PN-Mad

They openly said they were messing with his head in the off season to prevent some of the issues reoccurring. Maybe took a little too much out of him. Fine line I guess.

Drive like a mad man? Isn't that the end of speed limit sign?

QFT.

While being very dubious about any import being 36k Kms old, I'll let it slide because Kms has nothing to do with knock. Ping is most likely to occur in the peak torque range of the motor. That's why when you look at an ign map, through the mid range timing advance decreases and gets returned higher in the rev range. As I said. Too much ign advance and or poor quality fuels, or fuel starvation. It needs to be put on consult and read as to what it's actually doing. Even stock Ecus have static timing adjustment which means you could make it ping.

Oh, and get it sorted quick, cause every time you hear it, it's doing damage.

I disagree. The ecu isn't that smart. You will hear the rattle a long time before the ecu drops into high det mode. In fact motors have been lost cause the ecu hasn't dropped into hi det. Take your car to Nissan, and get them to plug it into consult. Your mechanics obd reader sounds shit. Ask them what the timing is set on, and if you can get them to check the ign timing is right. Should be 15 degrees at idle, at least that's for a DE. They can adjust static timing, and t might be worth getting them to reduce it.

Hiya Nick, Scotty can turn you up some sleeves made from Stainless. I've got them on the M35 to run the GTR setup. Shoot him a PM. Mine are fine - been on the track. You can go to a Brembo spec GTR disc with caliper adaptors. I know UAS make some, but they are freakin expensive for what they are- like $400. For comparison, I got my GKTech ones for the RPS13 to suit GTR discs for $99. Pity they dont fit, only the 280mm disc. I don't know of any other caliper spacer off the top of my head.

Check the Trackschool Website for prices.

Replace the Dextron III, that is most likely in it, with the proper fluid and hope for the best.

postception?

whatever is easiest to vacuum the grass off.

Velo.

I'm on Nissan OEM. The only other one people use is nulon full synthetic which is compatible.

Yup, we're getting fisted. Spazda 323. 28 yo $788 green slip nrma $279 rego ( light car)

I'm hoping to have a bit better vid once someone who knows what they are doing messes round with the GoPro and data logging footage. So hang in there- something better will come along. Turns out the indicators were just a fuse. Looks like the wire the wheel decided to pull out was something indicator related, and it shorted blowing the fuse. Still don't have hazard lights, so might check that out too. I have had another thought about the head, and am going to try something else first before resorting to the head gasket. It has a intermittent leak from the neck of the china spec radiator. My thoughts are if the motor is getting hot, pushing coolant out to the overflow bottle, and then instead of drawing it back in, its drawing air from the leaking neck, that will cause the issues. So I'm going to rip the rad out, and get it welded, fill/bleed, and then chuck it on a dyno to load it up and see what happens. There is no way I can get it hot enough on the road and keep out of gaol at the same time- so a dyno is going to be it.

SAU Nickname: PN-Mad (Alex) Car Make and Model: 1994 180SX Circuit Name: Wakefield Park Lap time: 1:10.5 (GPS timer) Modifications Engine: SR20 GTX3071, 44mm gggaaaaaaattttteeee. Power: 290rwkw Suspension: Tein coilovers, whiteline bars Brakes: 324mm fnt, gtst rear, A1RM pads weight: 1100-1200 plus one fat arse driver tyres: Federal RS-R 235/45/17 First time to Wakefield, and first time driving the car in anger. Need to install some skills and try again!

Both true statments.

7500 rpm worth of back straight gate.

Uprev.

I never got it above 93, I got off it for a lap and a half, and it recovered to 86 or so. It went down at 70 on the free way, and came back at 70 on the fw. I'm losing some coolant from a join on the filler neck, but it's looking suspiciously like that other bucket of bolts red racecar that we work on Scotty Dunno. First thing is to get the grass and dust off it! Didn't use any oil, which was nice, used lots of fuel, but I never had surge issues down below half a tank.

So, I completed my first Wakefield day, and made it home! Couple of guys didn't - NC MX5 blew up a clutch, and more dramatically, a new Renault Megane RS 265 rolled at T3. That put a stop to proceedings for a while. Car was totalled. Driver walked away without a scratch. There was a lot of traffic throughout the day, couple of fast cars- WRX and a Emo. Fark you and your awd! So much grips. I had a couple of offs- both were T2. First I dropped into second to go through, where I was using 3rd all day, powered out, kept my foot in it, and ran out of talent ending up spinning onto the infield. Second was at the end of a fast lap where I totally lost my braking marker into T2, and squirmed locked the rears, and made me spin off in that awesome fashion that you see cars go off there. Ended up in the gravel, and drove out the other side. Marked up the tyres pretty bad but meh. I was laughing so hard when I got back to the pits. So I was on Federal RS-R tyres, so some of you know what they are like. Not a real semi, but quite sticky. Certainly made them work. Best time : 1:10.56 After the first session I was lapping 1:14s, so I gained 4 secs throughout the day. To back it up I did 1:11.3, and 1:11.5 laps as well. Few things to sort out- Final session I managed to rip some wiring out of the drivers side guard and lose power to my indicators - lol! Secondly, the motor was pushing a lot of coolant around, so maybe its a problem with the neck, or maybe it has lifted the head. Dunno, will check it out.

Have you tried buying a head light....? Is it a light or wiring issue? Scotty should be able to sell you a light fm the wreck.

I have the same tyre on a 8.5. What tyres do you run?

Looks like an AFM voltage manipulator. Paperweight material.

Furthest away first. Your right. Remember the g35 will have the master cyl on the opposite side, yeah? Thus telling you the wrong order. While I think you'd get away with it, I'd do it again because you know, brakes are sorta important.