godzilla_753

Not to offend the op but yeah this was the only way I considered it feasable, welding the head and all seemed a little dodgy to me, and plus I dont have a tig welder handy. If I had to do it again I would have the flanges laser cut and tapped with threads, we attempted to tap them ourselves but I dont know if we just suck at it or our tap set is old, we couldnt get them tapped correctly to accepts the studs. We ended up getting oversized studs and using nuts on both ends to tighten everything down. Another point to make is that the RB25 plenum doesnt leave the head straight out, most of those runners we had to cut all the way down to the flange and weld our own pipe to it. Was fairly tricky and time consuming to match up all the runners so that they left the head straight out and met the flanges correctly.

Not sure if Im understanding you correctly mate but I chopped off the runners of the stock 25 plenum and welded up some flanges to accepts the 26 throttles. After that its all a bolt on affair, well relatively, still had to figure out the tps and aac valve and all that. Runs great tho, nistune on the way from australia and I should have some good numbers to post up soon.

I did something similiar NEO head with rb26 throttles heres a pic, sorry the engine bay looks a complete mess ...will be fixing that as soon as i get a few other things sorted out And this is whats going on it ...What do you guys think of the GT3071r with .64 rear housing? would it be too small?

Hey mates, Im not sure what the rules are about posting links to other forums so I will hold off on that, but I just wanted to let everyone know theres a group buy going on on a different forum (in the US) that you guys who are looking for good cheap engine management can benefit from. Also Im in no way affiliated with nistune or anything, just wanted to help my fellow mates out!! Ill get in touch with a mod and see if linking is ok

So being the genius I am, changed the timing belt and decided to leave the plastic front cover off so I could see my cool greddy belt. Now my car wont start and ive pretty much narrowed it down to the cas, which got damaged due to not spacing it out when I took the cover off to account for the thickness. The cas wheel was bent when I took it off and metal shavings were all over it so im guessin its stuffed. If you can please help me out and send me a CAS for a reasonable price please contact me at [email protected] I hardly get on here anymore but will try and periodically check to see if anyones replied. I appreciate the help mates, Ive been working on this car for over a year and thought id have it on the road soon but alas my stupidy wont let it happen. Cheers

Hi mates, Looking to purchase a used cluster, please email me or PM me for any leads. Any KM's ok, even mildly rough condition is ok Please let me know what you guys have! email : [email protected] Thanks!

Hi mates, Im over here in the US, and just recently did the Neo6 swap from a stagea into my car. I was looking to get the gauges running corectly so I bought a cluster from overseas. The cluster came with the pigtails but I have had some trouble finding a pin out diagram. Can anyone point me to a diagram outlining each wire and its function? Im pretty good with diagrams usually, and wiring, if someone could get me anything helpful, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

gave the pin power and looks like its working, pin 48 is putting out 5 volts to the tps as it should. Now the only thing wrong is my maf wiring seems to be wrong. The car runs without it plugged in, but as soon as i plug it in the engine starts to sputter and die

Haha I am actually located in Texas, in the US. I went out and tested the voltages that the TPS is sending back to the computer and its something like 3v at close and almost 8 at full throttle. this is with the car on and engine running. I tried adjusting the tps down but I only got it to send at a minimum of 2.6v at close throttle. Isnt the tps supposed to see 12v on the + wire?

been working on a the engine trying to get it wired up correctly. I have got it started now and it seems like it doesn't want to run right. Problems: very low idle, almost dies gauge is showing little/no vacuum (this might have to do with my homemade vacuum block) running super rich doesnt want to rev up When I unplug the maf it runs much better, idle raises up and it revs much more smoothly but stops at 2500 rpm like it should. As soon as i plug the maf back in it drops down again to 300 rpm or so and wants to die again. I was thinking maybe the maf wiring or maf itself are bad? what would cause it to want to die and not idle?

Im pretty tired of trying to get this thing running, and im sure everyones tired of seeing my posts. Im just gonna give it 12v switched on pin 31 and see what happens. Lets hope I dont burn up the computer. On the other hand, I adapted a GTR intake manifold with ITB's onto my rb25 so if I do get this thing running, expect some posts and pics on that little project (assuming the thing doesn't leak).

right mate, I remembered to go back and reread. I decided to dig deeper in my loom for a green with orange stripe and couldn't find anything inside the cabin. I then went to the other side of the firewall towards the engine, and found a wire that appeared to be heading into the ecu but was cut short. It is a green with orange stripe, with silver marks every 3 or 4 inches. Can anyone confirm that this is the wire? As it sits, there isnt any 12v ignition going to that wire. Maybe someone pulled the wire out of the loom and cut it out? should i be able to see any kind of damage or knicks on the plastic connector if someone did indeed de-pin the plug? If this is the wire that should have led to pin 31 Im presuming I can put 12v ignition feed on the wiring and put it back on pin 31. Can anyone crack open their kickpanel and confirm the silver marks on the wire?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us this is the joint connector I was talking about. 43 goes to the ECU and provides ground to the wires on the (-) side. on the positive side of the clip on pin 4,5,6,7 i should see 12v. 48 is listed as power supply. checked the wires on this side and this fed ignition to the TPS, didnt have time to check where exactly the other 2 wires went. but they are all grey with a blue stripe. I have a picture of the actual joint connector im talking about just in case anyones confused. Its brown, ill upload it tonight. the joint connector is def hooked up, no wires are cut and its shouldve worked as is. 2 questions: -does the ecu provide the ground for these sensors? I didnt see any of the (-) side of the joint connector going to the chassis. this means that the ecu grounds this connector. -since 48 isnt providing 12v, can I cut 48 from the ecu and just provide my own 12v switched. in all i think it comes back to pin 31, which is listed as ignition power supply. Since my plug has nothing there, maybe the pin was pulled out or something? could this pin be the reason why all the wires on the joint connector is not getting any voltage? I looked super hard at the plug and under close scrutiny, it seems there is a really small nick in the plastic surrounding pin31. Is it likely the pin was removed and then the wire removed from the loom? Anyone know what color the wire should be? I can try and hunt the wire by its wire color.

that makes sense, Ill go back and look it over. but to be clear, its possible that pin 43 isnt grounding my sensors causing them not to work? I thought the tps saw 12v, sent a signal back to the ecu, and third wire is a ground (pin 43). so this means that one of the wires on the cts is a ground and the other a signal feed to the ecu? the sensor never sees above signal voltage then correct?

i see, 5 volts you say? The thing is im a little confused to as how the ecu sees this signal. Pin 48 seems to feed power to a + block from wich a bunch of wires come off, including those that run to the coolant temp sensor and TPS. I would think that the computer feeds 12v to the CTS, and then as temp rises and resistance inside the sensor decreases the voltages sent back to the ecu are read respectively. On the diagram though, it shows one of the CTS wires as being grounded and the other pink wire going to a pin on the ecu labeled as CTS signal. Can you confirm wich case is right? I hooked up a multimeter to test voltages and nothing is registered on either the TPS or CTS. I believe the wiring continuous, so the problem lies near the computer side of the loom. somewhere there is a ground or + missing causing both the TPS, CTS, boost pressure sensor etc to not work. I think their is probably a common wire somewhere no?