DaHyp3

Did this mod to my 34 on the weekend. Spools much faster and louder now and always hits 9 psi every time. Didn't bother with a switch, just cut the ground wire and earthed it out. If you have a stock skyline and haven't done this mod yet get on it. The only thing I'm thinking now is isn't the stock actuator which is no longer doing anything just taking up space? Why can't it be removed and just connect the two vac lines together? It's the same as removing it to install an ebc except until I get to that my stock boost actuator is doing the job on its own.

Non turbo had blue gt badges on the front quarters, turbo has red gt badges. Non turbos normally don't have a rear boot spoiler either.

That's a great tip, dunno why I didn't think of that. Will move my number plate up a bit higher, problem solved I reckon. Would still like to hear from anyone that has spray painted a logo onto their cooler and how they went

Hey RusH, yer have read the DIY and it is great. I'm not worried about trimming behind the bar, doesn't look too hard to do. I'm more worried about how it will look and making sure the cooler actually gets plenty of fresh air. I was thinking of making a Nismo template and spraying a logo on the cooler as well. So if anyone has done this any tips or advice would be great. The only reason I was thinking of moving the number plate is for more airflow to the cooler but tbh I think it would look quite ugly but when you look at a nismo front bar there doesn't look like a lot of surface area for air to flow through. I just wanna make sure fitting a cooler will not just look better but actually perform, otherwise it is just an expensive piece of bling.

So I am going to be fitting a blitz return flow front mount to my ER34 which has a nismo front bar. I am not worried about the actual fitment of the cooler but rather how it will look and am wondering what other people with the same bar have done. Did the number plate need to be moved? Where and how did you mount the number plate? Can anyone post some pics of 34's with the nismo bar and a fmic.

Update : Ok, so I ended up taking my car back to the workshop who did the timing belt change. I waited for a couple of hours while they "checked it over". They rang me and said they couldnt fault my car and that I could come pick it up unless I wanted them to dig further into possible ignition issues such as coil packs and spark plugs at my cost. I said nar dont worry bout that I'll just come pick it up. I picked up my 34 and drove home giving it a good bootful once it had warmed up. Not once could I get it to detonate or run like it was 3 hours before or like it had been for the last couple of weeks. The worst thing that happens now in the last few drives I have taken it on is that it sometimes decides to only hit 4-5 psi and other times 9-10psi but very rarely compared to before when it was constantly only boosting to 5. I am at a bit of a loss now... Did the workshop stuff something up and then fix it when I took it back and not want to admit it? They re-checked the timing and said it was at 15 degress base timing which it is supposed to be apparently. Maybe they just happen to fix the issue when they checked it and didnt realise it? I'm not sure at all. All I know is as long as it runs smooth like it is and should be then it doesn't matter for now. Btw my car still runs stock dual stage boost, my only mods are a cat back exhaust and a k&n panel filter. So like I said, I'm at a loss. Maybe it was the workshop, could be one of the coil packs just starting to break down, who knows. My next thing if it gives me any more trouble will be to buy all new splitfire coil packs and even though I have almost no mods go and get a Nistune and hope that either finds the problem or irons it out.

So here goes, my 34 is making a strange subtle popping noise around 1-2k revs under no boost and every now and then it's detonating when under boost around 4-5k revs. What the H is this gremlin? Before this problem started I had changed the spark plugs with Ngk platinums, exactly what was already fitted and running fine for years. During that process I had a couple of the coil pack connectors snap on me and wouldn't click back on on two of them. I thought maybe it could be the connectors so I bought brand new ones and fixed them. Nope, same thing still happening, grrr. Just after I changed the plugs myself I took the car to a reputable workshop to have the water pump and timing belt service done as I am nearing 100,000 kms. This is the only thing I am thinking could have gone wrong. I drove around for a week after the plug change and had no issues, after my timing belt was done it seemed to start happening. Is it possible the workshop messed up the timing or something?? Could one of my coil packs be on the way out? Something else entirely? On a cold start it hits full boost like normal and seems okish, maybe a little detonation. After maybe 10 minutes its like it goes into safe mode, boost won't go past 4 psi and the popping starts and more detonation starts under full throttle. It sounds like misfiring to me, but wouldn't it do this all the time, even when cold if it was a misfire issue? Which leads me to think the timing has been retarded or is out? I will call the workshop which did the belt change and question them but not sure how I will go accusing them of wrong doing. I am thinking of buying spitfire coil packs to eliminate that from the list but would rather avoid spending 400 bux if its not necessary. Anyone got any ideas, suggestions or experience with problems like this? I would really appreciate the input, cheers.

It is unfixable, broken casing and broken off hose connection. I need a new one or working 2nd hand. Does anyone know the part number for it or if an R33 boost sender would work? If an R33 one works would it send the correct signal?

I was thinking about attempting this myself on my '34 but there are too many things that go can wrong for my liking. Maybe some more clarification might help. As in, did you use a specific tool to re-press the harmonic balancer back on? How did you stop the engine from turning to loosen and tighten the crank bolt?

PM Sent

The sensor which sends the signal to my stock boost gauge in my '34 has died. From what I have been able to dig up on the forums and google, most people just replace their boost gauge. Only problem is I don't wanna do that as I already have the Nismo triple gauge set and am quite attatched to it. I did also find a D.I.Y on fixing dry solder joints which is apparently a common problem, I did try this and ended up completely destroying it, so now I need a new one. The sender / sensor unit I am speaking of is located near the brake master cylinder and has PA66-G30 written ontop of it. Does anyone know where I can get one from? I am located in Adelaide, I have tried some import wreckers and hours searching online, but no luck....

Thanks for the speedy replies guys. Yer I figured they wouldnt fit, bugga. Still tempted to grab em tho as the bloke wants 50 bux for the set with good tyres, could still use em on the rear no?

Bit of a noob question, but, I wanna take my current 19" rims off my R34 Gtt to sell and just sit it on some 15" maxima rims for a bit. Will they fit over the brakes and what will the offset do to me? It will still need to be able to be driven too... The 15" rims in question are 5 stud obviously off of a 1997 Maxima. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry mate, i dont need it atm.

Does changing out the stock plumb back bov to an aftermarket plumb back bov really accomplish much? Will it be any noisier than a stock plumb back bov?