luvpsi

i reckon this problem could be a AFM issue if it was a intake leak wouldnt it not run at all

better to be safe than sorry haha especially if it is modded they will be slapping on yellows just for the sake of it

sure is til the 26th yeah they reckon they have more units on the roads than ever but thats what they always say but to be safe the VL is staying in the garage this long weekend

Double demerits this weekend guys so hope everyone will be responsible and 1 keep their licenses and 2 keep their cars. may just leave mine in the garage this wekend to be safe haha have a good easter everyone and be safe

isnt the speedo drive on a r32 mechanical and the r33 electrical if so id say it has been wired wrong and may need a tacho box (i think thats what they are called)

best bet install a oil catch can plenty of threads on them

yeah nah im going to using the standard vl shroud so its not like that unfortunatly

ok ill give that a shot

hey guys currently i dont have a fan shroud and so i dont get a yellow i want to put it back on however im unsure the best way to remove the fan from the water pump pulley. i cant undo the bolts without it turning whats the best way stop it turning while undoing the bolts

its all good i forgot i had a vac line blocked off due to removal of the carbon cannister so i used one of those lines and left the map sensor line alone

cool i was just a bit worried from doing it from the same spot but after a few people saying thats fine i will do it

yeah thats the one used for the map sensor

ok cool i may just T it off from the map sensor line then

ok cool that would be great i dont want really want to put it near my FPR where everyone says but at the same time my car runs map sensor so the original boost guage port on manifold is used for that

i have searched but im not quite getting the info im needing. i want to know where i can T my boost guage off of. where the standard rb25det boost guage comes off is now used as a map sensor for the microtech. where else can i T my boost guage from.

ok so the updated geometry version what are they worth and the atr43ss-2 what are they worth

yeah thats it i got my vl back on friday and the standard tacho doesnt work due to i dont have a tacho box for it but i dont car because i have a hand controller that tells me my rpm not that i look at it

what do you need a tacho for haha use your ears or if you have a aftermarket ecu with hand controller use that haha

stao im looking at making 300rwkw on my rb25det in my thoughts the atr43G3 is my best bet what do you think the car is only going to be street driven and possibly some track days

i beleive its push type im unsure how to tell the difference but its not a 10" im putting on i said mx7 but i meant mf5 so it has the 9.5" clutch so it should fit due to the r33 being a 9.5" clutch

sorry not mx7 i meen the mf5 has a 9.5" flywheel the mx7 has a 10" flywheel i always get confused between the 2 so int hat sense it should fit aye?

id say you need to bleed your clutch it may have air in the line

hhey guys before i put my rb25det in the vl i had a standard rb30 manual (mx7) i had a 5 puk button clutch that i used for like 3000kms. seeing though the flywheel is the same size on both r33 box will this clutch work on the r33 box?

thats what i thought

hey guys got the back finally today he explained to me that due to the dent in my sump which i explained in another thread he didnt want to lean on the boost to much. so its running on the standard actuator so 8psi. he wants to wire in a boost solinoid and controll boost using the microtech however i did have a turbotech boost t that he removed. would it be worth all the stuff about using the microtech for boost controll or would i be better off using the boost t to up it to 10psi until i get my new turbo. if i do hook up the boost t would it be safe to up the boost to 10psi without a retune or would i be better off getting a retune