PN-Mad

Could you please post some pics? It will help your sale.

Congrats on the purchase. Wheels are stock AR-X rims. Goods springs are nismo ones. The rest pale in comparison IMO. Had eibachs, wouldn't go back. Your in the right track with the other things. Get some good pads and fluid in it to get the most out of the stock brakes.

Remember your talking 2 tonnes. 12s aren't easy to come by with that weight. So don't be disappointed with something in the 13s

Maybe, just maybe you want Tracy to come to your front door...

Good to hear You look to have the same traction issues as me.....

Tracy will be knocking at your front door brah....

I'd say that's your issue. They are big ass injectors. Even if the cranking enrichment is a little bit out, it's going to be dumping fuel. Simple fix. Let it warm before turning it off, just a couple of mins should do it.

Might have flooded if your cold start mapping is quite rich. Cars don't like being started and shut off in 15 seconds time. Forget this if you warmed it up first....

Nope.

How much stall do you get off the line with the high flow Dale?

This will give you an idea. Remember shipping and taxes if applicable. Hit up your local place and ask them some questions. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=245%2F&ratio=35&diameter=19

Neither of those tyres are semi slicks in the true nature. What are you trying to achieve? The car is certainly not going to handle any good for a race tack with a 35 series tyre.

Well, it's worked for you in the past.......

Post pics!

Repco - they sell re-branded PWR products. Get them to give you their catalogue flick through and pick the one you want. 3/8ths from memory. Thermostat is neither here nor there. Depends if you are driving 10 mins or 30 mins to work.

You can set it up however. Only limit is you imagination. I'm sure you can set it up to work when you select reverse, or just put a little push button hidden or something. I think the guys get a week out of it before it throws a CEL, so its not a big deal.

Forget the electronic throttle "controllers" most just find the brake wire cut mod is sufficient- There is a wire that tells the ecu that the brake pedal has been applied, and for the next 3-4 secs after its been applied it limits throttle percentage. Cut that, and you get better throttle response but a systematic CEL which can be wiped by applying power to the wire every so often.

Yup, turbo banjo oil feed. It's considered one of the issues why the turbos flog out. It's quite small, and can clog with bad servicing and or a bit of foreign material. A larger hole allows better oiling with no downsides. Yup shift kit and a external cooler is a very good idea.

100mph or piss fart away I think.

Just the basic things- Budget for a turbo to blow. It will. You'll need to rebuild it. Check for snow car - will be obvious- layer of surface rust on the underside. See if the wheel bearings are making any noise. Check the windows, check the stereo hasn't clapped out. Once you buy it, get at least a dump and front pipe to ease the restriction on the turbo, and combine that with drilling out the banjo bolt for a bit more flow. That will prolong the life of the stock turbo. Check if it has stock computer, or you might luck out and get a nismo, or worse get a who knows what it is computer. Ben isn't pushy - he lets his cars do the talking. They IMO are the nicest cars, but doesn't mean they haven't had the haircut before reaching him. Most in the country have. Lastly, drive a Series 2 car as well, and see how they compare.

Why not just run it....? I know what Dale wants! Something slower than a 13.8!

Yeah, I will. No set plans at this stage. Waiting for Jetwreck to sort out his bucket o'shit, and then we might go together.

So the new radiator neck is on, and its night a day difference for the cooling system. It pressurises nicely (not gas) and actually stays cooler- sif it had a overheating prob anyway, but now hot at idle it sits at 68-69 degrees. Hoping that was the issue and its not the gasket, but we'll find out.AND it draws back in!!!!! With much thanks to Pezhead, I now have my GoPro vids and Data overlay. We couldn't match up every many things, as the sessions were interupted with the roll and that clutch, but we match two. Just so happens the two are the two "offs" I had, so you can all see how much of a hack driver I am! I'm not sure what happened in the second video, but in transferring it seems to have moved the Beacon of the start finish line to the 3 sector marker, but data is there anyway (there is a bit of difference swapping between programs for some reason). Looking back on the data, on my 1:11 laps I lost about 3 seconds through T2. So If I can get that right and put all the sectors together it's good for a 1.08 which is pleasing. Example.... Comparing best laps (overall time- sector 1 split, sect 2, sect 3) Lap5(best) 01:10.453 00:22.064 00:25.399 00:22.990 (+00.490) Lap3 01:11.589 (+00:00.278) 00:26.151 (+00.975) 00:24.545 00:20.893 Anyway- Enjoy.

nah, its a restrictor buddy. You should have pulled it out instead of trying to force it and stripping the thread. I removed it on my GTR calipers to get it to work. Get a right sized screw, and screw it in the hole and pull them out with pliers. Then you'll find your new lines sit flat. However, now you either need to go find a new caliper, or get the hole welded, drilled and tapped and flushed. No way I would just trust a re-cut thread into a brake caliper.

Does the hole have a restrictor in it that can be removed?