Good one buddy - you'll have a blast.

I bring your favourite things. Doge and Bread.

Much white, Such daily, Bored!

Did you see mine in the car park at the track day? Lol. I have a 1.5. When cold it doesn't clonk at all. When hot it clonks like a mofo. Using the penrite 90-140 or something that was recommended somewhere else. Other thing is I have no bushes. R180 is solid mounted. So the R200 might be a bit nicer.

And not about "fuel" either with this prescribed maximum flow rate.